110V vs 220V

[skohl]

Most of the compressors come in the 2 choices above for electricity. What are the pros and con of using one over another? Its easy to just plug into a normal 110 outlet but is it the best long term choice? I follow the compressor forum very closely, but I don't think I've seen any discussion / expertise on this. Thanks

 

[Eaglebeak]

A 110 V device draws twice the amps as a 220-250 V device of similar output. If you have access to a 220 V outlet, I recommend going with that.

 

[Ezana4CE]

@skohl 110V is what’s commonly used for electrical appliances in the USA aside from water heaters, electric stoves, and clothes dryers unless you get into commercial or industrial equipment. More foreign countries use 220V as the standard voltage as we use 110V. Because the Internet has a global reach, manufactures and distributers market both in attempt to cater to a broader consumer base. I believe that’s primarily why you tend to see both options when shopping for compressors online. 

 

[GBGUNNER]

Generally unless you are filling large tanks daily for hours at a time I would stick with 110v. Unless you are purchasing a 220v compressor drawing between 25 and 50 amps and planning to run it daily for hours . Your savings wouldn't justify going to 220v. You need to know power is billed in WATTS (kilo watts), NOT Amps. . 

 

[GeneT]

@skohl 110V is what’s commonly used for electrical appliances in the USA aside from water heaters, electric stoves, and clothes dryers unless you get into commercial or industrial equipment. More foreign countries use 220V as the standard voltage as we use 110V. Because the Internet has a global reach, manufactures and distributers market both in attempt to cater to a broader consumer base. I believe that’s primarily why you tend to see both options when shopping for compressors online.

High load items like water heaters, stoves and dryers are 220V in the U.S. - I've never seen one that wasn't. The main power coming to your house is 220V and is 'split' inside your breaker box into 110V or kept as 220V (that's why those 220V breakers span two 'slots').

As previously mentioned, for any given load, you trade voltage for current - more voltage means less current required. AND if you check specs, some of the time the 220V machine has a higher output than the 110V machine - a definite plus. The only downside to a 220V compressor (in the U.S.) is that you don't have as many outlets in your house wired for it, and there are multiple outlet 'standards' so once wired for your place it may not work at your friend's house even if he's willing to pull the dryer out for you.



GsT

 

[Ezana4CE]

GeneT

As previously mentioned, for any given load, you trade voltage for current - more voltage means less current required. AND if you check specs, some of the time the 220V machine has a higher output than the 110V machine - a definite plus. The only downside to a 220V compressor (in the U.S.) is that you don't have as many outlets in your house wired for it, and there are multiple outlet 'standards' so once wired for your place it may not work at your friend's house even if he's willing to pull the dryer out for you.



GsT

@GeneT So that I understand you correctly, are you saying that depending upon the specs, a 220V compressor would give one an advantage over a 110V because it would perform faster fills? If so, would it wear out faster than a 110V compressor assuming that they are the same build, but wired for different voltages?

 

[Scotchmo]

If the compressor under consideration is 1500 watts or less, than the prevalence of common 110v outlets in the USA might make 110v a good choice. Much over that wattage will require a specialized 110v circuit, so 220v might then be your better choice.

 

[GeneT]

GeneT

As previously mentioned, for any given load, you trade voltage for current - more voltage means less current required. AND if you check specs, some of the time the 220V machine has a higher output than the 110V machine - a definite plus. The only downside to a 220V compressor (in the U.S.) is that you don't have as many outlets in your house wired for it, and there are multiple outlet 'standards' so once wired for your place it may not work at your friend's house even if he's willing to pull the dryer out for you.



GsT

@GeneT So that I understand you correctly, are you saying that depending upon the specs, a 220V compressor would give one an advantage over a 110V because it would perform faster fills? If so, would it wear out faster than a 110V compressor assuming that they are the same build, but wired for different voltages?

To be clear, all else being equal, the two should fill at the same rate. BUT, I see some manufacturer's specs that show a higher CFM for 220V Units than 110V units indicating that there is a performance improvement - so the bigger compressor is likely being 'allowed' to draw more than 1/2 the current of the equivalent 110V unit. As for wear - I can only speculate. It might be that $$/CFM remain constant, which is still fewer hours on the 220V unit, or it may be that hours are the important number, in which case $$/CFM is lower on the 220V unit. Alkin's 220V W31 compressor produces more CFM than the 110V version, and scheduled maintenance for both is 1000 hours, so there's probably very little difference in practice. 

