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So you're saying harder than hand tight?

Yes, mine is brass. I guess I'm springing for a steel one. I'm fighting with a leak with it right now; loses about 100 bar overnight. It would be a good time to replace that fitting anyway.

My Maxxim likes the Gamo Red Fire pellets the best, but they're too expensive for punching holes in paper. Any other Gamo pellet I tried ranged from 'mediocre' to 'totally sucked'. I do have a tin of the lightweight alloy pellets that I fire just to hear that supersonic *CRACK*.

I have a .177 Maxxim, Gen 2, and it has the same problem mentioned above; lots of feed failures. It shoots okay once you take the Swarm mechanism off. The scope that comes with it is kind of crappy, but I guess I shouldn't be upset considering the price.

Was out on vacation last week, where airguns don't go. When I got back, the gun was empty. After refilling it and letting it sit overnight I found out that it was losing about 10 bar an hour. I thought that my monkeying with the regulator knob or one of the gauges to let the air out was the...

Bad chronograph?

If I wanted to hunt with it, I'd spring for a smaller CF tank. A lot of that gun's weight is in that tank.

I bet they stuck a regulator gauge on at the factory by mistake. Manual says 250.

I'm just target shooting off a rest, so I don't mind the weight.

Photos. The gun, disassembled. Note: 'User Manuel'. The plenum and regulator, The brass knob is the regulator adjuster. The hammer spring adjuster. I had it as low as possible, but it's a strong spring. The gun, assembled and with moderator attached. After a little more messing...

Good idea with the shroud. I just guessed where it went and it looked close enough for me. The trigger as-is is fine for me. I filled it yesterday with no issues, with my normal Foster fill hose.

Will put some pics up after I zero it in and take a few shots.

I decided to go ahead and buy a Rainson Edge X from Ares Tactical. I purchased the 'Dr. Russ Hunting Special', in synthetic. I haven't had a chance to shoot it much beyond some chrono testing, so this is kind of between an unboxing and a real review. What came in the box: The gun, set up for...

I guess the Saber Tactical rail replacement is a standard picatinny. The width is the same as the old Avenger rail. Installing the Buck Rail conversion seemed to move things around enough to require re-zeroing the gun.

My Avenger has that same problem - I need to raise the rear ring somehow. Changing the stock from plastic to wood to Buck Rail and back to wood didn't help. The casting looked okay, but was obviously a little out of whack. I changed from the factory rail to a Saber Tactical picatinny rail...

I don't know. I don't think there is any difference besides the reg.

I asked Ares' last night via email, and they said they had both in stock.

If I get one, I'll get the one with the external regulator. Ares has them. From my Avenger experience, they are the same; you can increase with the knob, but you have to be empty of compressed air to decrease or else you'll damage the regulator. Not your problem, since you're disassembling it...

Thanks for the response! I'm interested, but am still curious about a few things. So, in the diagram, #125 is the fat flathead screw that is captive by #124. You take out #125 (or remove #124 through some sort of magic), remove #126 and put #138 back into #125. Now #125 goes back and forth...

Is there a way to adjust the hammer spring? I'm looking at the manual and it looks like there's a LONG spring with a small grub screw on the end,