Yeah G7 is for long boat-tails and for short boat-tails like the NOE you linked G5 might be better but neither strelok nor applied ballistics app support anything but G1 and G7. Unless you map the whole trajectory into custom curved like Applied Ballistics, granted with Labrador you probably have the custom curve for at least first 100 yards.
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Sounds like 0.26 in G1 is working for you, pretty mind blowing!
With a labradar that would take one heck of a lot of work, and some fudging of data. Depending on the environment the labradar is used in, and how well it is aimed to have the projectile flying through the true center of the beam, you can have very short distances of reliable readings. Where I use mine at home, on my long range of 110 yards, a 7mm projectile (nosler 140 grain partition) only gives good data out to 29-31 yards, it will track all the way to the target, but anything past roughly 30 yards is worthless. Some people have a clean enough environment for the weak radar the labradar uses and may get good data to 50 yards(looking at peoples full data they published I've never seen good data much past 40 yards ever), but really impossible to get it past that. To get long range data with a labradar, you need to find the shortest distance your data ever gets funky at all, fire a large number of bullets. Then you move your Labradar to roughly 15 yards short of that distance, extremely acurately measuring the distance from center of labradar where it was on bench to center of where it is now, getting it set up exactly in line, accurately aimed and set to the labradar trigger to doppler. You will be shooting your bullet to pass the labradar exactly where your muzzle would be placed next to the labradar when shooting on a bench. Better be accurate or you just destroyed it. With slow projectiles and lots of drop, midrange you may need a fairly tall tripod to accuratelly get it set to where the bullet passes it exactly as it did leaving the muzzle when you were at the bench to begin with. Measuing distance as you move the labradar downrange has to be ultra accurate. Keep doing this until you get far enough down range for your purposes.
Aiming a labradar correctly is more "fun" than most people realize. The notch is totally worthless, the two halves of the clamshell on the labradar are not truly symmetrical and the notch can be anywhere from meh, to truly horrible. This actually works out for how I attach my aiming device. Molded base out of steel epoxy that takes advantage of the non symmetry and cannot be placed but in one exact spot all the time. I did a lot of grid testing to find where the center of my beam was truly located and made an aiming device that is repeatable to less than a foot at 110 yards.
Here is two consecutive readouts from when I was testing my new at the time uragan 22, it was at that time over 30 ft lbs, currently I have it tuned down to roughly 22 ft-lbs. I was testing 25gr pellet at the time. Wasted a ten shot string here the first time, I had bumped the tripod and didn't think I moved it, should have checked the aim. I knocked the aim off about 3 feet to the side and a foot or so low at 110 yards, properly aimed SNR would be around 40 for the 22 Uragan that close in, but SNR doesn't matter too much over 30, just an indication I was off badly. All data was worthless except rough muzzle velocity. Using the notch on the labradar to aim, you probably cannot repeat your aim any closer than this was off at the time.
Time | Dist. Yards | Vel. Fps | SNR |
0.033021 | 8.52 | 769.58 | 32.41 |
0.035021 | 9.03 | 769.53 | 32.46 |
It is completely impossible for the pellet to have dropped 0.05 fps in 2/1000 of a second. It slows down much faster than that, and this was only 8 yards out.
