N/A .177 - I've been asking the wrong questions
- Thread starter graycrait
- Start date
I forgot this one. Katran Compact
utahairguns.com
AirMaks KATRAN Compact Airguns
The AirMaks KATRAN Compact comes with a CZ Barrels and has shown impressive accuracy and performance in initial tests.
utahairguns.com 
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An AGT Vixen compact would seem to fit the spec. It's bottle is in the back, however, and is only 250cc. Seems like to make it under 90 db you may need to add a carbon fiber shroud or a moderator, however. Reviews seem a little inconsistent on noise level. The other thing that bothers me from some reviews is some hold sensitivity but that was for bench work.
My first choice is the only 177 pcp I own, a P35 in that caliber. It is about 5 lbs as received and it is easy to make quiet (hair curler mod or a printed moderator in the shroud). It gives me about 100 shots on a 250 bar fill at 18 fpe. Very accurate. Krale sells them. The Stoeger Bullshark is available in this country and is a better but very nearly the same gun from some aspects but the stock it comes with takes it up to 6 lbs. I make my own wood stocks so that would not deter me, with a decently designed wood stock it would meet your 5.5 lb specification. These are tube guns, however, not bottle guns. The capacity is only a little less than the Vixen but it is in a tube format. Price is good at under $500.
My first choice is the only 177 pcp I own, a P35 in that caliber. It is about 5 lbs as received and it is easy to make quiet (hair curler mod or a printed moderator in the shroud). It gives me about 100 shots on a 250 bar fill at 18 fpe. Very accurate. Krale sells them. The Stoeger Bullshark is available in this country and is a better but very nearly the same gun from some aspects but the stock it comes with takes it up to 6 lbs. I make my own wood stocks so that would not deter me, with a decently designed wood stock it would meet your 5.5 lb specification. These are tube guns, however, not bottle guns. The capacity is only a little less than the Vixen but it is in a tube format. Price is good at under $500.
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I noticed the RAW Mini’s are offered as a regular stocked item in 177 over in Europe. I wouldn’t mind having a Mini but it would need to be in 177. The other option would be to buy the RAW pistol and just stick an AR15 stock on it.
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The RAW pistol is single shot while the micro is a repeater and is available in .177 caliber
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forgot about that but for me I just assume have a single shot. For my personal use I really don't have a use for a rifle with a magazine. The RAW Micro is the only air rifle I currently own with a magazine. All the magazine is really good for is when I take it to deer camp and non air gunners try out an air rifle. They think it’s cool. I am sure the OP would want a magazine so the Micro would be better.
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@nobody1 ,
"You did not mention cost."
You are right I didn't and if I did my list would be very very small. A 12FPE .177 is enough for me. I also don't have so much money that I don't know what to do with it.
It appears that easy exterior power/hammer/trigger adjustability is a cost issue. It would be fun to tune to certain spec without degassing and tear down. @JimD 's suggestion about a non bottle gun he has, the Snowpeak P35, intrigues me. Looks handy to handle for Red dot optic shooting and priced comfortably for a guy like me. Or maybe the Stoeger Bullshark .177.
"You did not mention cost."
You are right I didn't and if I did my list would be very very small. A 12FPE .177 is enough for me. I also don't have so much money that I don't know what to do with it.
It appears that easy exterior power/hammer/trigger adjustability is a cost issue. It would be fun to tune to certain spec without degassing and tear down. @JimD 's suggestion about a non bottle gun he has, the Snowpeak P35, intrigues me. Looks handy to handle for Red dot optic shooting and priced comfortably for a guy like me. Or maybe the Stoeger Bullshark .177.
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The Bullshark is almost the same as the P35.
It seems that you want this for target shooting, probably in your backyard over shorter distance.
I am not sure why you need a bottle instead of an air tube, since if you are in your backyard you can just go and fill it up.
Depending on distance there are plenty of cheaper options.
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Maybe not exactly what you're looking for, but... A Benji Maximus/Disco, Diana Stormrider or similar and a pony bottle? Keeping the bottle off the gun keeps weight down but you still have readily access to air supply for quick refills. A small 350cc or 500cc bottle and valve with a whip line could be had for $60-$70 or so plus cost of airgun... It's about the cheapest route one could go and sorta meet the criteria.
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@Just Zack 2 & @nobody1 , I have 2 CZ/AA 200s and a regulated Stormrider, all .177. I don't need another with "100" shots per fill but I am curious. Even more curious to tune with external controls. I have one custom tuned & custom triggered 12FPE AA S200 that I can't hardly believe I can get .177 quieter or more accurate and I have 2 tube tanks for it. I am mainly just exploring the possibilities.... In case I see a hot deal on something used.
