Wax and gun bores

 OK, some of you will consider me a few pellets short of a tin, but, I have something I'd like to share, and maybe even get some to thinking/doing.

A trick I learned during my military career, from military gunsmiths, was/is to limit as much as possible,the use of grease and/or oil on firearms. This came about after numerous failures of our sniper guns during desert ops. For those of you who've been to those type of environments, you know it's not "sand" as many would think...but image "grit" like baby powder....and you have an idea of the type of conditions a gun endures.

OK, more to the point, for a lot of years now, I have been using wax on my guns instead of oils.... and only using grease where absolutely necessary. Wax lasts longer, protects better, and most importantly, does not draw dirt or dust. What type? The simplest thing to say is that just about any type of automotive wax is good, with the exception of those waxes that contain silicon. Silicon waxes trap moisture... usually between the wax and what you seek to protect....that's bad. My personal favorite for years has been Mothers Caranuba Cleaner Wax (paste). You can find it at Wally World, and just about any auto supply store. For about $12, you get enough for years of use.

During sniper training I learned the following.....the gunsmiths would thoroughly clean new gun barrels, and then, using a bore mop, wax the bore(s) with pure Caranuba wax. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then run a couple of clean patches down the bore. Then, after 50-100 rounds, do it all again, and then with each successive cleaning. One unexpected benefit that we found..... after the "break in" shots, a waxed bore produced significantly more accuracy than one that was not waxed. In more recent years, the trend has been to the synthetic waxes. I've been retired for a while now, but for the past 20+ years have been doing the wax thing to all my private firearms, especially those that see harsh conditions such as my waterfowl guns.

I carried this bore waxing into airguns, and I personally believe that it reduces the break in period/number of shot, and that after that break in period it increases accuracy. I stumbled on this by accident. I had a Gamo Swarm Whisper that had to returned, which had what I considered terrible accuracy. I had cleaned it out of the box but NOT waxed it. The replacement, I did everything the same, EXCEPT I WAXED THE BORE... and that guns accuracy is night and day better than the one it replaced! So for me, I'm thinking that waxing the bore had something to do with the better accuracy. Throwing this out for opinions, and possibly to see if other have done, or would be willing to, and report their findings/thoughts.
 
In my AG tuning business as well personal guns have been WAXING bores for years now and will 100% agree with Ed and his sharing of this technique.

I use Trewax which is a HARD wax for flooring etc heavy in carnuba. * Bore must be Clean clean clean before applying IMO.



Great post !!
 
My biggest takeaway from waxing the bores of my AGs for a while has been that it reduces the number of fouling shots required after cleaning to get the POI to stabilize…often times fewer than 5 pellets are necessary.

It’s not so obvious to me that it extends cleaning intervals or that it makes cleaning easier when the time comes, however that may be because they’ve all gotten a regimen of J-B bore paste followed by bore bright. Wax or no wax, cleaning is quick and easy.
 
Never heard of lubing barrels with wax. Very interesting.

Has anyone tried the newer car spray waxes ?

all of the wax mfgs have them and I have used on my car with good results. Would not be going back to a paste wax.

They are all marketed as "ceramic" type waxes to compete with the ceramic paint treatments($$$) which some persons apply to their new paint jobs.

Personally I get a good 4-5 weeks of water beading and much easier washing with the turtle wax ICE which is about standard for them all.
 
Whew! I can breath a sigh of relief! I was expecting someone to send the Twinky-mobile to pick me up....or to get haggled to death. :)

I'm fairly new to these forums, so wasn't sure what I'd encounter with my post.... but now I'm sold on these forums!


Thanks for bringing up the topic, Ed

In my experience in the forums (coming up on a year ) there's not much (if any) evidence of folks getting all bent out of shape over a new idea.

That said.

Once the barrel has been cleaned thoroughly; what does the actual waxing procedure entail?

Thanks

Ed (also)


 
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I apply the wax the same way I clean the bore, with a string trimmer line pull-through. I just coat a patch with wax and pull it through 5 times, loading a little more on the patch each time to ensure it gets distributed along the full length of the barrel. Then I come back 30min later and pull a clean, dry patch through a couple of times to burnish it into the surface.
 
Great post, Ed, and thanks for your services. I’ve taken all of NervousTriggers barrel doctoring advice and put a twist of my own in the end, with a mirror finish wax coat of Rotex metal wax. Nothing but great results here.



Edit- said the wrong word for the wax. It’s ROLITE.



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Renaissance Wax, the best there is.

It has been used for many many years by top curators of irreplaceable collections in fine museums. 

Have you ever looked at a gun that has been loved, lubed, put in a safe, and rusted anyway?

The process works something like this;

Almost all lubes whether petroleum or otherwize evaporate over time.

While the gun is "wet" it attracts fine dust.

Next, the lube evaporates leaving a fine layer of dust behind.

Finally the dust attracts moisture, = RUST!

Wax, on the other hand, once dry, REPELS dust, does not evaporate and never attracts moisture. 

In the worst case, if you overdo it you would need a good wipedown before use. No harm, no foul! 


 
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Once the barrel has been cleaned thoroughly; what does the actual waxing procedure entail?

I clean with Goo-Gone, then follow that up with several patches with alcohol (or acetone if you're careful). If using alcohol, either let it dry or run a couple of clean/dry patches to speed the process. Acetone evaporates almost instantly (just don't get it on any plastic, or wood/finishes). Then I use a proper caliber bore mop, slathered in wax, and run it down the bore, from breech to muzzle a couple of times....then let it sit for a few moments, and follow that up with several clean/dry patches.....DONE! Be careful about using waxes with a lot of solvents in them! Some waxes will produce the same results as dumping oil in the bore= dieseling. 

I’ve taken all of NervousTriggers barrel doctoring advice

I'm not familiar with that one..... please fill me in!

Have you ever looked at a gun that has been loved, lubed, put in a safe, and rusted anyway?

The process works something like this;

Almost all lubes whether petroleum or otherwize evaporate over time.

While the gun is "wet" it attracts fine dust.

Next, the lube evaporates leaving a fine layer of dust behind.

Finally the dust attracts moisture, = RUST!

Wax, on the other hand, once dry, REPELS dust, does not evaporate and never attracts moisture. 

In the worst case, if you overdo it you would need a good wipedown before use. No harm, no foul!

GOLDEN WORDS!!!! That should be the preface to anything every written on gun/firearms care!!
 
I will add ... Just a PULL THREW MOP / PATCH is not really the ideal way to get a good waxing. All that will do is a wax smearing having very little uniformity and little to no BURNISHING effect of getting the wax into the microscopic pores of the metals surface.

Ideally you load up a cotton patch with wax & ( sometimes double patch for a very firm bore fit ) and using a ROUND Jag tip & cleaning rod force the patch into bore and work it back and forth in 4-6" strokes working further up the barrel from breech. Occasionally pushing wax patch out and rewaxing or replacing with fresh waxed patch starting again where you left off until you have worked the Full length of barrel with 10-20 back & forth strokes. That done ... do a single wax patch push threw and out muzzle.

Set barrel out in the sun, warm place etc for at least an hour to have the waxes carrier evaporate off and wax harden on the bores surface.

IMO .. zero need to dry patch it after this ... SHOOT IT !!! Any excess wax on the bores surface will be taken out after a few shots. End result is a bore that has all the microscopic voids and imperfections filled / smoothed with wax and burnished in quite well.



Scott S