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Glad that worked out, they at least need to change the directions and recommend something more than a few drops of silicone every 500 shots.. With how how much force it was taking and how badly it would bind, impressive that a little paste got it operating smoothly... I'm glad, I really didn't...

I just took everything apart again, wanted to put a bit of loctite on everything... reassembled, and its smooth. Now I just need to site back in; the scope mounts are such trash and not in alignment. Just one more complaint. As far as Moly Paste - wear gloves, and you just need a little...

I'd normally agree with that statement, but per the Umarex notos manual, they suggest the RWS Chamber lube that is 100% silicone for the "surfaces around the bolt" ...

I was highly skeptical, but my moly paste just arrived.. I polished the firing pin, and knocked off any burrs I felt dragging. That alone made no long term difference... I applied such a light layer of moly paste to the firing pin, especially on the back, and on the inside of the frame... I...

I think as you put pressure on the firing pin, your then putting pressure on the hammer bushing that also binds up some. Plus it would just cause it to cant, and cause it not to slide smoothly with fired.. making another issue.. That bolt had loctite on it.. probably the only one I've found...

This is one of many points that it binding.. I can take it apart knock down the burrs, assemble.. get 3-5 smooth cocks, starts to get gritty.. By 10 its locked up I took the front bushing out, and just sliding the firing pin can start to get gritty at the back of the action.. but doesn't lock...

Agree 100% (I was calling it the firing pin too, no idea the real term) ... If I manipulate the arms on the firing pin, it sometimes will free up the movement as long as the hammer spring is not installed,.. too much slop in those levers arms, they slightly twist at the pin.. once back together...

I changed my mind on what is binding.. Looking over it again, its the front shaft of the firing pin, binding on the front silver bushing. The cause? hard to pin point.. There is a bit of tolerance as the pin slides through, and that bushing also has play, can rock left and right. I think its...

I do have it.. just found that out.

I got mine last July, this was at a time, when they were all backordered, but found one in stock..

I ended up tearing the gun down. I have less than 1 tin of pellets fired. Cleaned everything up, lubed it... My pins were all seated, but also easily came out, but with the gun apart the firing pin still seizes and I can see its not the pin... There was some slop in the pivot on the cocking...

I started having the same issue.. My cocking was never smooth, but it would always cock.. now it gets to the point where it just wont budge. I took out the hammer spring and noticed there was some burring on the mushroom part that the hammer spring seats in. I initially thought it was that part...

@Coinwa The Notos is a real PITA. I added an additional .47 inch riser to my set up, because I wanted to bridge the front and back. I thought that would give me a more secure mount that overtime would not shift, and allow me to bring the scope back more with less stress on the front rail. But...

@Pfddi With the 0 MOA I was at the max which I think was -98 at 18 yds and still not zerod. With the 20 Moa which added an additional 1/2" of height I'm now "-11" on the Y

Gotcha, that would probably give me a little bit more, but still not as much as i'd like. I already have the mount over hanging, and the UTG riser overhanging.. I need to just go ahead and add a small riser to the rear so I can bridge the front and back of the gun. That would aid in...

@brawler1588 Here are a few pictures of my setup. By no means perfect, but without spending more money on rail parts, it works. Ideally I would like it mounted a bit higher, setback just a little bit more and have the back rail of the gun be used to help stabilize and distribute the...

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I've been only using the scope in wither B/W or Thermal - so these comments pertain to those viewing modes - I have adjusted the rear diopter, I just find that if I get the reticle perfectly sharp, the menu items up top or time bottom right, are a bit out...

20 MOA Riser from UTG did the trick..

While waiting for my air compressor and some other accessories, I went out to scan my yard for rats last night. The pictures are screen grabs from some video taken with the scope. I was scanning brush that ranged from 15 to 25 yards away. Due to this, some of the focus is not perfect. The rats...

Thank you for that advice. I have a 20 moa riser arriving tomorrow, but if I need to fine tune I'll look at that route. The day/night lens sits much higher on the thermal compared to the non thermal... Maybe they built in some pitch to help align the thermal and day/night, but either way I...