That is a VERY good price with the upgrades, included shipping and NO TAX. I doubt this will last very long.
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2024 CS4 SETUP
- Thread starter F6Hawk
- Start date
Has it been proven that these pre-filters work?
I’d expect they’d lower the humidity going into the compressor to some degree but is it enough to be worth the trouble?
I’d much rather use a pre-filter than an aft-filter that requires time/pressure to fill before the air even gets to the tank/gun.
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Not sure what you mean by "proven"? Any time you pass moist air thru desiccant, it removes moisture. That's why SO MANY things ship with the little bags of desiccant.
The more you remove before compression, the less you'll have as the air is heated. It's up to the end user to determine if it's worth the trouble of building the filter then keeping up with drying the desiccant.
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Damn! I would’ve drove down and bought yours instead of buying the CS4-ISelling my CS4. Good deal for someone who is ready to pull the trigger on one!
Compressors - GX-CS4 for sale
Practically new GX-CS4. Has LEDs installed on the water lines for easy visibility, and an hour meter installed. 4.3 hours total, with 2.0 hours being a gentle, no-load break-in run. Decided to go with the CS4-I. My loss is your gain. $450 shipped to a US address. Prefer Zelle as payment...www.airgunnation.com
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Howdy longdog. In post #50, I mentioned that I no longer get any moisture coming out of the CS4's drain hose. None. As pictured, there's also a Tuxing post filter, but after roughly 7 hrs of use, the blue silica beads that I've mixed into its desiccant cartridge are still blue. Here, we have an average of about 73% humidity.
I'm no scientist. Just a retired grease monkey, however I'd say that these results are proof enough for me that my rather large pre-filter does work quite well.
I'm no scientist. Just a retired grease monkey, however I'd say that these results are proof enough for me that my rather large pre-filter does work quite well.
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Good to know! But even it it didn't work that well it seems you are covered with that large gold filter.
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It might catch all the moisture on its own but I'd need to dry it's sieve more often. It's there mostly for insurance. I like the idea of keeping moisture out of the compression cylinders.
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How are you drying your molecular sieve. To reactivate the stuff I got, the instructions says, heat @ 1020F° for 2 hours. So, I just been tossing it.
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Pour the sieve onto a Pyrex dish. Microwave for 3 minutes. Wipe off moisture from inside the oven. Repeat until there's no more moisture to wipe up. With the amount of desiccant in that peanut jar, it took about 15 or so minutes.
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Are you talking about the blue silica gel. That you can put in the microwave. The molecular sieve requires much more heat.
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And.. I'm seeing all different types of information. Guess it depends what type, 3a, 4a, etc.
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So far, I've only used 3a but plan to get 13x later on.
I microwaved the 3a sieve with blue (pink until dried out) silica balls mixed in until there was no more moisture collecting on the inside walls of the microwave oven (approx 15 minutes). That seemed dry enough for me. Since returning all the desiccant to the peanut jar and running the compressor for another 90 minutes or so, the indicating silica is still blue. And, I still get NO moisture from the CS4's drain.
You can choose to disbelieve, but
this has been working out for me so far.
I microwaved the 3a sieve with blue (pink until dried out) silica balls mixed in until there was no more moisture collecting on the inside walls of the microwave oven (approx 15 minutes). That seemed dry enough for me. Since returning all the desiccant to the peanut jar and running the compressor for another 90 minutes or so, the indicating silica is still blue. And, I still get NO moisture from the CS4's drain.
You can choose to disbelieve, but
this has been working out for me so far.
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I've never tried to dry molecular sieve beads precicsely because of what Ta-Ta-Toothie says, but whenever I dty out my silica gel beads, I weigh them before and after to find out how much water has has been driven out. If the beads have fully turned, it can be about 30% of the dry weight.
Next time you dry yours, I would highly recommend weighing them - it will let you see if you are getting all of them fully dry, partially dry, or just the indicating ones . . .
Next time you dry yours, I would highly recommend weighing them - it will let you see if you are getting all of them fully dry, partially dry, or just the indicating ones . . .
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Thanks so much Shootthabreeze. You answered my question exactly without trying to school me on what “proof” means.
Believe that I’ll try your setup.
The relative humidity is very low out here in west Texas so maybe I can get by without the big gold filter.
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