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I just shot my 177 BullShark shooting 13gr JSB’s at 22 FPE. Man I love it. I have a Huma mod 30, that combined with the shroud, all I hear is hammer and impact. I think I get about 70 shots, I have too many AG’s to remember all their details.
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Trigger adjustment on a Bullshark or P35 requires removing the stock but that is two screws. Taking it off and putting it back does not require adjusting the scope on my guns. The biggest thing is to relax a spring that looks like it came from a ballpoint pen on the rod transfering the trigger movement to the sear. Relaxing the spring makes both the first and second stage go down significantly. Second stage should be only a little over a pound with that 5 minute change with zero risk of an accidental discharge. You can make the second stage even lighter by backing off the sear engagement but that is not zero risk, of course. I have my guns a little under a pound.
Hammer spring adjustment is right there sticking out the back of the action. Stick an allen wrench on the nut and turn. Action stays in the stock for this.
Regulator is not as easy but not overly difficult. If the regulator has been in place for awhile, you can adjust it by removing the nut the gauge is on after degassing. Then a long extension and a 12mm socket will loosen the lock nut and a long straight bladed screwdriver will make the adjustment. Tighten the lock nut (making sure the adjustment screw didn't move) and reassemble and gas up. Maybe 15 minutes for me. If you've had the regulator our recently the O-rings on it will not resist the wrench enough for you to loosen the lock nut. No need to remove the action from the stock if you go in from the front. But if the regulator moves you have to remove the airtube and go in from the back. That requires removing the action from the stock, loosening the two bolts that clamp the airtube to the barrel and threading off the airtube. It is a good idea to note how far the clamp yokes are from the action since the gun will not cock if this is not set reasonably well. That is more work but still not very hard. I've gone up and down on my 177 and 25 retuning them but most of the time I just shoot them. I've never touched the regulator in my 22, it shoots too well. It is much easier to increase the regulator on my Avenger but turning it down requires degassing which is most of the hassle for me in making these changes. My Caiman is worse than the P35s for effort required to change the regulator. But I've rebuilt it's regulator not because I wanted to but because it came to me messed up. P35s have not required regulator work. They come with the tools you need to take them apart and a set of replacement O-rings (but a lousy instruction manual that is not very useful).
My 22 and 25 caliber P35s came with the regulator set about as high as the hammer spring can handle. I think the 177 could go up but I'm getting about 900 fps on heavy for caliber pellets so I do not see the need. So if you want about the most power the gun can make (a little under 20 fpe for the 177, a little over 30 for the 22 and low 40s for the 25) you don't need to mess with the regulator. The Xtreme power plenum was much more effective in increasing the power of my 25 than my regulator adjustments (because of the hammer spring limitation). The bullshark will make a little more power because it's barrel is 40mm longer.
Hammer spring adjustment is right there sticking out the back of the action. Stick an allen wrench on the nut and turn. Action stays in the stock for this.
Regulator is not as easy but not overly difficult. If the regulator has been in place for awhile, you can adjust it by removing the nut the gauge is on after degassing. Then a long extension and a 12mm socket will loosen the lock nut and a long straight bladed screwdriver will make the adjustment. Tighten the lock nut (making sure the adjustment screw didn't move) and reassemble and gas up. Maybe 15 minutes for me. If you've had the regulator our recently the O-rings on it will not resist the wrench enough for you to loosen the lock nut. No need to remove the action from the stock if you go in from the front. But if the regulator moves you have to remove the airtube and go in from the back. That requires removing the action from the stock, loosening the two bolts that clamp the airtube to the barrel and threading off the airtube. It is a good idea to note how far the clamp yokes are from the action since the gun will not cock if this is not set reasonably well. That is more work but still not very hard. I've gone up and down on my 177 and 25 retuning them but most of the time I just shoot them. I've never touched the regulator in my 22, it shoots too well. It is much easier to increase the regulator on my Avenger but turning it down requires degassing which is most of the hassle for me in making these changes. My Caiman is worse than the P35s for effort required to change the regulator. But I've rebuilt it's regulator not because I wanted to but because it came to me messed up. P35s have not required regulator work. They come with the tools you need to take them apart and a set of replacement O-rings (but a lousy instruction manual that is not very useful).
My 22 and 25 caliber P35s came with the regulator set about as high as the hammer spring can handle. I think the 177 could go up but I'm getting about 900 fps on heavy for caliber pellets so I do not see the need. So if you want about the most power the gun can make (a little under 20 fpe for the 177, a little over 30 for the 22 and low 40s for the 25) you don't need to mess with the regulator. The Xtreme power plenum was much more effective in increasing the power of my 25 than my regulator adjustments (because of the hammer spring limitation). The bullshark will make a little more power because it's barrel is 40mm longer.
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