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4 models in and still having the same issues. I doubt i will ever own an impact. Too many headaches for the price. Definitely agree with @Vetmx it does sound like a few of my ex GFs! Too old for that BS now.

Well here is one, but I don't know the pressure rating. Doesn't appear to have any o-ring grooves either. The bottle has the groove in the neck, so that side would seal. Dunno about the m16x1.5 side.

Exactly. So the option as it sits, is to get the adapter or the altaros regulator. The altaros is m18x1.5 female and male, so no need for an adapter between. Then you add a bottle, and it's going to get a little long. Maybe the zelos won't look too bad because it's already 4 inches longer than...

Which is exactly what's on the gun already. To change that section over to a regulator, you'd need a regulator with the m16x1.5 female on the output side, and an m18x1.5 male on the input/bottle side. I can't find one when I search online.

Guns are like women. If they're ugly, I won't touch them.

No, the raw silver piece has the m16x1.5 male threads. The adapter with the foster and gauge has an m18x1.5 male stubborn for the bottle to mount on. So that's male m16x1.5 to adapter, m18x1.5 male to bottle.

Possibly stainless then.

I didn't stick a magnet on it, but I figured it was aluminum.

Notos or Urban would be a good first choice. Both under 300 bucks. You could get the gun, a hand pump, and a scope that's worthy of your shooting distance, all for the price of a new marauder. The Urban will stack pellets all day no problem, and has a little smaller more hand pump friendly air...

The fill adapter on the gun where bottle mounts is m18x1.5. The raw aluminum piece between gun and adapter is m16x1.5.

I dunno, but that's what's needed. Only other option is to go m18x1.5 female to m18x1.5 male, but it will add the adapter length and regulator length. It would also look awful IMO. Wait... that's not right either. The adapter he bought will work. It will go on the m18x1.5 male bottle stub on...

Your Mrod probably has a green mountain barrel in it. Those were much better than the gen 2 25 cal barrels.

Those power valves are worth the money if you are after power. It's not the most prettiness machined piece, but it flst out works. I installed the valve and did the porting, and changed nothing else. I hit 112 fpe when I was hitting 68-70 fpe prior.

No, that's a defect. Maybe try and file or dremel it down. It should definitely be a full o-ring groove around, not bumps or irregularities.

If you plan to keep the stock valve for now, I would at bare minimum put in a lighter spring so the valve opens easier. Not really much can be done to the stock valve that will do much to the 357. I'd think the power valve kit on a 357 could hit in the 130-150 fpe range. Going to need lots of...

The frame of the gun, where all 'the action' happens lol. The part between the valve and barrel needs to be opened up. The valve kits comes with a jig to open it up to 6.35mm/.25". A 357 could benefit up to 7.5mm without having pellet tipping issues. That's when the port is too big and the...

Did you open the transfer area in the action to match? If not, it will be the limiting factor now. Also, the valve and poppet are restrictive compared to the slug valve kit.

I was going to suggest that as well, but the tank may be too thin to tap threads reliably. Would probably need to be threaded through into the adapter so it makes it more of an anchored post than a set screw.

You need an M16x1.5 FEMALE to G1/2-14 FEMALE. That adapter isn't going to work for what you're trying to do.

I added 40 fpe in my 30 cal from doing the valve and porting job. I now have 6.5" less of barrel, and I'm still hitting my old stock 70 fpe but also 50 bar less on the reg.