I was wondering what is the highest temp I should let my compressor get to before shutting it off to cool down when filling my big bottle (SCBA 45 min tank) My temp gauge is in C not F.
What is the hi temp shut off point for a Yong Heng compressor.
- Thread starter nivlag
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Well, one thing I know for sure is that these little fellows don't like heat. I've heard of people taking them up to 8o plus on the F. My thoughts , I like to stay no more than 40 F MAX I been running for over two years. I blew one up because I ran it like a lot were saying . Since I stay down in temp, I 've had no troubles. Take your time filling . You probbaly have more of that ,than money for a nother compressor.
I change oil often and stop the compressor at 55. Stop as in open the bleed valves and let the moisture out for 20-30 seconds and turn off the power. No issues yet besides tightening up a few parts to fix some leaks.
thermal management is very important and I like to use 2 bucket method instead of recycling water in a single bucket, this prolonged the run time by 20-30% without ice.
thermal management is very important and I like to use 2 bucket method instead of recycling water in a single bucket, this prolonged the run time by 20-30% without ice.
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I have had mine at over 100C three times, it smoked it was so hot but it still werqs. Think I just got lucky. That is why I bought my spare which I ran without oil for a couple of minutes after replacing a second stage piston that had no locktight from the factory. 
My Bad but it still runs fine as well. They are not indestructible but they are pretty durable.
My Bad but it still runs fine as well. They are not indestructible but they are pretty durable.Upvote 0
How long did it work for you? I have used crushed or cubed ice and an external fan cooling the heads for a long time now and that will keep it at around 50 C max. Mine is over 2 years old.
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Nine never gets to 50c. I cut up a Champion Sweat Shirt into strips, wrapped both hot lines in multiple layers and use pull ties to secure them. I then inject Distilled water into the wrappings (which does not evaporate nearly as fast) and keep an eye on the temp. I also use the 5 gal bucket with a 1 gal frozen jug in it.
The lines stay cool enough that you can barely feel any heat in them whatsoever. What a difference!
Of course I use proper High Pressure Oil (Ester based) in it as well. Much quieter!
Knife
The lines stay cool enough that you can barely feel any heat in them whatsoever. What a difference!
Of course I use proper High Pressure Oil (Ester based) in it as well. Much quieter!
Knife
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What oil do you use? Everyone says royal purple and I don't like it and went back to transmission fluid(hydraulic fluid with a ton of detergent) which seemed to be working better than the super thick Royal purple. The compressor sounds a little faster with Alphabet org.
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Mine worked for probably about a year. I ran mobile’s top shelf iso46 in mine. That was what they were recommending at the time. They have since changed that recommendation, but the high side on mine got to where it wouldn’t go above like 2k . That ISO 46 oil turns green after a while, not good.
I would take Knifemaker at his word and run oil meant for actual dive compressor. That’s what I do actually, because I bought a Coltri, but you can take advice from guys who have gotten lucky or guys who haven’t. I had a second yh style fail for no good reason, with few hours. I ran it cool and used good oil. Haven’t torn into it yet but going to see if I can fix it and give it to a friend. I bought the Coltri because I got tired of the hassle. Man is it nice topping off 88cf bottles in 4 minutes from 3k to 4650.
I would take Knifemaker at his word and run oil meant for actual dive compressor. That’s what I do actually, because I bought a Coltri, but you can take advice from guys who have gotten lucky or guys who haven’t. I had a second yh style fail for no good reason, with few hours. I ran it cool and used good oil. Haven’t torn into it yet but going to see if I can fix it and give it to a friend. I bought the Coltri because I got tired of the hassle. Man is it nice topping off 88cf bottles in 4 minutes from 3k to 4650.
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I've been running mine to 55, and stopping there. The pump should run cooler, but I have some interesting stuff going on in my crank-case, lol. (It's a long story)
If it's a long run, I'll wheel the cart over to the sink, and run cool tap water thru it
If it's a long run, I'll wheel the cart over to the sink, and run cool tap water thru it
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Both Royal P. and 46 hydraulic oil are dead wrong and will eventually if not sooner cause a dead compressor. Y.H. has removed the suggesting of using the H #46 for their compressors and now suggest Mobil Rarus 827, which is a very expensive high pressure compressor oil Which neither of the two mentioned here are . Not eve close to real high pressure compressor oil. (I checked the reed valves after only 1 hr. using royal p. they were carboned)!
This from Alkin. If you don't use proper oil, the reed valves will leak causing major problems. Coltri, Aardi, Bauer, Alkin all say the same. Period!
