2 cylinder tuxing 4500 psi compressor PRV
- Thread starter ssgmac
- Start date
shhhh! You're going to get us busted. 
I've got three of them like this (they came out of an old mini fountain that was tossed to the curb). I dropped the other two into a couple of socks and run each one to a cylinder head. Then each return line runs back to the shower head. .. but I recently found that a gatorade bottle with a bunch of holes poked into it worked just as well and it was more compact.
As for the rust issue, what will rust? The cylinder is all aluminum and the fittings are brass. The coolant still makes the water "wetter" though. Like a surfactant. It breaks the surface tension of the water, making it more viscous, which probably makes it dissipate heat better. The smallest Passage the water has to go through is the brass fittings on the water jackets on the heads. Inside it's just a big void. There are no small passages or anything like that. You could probably hook it up in reverse and would work just as well however, on mine, the inlet fitting is a little bit bigger than the outlet, which probably gives it some back pressure so the water can collect heat better maybe? I don't know, but the coolant probably does the same thing or give you enough advantage that the fitting sizes don't need to be different but I don't know for sure.
so now I'm wondering if it would be better to tie both return lines together, but probably not both of them through the run and then out the branch. I would do one through the run the other one through the branch and let them return out of the other run the tee fitting. Here's a couple of quick drawings to help illustrate. I'm currently running with the option on the left.Upvote 0
Update on the 6000 psi cylinders on ebay. I made them a lowball 2 for 1 offer. They turned me down. I went to see my guy at the weld supply place to inquire about pricing. He said they wouldn't sell me an empty one. The only option I had with them was to rent a CGA 677 cylinder with 6000 psi of nitrogen (which is good gas for pcp).
The two problems I'm having is that I don't want to have to rely on them for my air and I don't like the idea of paying full price for a cylinder of gas of which I will only be using half (FX REVO is a 200 bar gun)
Hey, maybe I can go to 5,000 with my stuff and use rented cylinder to top off
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I used to shoot nitrogen years ago when it was affordable, unfortunately now it’s stupid money around here. If you’re just going to use it to top off above 5000 it should last you a while. Hopefully you can get a better deal than we have here.
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Idk how much it costs here. I understand why acetylene costs a lot, and even oxygen really. But our atmosphere is like 75% nitrogen. I don't know why it costs so much.
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Very nice setup. I just finished testing my setup and will post along with what I have done to keep it cooler. Although I didn't go as far as you have, it is effective. Now, the question is how to keep the oil cool. I have considered an oil cooler, but since it is a splash system, that is not possible. Therefore, I was thinking of placing a few heat sinks on the crankcase along with a small fan. Thermal breakdown is a compressor's worst enemy. Tuxing says max temp is 180 but that's way higher then I like.
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Actually, my setup looks kinda hokey, but it works well. As for oil cooling, I have been pondering and checking prices on parts. Since the crankcase already has 2 tapped penetrations, I'd like to run a tee off the fill port for an oil return line and drill and tap the drain port to ¼" npt. Then run a tee off of it to a low pressure fuel pump to a coil that will be submerged in the cooling water and return to the fill port. I think the oil is thin enough and the pump is less than $10 if it doesn't work, no big deal ..oh and the 110vac to 12vdc converter is less than the pump. ..even an inline hand pump could work, depending on how big the coil is, but you'd have to be present.
I don't know about you, but I don't like to be real close. Not for any fear of explosion or anything like that. The problem I have is that I'll swear it's making a new noise that it wasn't making before. And the more I think about it, the worse it gets. But it's only in my mind, so it's better if I'm within earshot, but involved in another activity while the compressor is running.
Edit:
I was off on those crankcase thread sizes. The fill port appears to be ⅜ npt, but it's not. I think it's bsp. I added ⅜" bsp (g thread) x ⅜" mip (male npt) nipple adapters to the list. Then ⅜" x ¼" tee ... wait
maybe stick with bsp through the run of the tee to reuse that crankcase breather and come out of the branch with a bsp x 5/16 barbed fitting Last edited:
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Pressure vessels, like the Tuxing 4500 psi compressor, are typically subjected to hydrostatic testing at 1.5 times their working pressure to ensure safety and structural integrity. This is a standard practice in the industry to verify that the equipment can handle pressures beyond its normal operating range without failure.
For a compressor with a working pressure of 4500 psi, this means it would be tested at 6750 psi during inspection but running that high over time will shorten its life and its components.
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Yeah, I'm aware and stateside they do 5/3 testing last I checked. It's more my lack of faith in cheap Chinese manufacturing practices. We cleared up why he was doing it....huben.
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I also own 2 Tuxing twin cylinder but I have no need to push them over 4500, to each there own. My aim is to have it run 25 min and head temp below 120 and I have done that. Next is the oil temp. For the money they are very hard to beat if you can do those 2 things. One of mine is going on 4 years old and used often before I bought the 2nd one.
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