2024 CS4 SETUP
- Thread starter F6Hawk
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See post #14 on page 1 of this very thread. Link: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/2024-cs4-setup.1307075/post-1683197
If you review page 1, you'll see that mine mostly changed color after just a few minutes. One really needs a LONG air channel to dry the air much for a longet pumping section. 2X2' may even be on the smallish side, depending on the humidity in your area. The beauty of his design is that it's very modular, easy to add 1, 2, 3 or more tubes if needed.
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I much larger input filter will work better but will lower the input pressure to less than 1 atm. I you have a regular air compressor you can filter much more water out while not lowering the input pressure to the CS4. If you only fill to 300 bar you can even get the CS4 to pump more air per minute by increasing the input pressure above 1 absolute atm.
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Oil less air compressor -> regulator 80 PSI -> oil dirt filter -> large silica bead filter (> 1QT) -> regulator 1/2 PSI -> input port of the CS4.
At 0 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 400 bar and took 29 secs to reach 300 bar.
At 3 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 300 bar and took 25 secs.
At 4 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at only 230 bar and that took 18 sec.
So if I only fill to 300 bar then boosting the input pressure to 3 psi will load the motor about the same as going all the way to 400 bar. To be conservative I think I will set the boost pressure to 2 psi and I only fill to 300 bar.
GX CS4 dry air modification
Although the few silica beads I put inside a small filter is still blue after I filled 2 guns, one 210cc from 120 to 200 the other a 320cc from 150 to 300. The purge valve didn't let out even one drop of water. Since I'm a man of science and believe in conversation of mass. All the water...
www.airgunnation.com Oil less air compressor -> regulator 80 PSI -> oil dirt filter -> large silica bead filter (> 1QT) -> regulator 1/2 PSI -> input port of the CS4.
At 0 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 400 bar and took 29 secs to reach 300 bar.
At 3 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 300 bar and took 25 secs.
At 4 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at only 230 bar and that took 18 sec.
So if I only fill to 300 bar then boosting the input pressure to 3 psi will load the motor about the same as going all the way to 400 bar. To be conservative I think I will set the boost pressure to 2 psi and I only fill to 300 bar.
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It won't lower a significant amount less than 1 ATM as long as the diameter and the inlet holes are sufficient. Sadly, I don't have room for a 2nd compressor to use your method, though I KNOW it is certainly more efficient. Would be lovely to have a setup where it is pressurized to 150 psi, water separated, then regulated down to 16 psi to feed the CS4. One day, perhaps, when I have a shop again...I much larger input filter will work better but will lower the input pressure to less than 1 atm. I you have a regular air compressor you can filter much more water out while not lowering the input pressure to the CS4. If you only fill to 300 bar you can even get the CS4 to pump more air per minute by increasing the input pressure above 1 absolute atm.
GX CS4 dry air modification
Although the few silica beads I put inside a small filter is still blue after I filled 2 guns, one 210cc from 120 to 200 the other a 320cc from 150 to 300. The purge valve didn't let out even one drop of water. Since I'm a man of science and believe in conversation of mass. All the water...
Oil less air compressor -> regulator 80 PSI -> oil dirt filter -> large silica bead filter (> 1QT) -> regulator 1/2 PSI -> input port of the CS4.
At 0 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 400 bar and took 29 secs to reach 300 bar.
At 3 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at 300 bar and took 25 secs.
At 4 PSI boost the CS4's power supply used 435 watts at only 230 bar and that took 18 sec.
So if I only fill to 300 bar then boosting the input pressure to 3 psi will load the motor about the same as going all the way to 400 bar. To be conservative I think I will set the boost pressure to 2 psi and I only fill to 300 bar.
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You won't know for sure without connecting a vacuum gauge. You can test it by doing a dead head test. One with a long 2' filter and compare it to the same test without any filter. If the time is the same I would assume insignificant pressure loss.
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If I build it, I will throw a vacuum gauge on the compressor intake end for verifying. Good points, all around, I love the way you think!