Şekil (Alkin)2-Compressor Unit W31 Series compressors are design and manufactured with intercooler serpentine located between 1st -2 nd Stage cylinders, and aftercooler located at the 3rd Stage outlet. There are water separators at the outlet of 2nd Stage intercooler and at outlet of 3rd Stage aftercooler. Water Separators are connected to auto drain valves that periodically drains the condensate water. The duration and frequency of opening of these drain valves are determined by the time relay located in the electric panel. (Please see Check section.) This time relay can be set for both functions. There is a Safety Valve at each stage to prevent an unwanted increase in pressure resulted from a problem in valves or any other parts. It must be periodically checked that, these safety valves are working properly and they keep their set pressure values. (Please see Maintenance Table.) W31 Series compressors are equipped with stainless valves at each stage that are designed to maintain the airflow without any loss of pressure. They are easy to maintain and replace. The maintenance of valves are especially important as they are the main parts in proper and problem-free working of compressors. Lubricants not approved by ALKIN can prevent valves from working properly due to the accumulation of carbon on springs and washers. Valves not working properly will cause an increase in working temperature and the deterioration of lubricant, thus in return, will further break down the valves. Max working pressure is 350 bar and, it is dangerous and strictly prohibited to set a value higher than 350 bar. ALKIN will not be held liable for any problems resulting from acting otherwise. Working temperature range of the compressor is –10/+50 ºC.
You will notice that the temp on the Alkin is substantially lower than the Y.H. Multiplying the issue many times over.
Here is a pic from a user on the GTA back in 2019 using improper oil. He states that there is very little carbon buildup. I completely disagree. It is terrible. More than enough of the very abrasive carbon to destroy both the integrity of the high side rings, high cylinder walls, and completely prevent the reed valve from fully closing. and the carbon ring is from the low side entering the hi side. Which will be much higher temp again. This in turn puts pressure back in the cylinder. (Back feeds), and causes the compressor to take much longer to both fill and heat issues.
If it gets bad enough, it can completely blow the crank case cover off the compressor catastrophically. Which has has a record of doing exactly that. Very dangerous!
At best it can cause aa ruined compressor. At worst, injured or worse operator.
Knife
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Nuvair high pressure oil, Mobil Rarus 827 Coltri 100 or the new version, Bauer oil, there are many avaliable.
To get a start,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOBIL-827-Rarus-12oz-Oil-4500-PSI-Extreme-HIGH-Pressure-Yong-Heng-Air-Compressor/274608618484?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Nuvair has both their and Coltri oils. they have theirs on sale if bought by the Gal. It is 28 usd a quart, however they have it on sale for 64 usd a gal. Less than Royal Purple price for REAL High Pressure Compressor Oil!
https://www.nuvair.com/nuvair-751.html
To get a start,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOBIL-827-Rarus-12oz-Oil-4500-PSI-Extreme-HIGH-Pressure-Yong-Heng-Air-Compressor/274608618484?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Nuvair has both their and Coltri oils. they have theirs on sale if bought by the Gal. It is 28 usd a quart, however they have it on sale for 64 usd a gal. Less than Royal Purple price for REAL High Pressure Compressor Oil!
https://www.nuvair.com/nuvair-751.html
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I have another question. I know a question in a question. If you have the temp in control How long do you run the compressor when filling a 45min SCBA tank ( 66cu ft )?
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Mine will fill a 1 hr. bottle in under 20 minutes, however i only drain my bottle down to 34-3500 psi. and stop at 43oo psi as recommended by Y.H.
I need to take pics of the trick I learned to reduce temp of the unit. It never reaches 50c.
Knife
I need to take pics of the trick I learned to reduce temp of the unit. It never reaches 50c.
Knife
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I've had my yong heng for 5 years now been using #46 oil in it, use wet water treatment and I use frozen 2 liter pop bottles in my 5 gallon to help cool it.
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I agree with knifemaker, heat and carbon are the enemy of these little compressors, keep both under control and your unit will run for a long time. I use good oil, I limit my run time to 10 minutes, I purge accumulated moisture on the high side every 5 minutes, and I monitor the temperature. I also run an additional fan over the head for additional cooling. My temp stabilizes at about 50c but even with that I still limit the run time to about 10 minutes.
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I run mine with an external fan as well and I've ran it without the fan. The fan makes A LOT of difference, and does so right where the highest heat is produced-on the high pressure head. I've also noticed a slightly lower temperature (or usable temperature in high ambient temps) using smaller ice-either crushed or smaller cubes. During summer heat outside I use small crushed ice held near the pump by a porous barrier with the water return at the other end of the reservoir. It does make a difference. Absolutely necessary? Probably not as any good ice amount will help. But if you have smaller cubes available then it can lower the temp a bit more. Good high pressure compressor lube seems to be a no brainer and has been advised for a long time by most.
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