1720T thread!
- Thread starter Larcat
- Start date
That stock is close to $400 from CrosmanMy project is to put my 1720T into a Crosman Challenger Stock. When finished, It will look exactly like the one in this picture. I have all the necessary parts and the exact same LDC as in picture. All I need is the time to do it!View attachment 309658
Asked them today when I ordered an extra .22 MROD Lothar barrel and a Fortitude tube.
The Fortitude tube can be modified by drilling two 4-40 holes (front ones, as the Fortitude breech has differently-located front breech screw holes and closer to the pellet loading port; the rear ones being spot on) to attach onto a PROD/17xx top.
Internals will remain the same, albeit the aluminum spacer between the valve and gauge block needs to be removed.
The advantage of a Fortitude tube is that you can mate it with a Boyd's Disco stock, with the air gauge in direct correlation to the stock's gauge hole unlike the PROD'S/1720T's-----that and double the shot count.
I'm making mine into a rifle with a Boyd's Varmint stock with an adjustable cheek piece.
It gonna look like a shotgun with an extended tubular magazine that is longer than the barrel----kinda rad, lol!
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Gents, I got the idea from Mr. John, aka Fuzzygrub in the GTA
Thank you, sir, you are a wealth of knowledge!
Thank you, sir, you are a wealth of knowledge!
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Thanks for the suggestions all -- I've got one of the JSB samplers coming -- I'm not sure what happened, cause I remember the polymags being fine to 40 or so... maybe just factor of shooting outdoors but we shall see.
Want to bump my regulator questions --
Lane vs Huma? Air capacity loss? Any trickiness with install?
I'm at 205 M/S at 2750 and 249 M/S at 2000 --- need to smooth it out.
Want to bump my regulator questions --
Lane vs Huma? Air capacity loss? Any trickiness with install?
I'm at 205 M/S at 2750 and 249 M/S at 2000 --- need to smooth it out.
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ThomasT
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- Apr 25, 2021
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Hello @Larcat
I'm surprised that a bunch of people have not shared their opinion here. I have only had one Lane and it worked fine, all the others have been and are Huma. I would think for stateside use and ease of excess to parts that the Huma would be my first choice.
ThomasT
I'm surprised that a bunch of people have not shared their opinion here. I have only had one Lane and it worked fine, all the others have been and are Huma. I would think for stateside use and ease of excess to parts that the Huma would be my first choice.
ThomasT
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I haven’t had it long and so far only shot @10m.Thanks for the reply regardless
How do you deal with the power spread in your 1720?
But please understand, it’s not necessary to have a regulator.
I get 25 shots or so that are close enough in fps where it isn’t going to effect poi. After that it drops off quickly.
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No experience with Lane regulator so I cannot say. I have read good things about Lane's theory of operation around faster recovery and a more gradual velocity change when falling off regulator, which IIRC is achieved by greater flow rate through the reg (larger ports) but have never tested one personally.
I have experience with a dozen or so Huma's for different applications and they have all been well made, reliable pieces. The primary reason I chose Huma over Lane is based on pics Huma's appeared to occupy less space in the tube.
Unfortunately it appears Robert Lane and Co are going through some challenges and have suspended operations for the time being.
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That stock is close to $400 from Crosman
Asked them today when I ordered an extra .22 MROD Lothar barrel and a Fortitude tube.
The Fortitude tube can be modified by drilling two 4-40 holes (front ones, as the Fortitude breech has differently-located front breech screw holes and closer to the pellet loading port; the rear ones being spot on) to attach onto a PROD/17xx top.
Internals will remain the same, albeit the aluminum spacer between the valve and gauge block needs to be removed.
The advantage of a Fortitude tube is that you can mate it with a Boyd's Disco stock, with the air gauge in direct correlation to the stock's gauge hole unlike the PROD'S/1720T's-----that and double the shot count.
I'm making mine into a rifle with a Boyd's Varmint stock with an adjustable cheek piece.
It gonna look like a shotgun with an extended tubular magazine that is longer than the barrel----kinda rad, lol!
How much did that LW barrel run you with inflation?
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Oh wow, I didn't see anything obvious about Lane.
Thanks for the headsup, makes the decision easier. Appreciate the info.
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Got the .22 MROD
The 1st one I bought was around $106 (?), IIRIC.
The price actually went down by about $10, Chris sir
The 1st one I bought was around $106 (?), IIRIC.
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Got the .22 MROD
The price actually went down by about $10, Chris sir
The 1st one I bought was around $106 (?), IIRIC.
Oh boy, that's not good for my wallet
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There were only three .22 MROD LW barrels left.
Did not ask them about the .177 though.
Might grab one myself post MLK.
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$400 just for the stock? Best to buy them used co2 challenger rifles for $150 that go on sale on ebay every now and then.That stock is close to $400 from Crosman
Asked them today when I ordered an extra .22 MROD Lothar barrel and a Fortitude tube.
The Fortitude tube can be modified by drilling two 4-40 holes (front ones, as the Fortitude breech has differently-located front breech screw holes and closer to the pellet loading port; the rear ones being spot on) to attach onto a PROD/17xx top.
Internals will remain the same, albeit the aluminum spacer between the valve and gauge block needs to be removed.
The advantage of a Fortitude tube is that you can mate it with a Boyd's Disco stock, with the air gauge in direct correlation to the stock's gauge hole unlike the PROD'S/1720T's-----that and double the shot count.
I'm making mine into a rifle with a Boyd's Varmint stock with an adjustable cheek piece.
It gonna look like a shotgun with an extended tubular magazine that is longer than the barrel----kinda rad, lol!
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Good looking Prods. Lots of shots!!! I especially like the short tube version. I built a Gen 1 Mrod similar in that the is tube just long enough to allow space for the valve and tank block.
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