GsT

 

[Humdinger]

What most new compressor shoppers don't seem to realize is that you just can't plug a 3 HP compressor motor into your typical 15 amp 110V home outlets like it's a lamp. If you are getting a 2 piston Chinese Tuxing, Carette, or Yong Heng, it can work. If you are thinking about any high performance "dive" compressor, then the 220 volt option is the best choice by far.

Most large faster filling compressors that offer110V versions draw in excess of 20 amps which 99% of household circuits are not capable of handling. A 220V compressor typically draws 15 or less amps. A 220V compressor may require an electrician to install a dedicated outlet, but the compressor runs easily and you aren't popping breakers and overheating home wiring trying to run a compressor on 110V with a high amp draw.

 

[lewilbar]

Thanks Humdinger! I hope it's a non issue with modern wiring. Old wiring and 15A breakers could easily have difficulty with start up loads and heat with the 15 amps or more at start up. But I just ordered one in 110. Our old house has modern wiring and 20 A circuits. I don't share circuits when I'm running things like a compressor. I hope that will do. I have 220 in my garage if it comes to that.

I haven't seen inside these but do any of you guys who own one know if the transformer is multi tap or are they delivered with a power transformer specific to each destination country? If the transformer has the appropriate taps, you can probably convert back and forth.

These things seem fussy but I'm eager to find out how it all goes when mine gets here. and appreciate all the discussion. 

 

[Goodtogo]

I have a 110v Daystate compressor and the stats say it draws 15.1 amps? Every 110v breaker in my electrical boxes(not counting the doubled 220Vs) are stamped 20 amps.



Have a nice day..... Bob

 

[Deacon_Blues]

In order to run my Coltri MCH- 6 I had an electrician install a 220v outlet in my basement (there was plenty of room for the additional breaker in my box). It cost less than $300 and took about an hour and a half to complete. One should not choose 110 over 220, solely because they are uncertain about the electrical work.

 

[ksfastman]

Go with 220 if you have it available.

 

[oldsparky]

A breaker job is to protect your wiring. Amperage is directly proportional to heat. If you attempt to use a 20 amp breaker on 14 gauge wire for example your wire is not properly protected and will overheat before tripping the breaker. You can burn your wires by oversizing you're breaker and or cause a fire. Compressor motors should have their own overcurrent protection to protect the motor. Your house breaker should not be relied on for motor overcurrent. 

 

[Deacon_Blues]

To clarify, all new wiring was run specifically for 220, including the special outlet.

 

[knifemaker]

Just remember, many 220 compressors are made in Europe and many of them are on a 50 cycle design and our 220 is 60 cycle. It can cause issues with over heating the motor and higher rpm. 



Knife

 

[Scotchmo]

Just remember, many 220 compressors are made in Europe and many of them are on a 50 cycle design and our 220 is 60 cycle. It can cause issues with over heating the motor and higher rpm. 



Knife

The Coltri compressors are made in Italy but their motors for the USA market are rated 60hz:

 

[bdmoody]

Alkin compressors are made overseas and are 60hz for US market

 

[Chickenthief]

Just remember, many 220 compressors are made in Europe and many of them are on a 50 cycle design and our 220 is 60 cycle. It can cause issues with over heating the motor and higher rpm. 



Knife

The Coltri compressors are made in Italy but their motors for the USA market are rated 60hz:

Nah.

They just rebadged a standard 50Hz 2850rpm motor!!!

2850 / 50 x 60 = 3420rpm

 

[Scotchmo]

Just remember, many 220 compressors are made in Europe and many of them are on a 50 cycle design and our 220 is 60 cycle. It can cause issues with over heating the motor and higher rpm. 



Knife

The Coltri compressors are made in Italy but their motors for the USA market are rated 60hz:

Nah.

They just rebadged a standard 50Hz 2850rpm motor!!!

2850 / 50 x 60 = 3420rpm

That could be true, but the 60HZ Coltri also uses a different pulley system then the 50HZ. Compressor rpm ends up being correct for both. As long as the load matches the rpm, it's possible to rate the same motor for either frequency.

Problems can arise when that is not taken into account. The direct drive compressors don't have pulleys, so running the 50HZ motor at 60HZ can cause an overload.