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Lots of great information in here. Just got my CX4-I yesterday. Hopefully will have time to setup this weekend
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Congrats on the CS4-I, I hope you enjoy it. If you want any help, PM me and I can assist. Even have a 90% full bottle of water wetter so you don't have to buy anything!
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I'm using a plastic peanut jar filled with 3a molecular sieve & blue/pink silica on the intake and a Tuxing sieve cylinder on the output. Never a drop from the pump's bleed hose. After about 5 hours, dried the sieve beads for another round.
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Man, that's a solid setup. I was going to comment on your advanced SCBA tank security system; looks like it works well!! I'm sure you're pumping air about as dry as it gets, outside of Alaska and Antarctica.
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Ahhh, very nice! I haven't been to the Big Island since 2002. Just visited Oahu in February. Yeah, I think you may have more humidity than I do here in South Florida!!
So far my little MS filter seems to be doing the trick. If ever it fails, I will likely step up to your level of filtration.
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Newbie here , will that setup work on a
E-L2 Portable?
Or is it overkill?Also, the clear plastic tube looks like it's out of the container. Do you put in while running only and I assume it attaches behind the compressor. How attached?
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I think this type of pre-filter set-up could be used with any HP compressor because the intake air is not restricted enough through the molecular beads to cause the pictured rubber hose to collapse. Granted, this is NOT the best water filtration solution, but it's cost effective and I get NO visable moisture from the CS4's vent hose (so far).
The entire media content stays in the jar until the blue silicone beads start turning pink, then they all get poured into a Pyrex dish to be dried in a microwave (about 15 minutes for this much media, in 3 minute intervals to wipe up moisture from inside the microwave). The beads MUST be sufficiently cooled before returning to the plastic jar!!!
The plastic jar's lid gets tightened between compressor runs to keep out moisture. There's a foam disc from a tin of pellets, placed in the neck of the jar to keep out any debris.
I drilled a hole in the base of the plastic jar and inserted a brass elbow that is sealed with RTV silicone. To prevent migration of molecular beads, there is short section of .243 caliber bore brush inserted into the rubber hose where it connects to the brass elbow.
The rubber hose in the picture connects the jar to a plastic coupling for portability. The next rubber hose goes through a circular opening in the back of the CS4 and then up to the cylinder head's intake elbow (pictured in F6Hawk's set-up).
The entire media content stays in the jar until the blue silicone beads start turning pink, then they all get poured into a Pyrex dish to be dried in a microwave (about 15 minutes for this much media, in 3 minute intervals to wipe up moisture from inside the microwave). The beads MUST be sufficiently cooled before returning to the plastic jar!!!
The plastic jar's lid gets tightened between compressor runs to keep out moisture. There's a foam disc from a tin of pellets, placed in the neck of the jar to keep out any debris.
I drilled a hole in the base of the plastic jar and inserted a brass elbow that is sealed with RTV silicone. To prevent migration of molecular beads, there is short section of .243 caliber bore brush inserted into the rubber hose where it connects to the brass elbow.
The rubber hose in the picture connects the jar to a plastic coupling for portability. The next rubber hose goes through a circular opening in the back of the CS4 and then up to the cylinder head's intake elbow (pictured in F6Hawk's set-up).
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Very simple, efficient, and cost-effective. WTG, @Shoothabreez. I like the fact that the surface of the area is so large as compared to the intake hose diameter. As long as the blue desiccant changes color evenly across the jar, and not via an air channel, you are in great shape.
Thanks for sharing your design! Due to the small space I have for my compressor, I am going to go with something similar. I think instead of the square jar, I will go with something taller and skinnier to fit my location.
Thanks for sharing your design! Due to the small space I have for my compressor, I am going to go with something similar. I think instead of the square jar, I will go with something taller and skinnier to fit my location.
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Selling my CS4. Good deal for someone who is ready to pull the trigger on one!
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Compressors - GX-CS4 for sale
Practically new GX-CS4. Has LEDs installed on the water lines for easy visibility, and an hour meter installed. 4.3 hours total, with 2.0 hours being a gentle, no-load break-in run. Decided to go with the CS4-I. My loss is your gain. $450 shipped to a US address. Prefer Zelle as payment...
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