Look.
There´s a WAY more elegant, efficient and usable solution to that but it DOES take that either you or someone you know or if so a local machine shop does...
Have access to a lathe.
It works like this.
Hammer momentum in its own rights but this of course also means that there´s something to counter act that momentum. Pressure at the poppet, and in turn how mallable (read - soft) the actual seal is.
One of the main factors for closing force on the poppet is the poppet stem diameter. In turn, a smaller stem/spindle of course also = better flow beneath the valve seat.
So what i do these days, almost as sorts of a standard operational procedure, is to convert the valve housing to take a 2mm stem out of hardened steel.
In this case the stock poppet with a modified seal for an Aselkon, and next to it a 2mm jobbie on a PEEK seal. In the case of the Aselkons the diameter for the stock thing is on 3mm, and one might think "what difference does a mill do"... but it does.
In turn using PEEK for a seal can reduce opening force on the poppet by as much as 15%.
Many a pcp use a stem of even greater diameter, for even bigger winnings. A good source for 2mm material is what we call "silver steel" or.. drill rod.
Decent source.. regular bicycle spokes.
What i do is turn the "top hat" for the setup (the seal in other words) and then drill a 10mm deep on on 1.5mm diameter. Then i to the letter use brute force setting the stem on 2mm into that hole for an absolute MASSIVE press fit and indeed to this day i have to see one come apart.
I normally make the seal on a 15-16mm total as in that manner there´s enough material in there to hinder the 2mm rod from digging into the seal by any appreciable amount.
The new stem "bearing" part i just make out of brass, or actually bearing bronze in my case. Set the diameter i need for the outside vs what the valve body hands and then either thread or press fit using Loctite cylindrical.
Then the whole thing on the lathe setting it using a dial indicator for minimum runout.. and drill a 1.9mm dia hole. Then run a 2.000mm reamer through there and done deal..
PEEK however is a rather stiff material why i mainly use it for guns to see from say 140 bar up. Haven´t tried it, but i bet for lower reg pressure applications POM would be a better material choice as it´s softer.
Difference in power SPAN is not to be taken lightly! Let me tell you that much!
For higher "horsepower" applications this stunt can hand a good 30J, and that no laughing matter exactly. The beauty of it is that there´s no real downsides to this.
It basically just widens the span of the gun, and rather profoundly so.
Point in case (and many more like it) this 22cal Aselkon MX-10. Now sporting a 145cc plenum it slings 40 grain slugs just up against the speed of sound at will, for an easy cool 135J on the stock approx 550mm barrel.
Here a by me heavily modified 25cal Kral Puncher Breaker. Same deal. Can reach well beyond 140 at will.
..and so the story goes...