The older LC110 below has a 3 stage pump (MCH3). The hole from the missing stage is covered by a blanking plate.
Last edited:
Upvote 0
220 volt vs 115 volt HPA Compressor
- Thread starter Michael
- Start date
I have too many compressors too. I'm thinking about selling the Omega Turbocharger. I plan to keep a big 220 and a 110-volt though.
Upvote 0
Higher voltage requires lower amperage draw. (220v draws HALF the amps! compared to 110v)
Lower amp draw equates to less heat production.
Less heat means a longer lasting motor.
220v for the win
Lower amp draw equates to less heat production.
Less heat means a longer lasting motor.
220v for the win
Last edited:
Upvote 0
The 220v unit draws more amps than the low consumption 110v unit. Most of the heat needing to be dissipated comes from compression. The 220v unit compresses at over twice the rate. The 220v unit puts out a lot more heat.Higher voltage requires lower amperage draw. (220v draws HALF the amps! compared to 110v)
Lower amp draw equates to less heat production.
Less heat means a longer lasting motor.
220v for the win
Upvote 0
My other hobby is woodworking and the subject of 115V tools versus 220V tools comes up often. By education I am a mechanical engineer and I worked in the electricity supply business for 40 years (most of the time nuclear fuel but I've sold al sorts of electrical equipment). When someone tells you a 220V tool is more efficient, or labors less or is otherwise superior to a 115V tool you need to be careful about everything else they told you. These arguments are just not true. 220V is supplied as a single 60 Hz wave that is line to line. 115V is the line to ground voltage (or line to neutral). Also a single 60 hz wave. For the same hp motor, the amps are 1/2 with 220V. That is very important if the hp of the motor would require more than 15A or at most 20A when used at 115V. If the startup amps get close to the wiring limit then using the device on a circuit that serves other loads can lead to a breaker trip. 14 gauge wire is used for 15A circuits (220 or 115V) and 12 gauge is used for 20A circuits. The breaker has to be no higher than this. It is not safe to put a 20A breaker on a 14 gauge circuit. But the desire to avoid getting too close to the current limit of the wire in a circuit is the only real reason to prefer 220V. It will not be more efficient nor will the device be quieter or in any other way better, it will just be less likely to result in a breaker trip.
Having said all that, I should also acknowledge it is very possible for a manufacturer to use a 220V motor in a device that is more efficient or quieter than the 115V motor they use in the same device. There are differences in motors. But that sort of difference could go either way so unless you can get detailed specifications for both, it is not safe to think one voltage is better than another.
I want to know looking at a compressor what it's rated cfm is or the hp of it's motor. The voltage kind of implies a more powerful unit but low hp 220V motors are available.
Having said all that, I should also acknowledge it is very possible for a manufacturer to use a 220V motor in a device that is more efficient or quieter than the 115V motor they use in the same device. There are differences in motors. But that sort of difference could go either way so unless you can get detailed specifications for both, it is not safe to think one voltage is better than another.
I want to know looking at a compressor what it's rated cfm is or the hp of it's motor. The voltage kind of implies a more powerful unit but low hp 220V motors are available.
Upvote 0
****EDIT *******
It is all in the Amperage Draw!!
For a full sized HPA Compressor you will need to run a dedicated, heavy gauged 120v circuit....30-40 amp...
220v... only a 15 amp circuit...simple run....
It is all in the Amperage Draw!!
For a full sized HPA Compressor you will need to run a dedicated, heavy gauged 120v circuit....30-40 amp...
220v... only a 15 amp circuit...simple run....
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Both Coltri and Alkin told me that the 220v motors are more durable, so I guess I would go 220.
Upvote 0
I believe but but I'm not a electrician, that the 220 will use less power if indeed it is a true 220 and not just using 1 leg of the single phase of the 220 line.
Upvote 0
If you have an electric dryer in your home it's likely on a 30 amp 220v circuit. Assuming your compressor is no more than 30 amp, wire a NEMA 10-30P plug to your compressor power cord and you should be good to go with using the current dryer receptacle. No new wiring required.
Upvote 0
220V and 110V are both single phase power. The 220 is the line to line voltage and the 110 is line to neutral (which is sometimes grounded so then it is also line to ground). There are two of the three phases the power was generated at in your breaker box. The 110 breakers tap one of the bars (i.e. one phase) and the 220V breakers tap two of the bars. There is no reason 220V anything is more efficient or otherwise better than 110V. But at some point, the current necessary at 110V is too much for normal conductors to handle so it is best to use 220V. The biggest 110V motors produce 1.5-2hp. If your compressor or other device is bigger, it should be at 220V. If it's smaller (like a YH) then 110V will work fine and be just as efficient. I'm not against 220V power but it is more dangerous and the outlets and power cords are more expensive. I just don't think it should be used unless it's really necessary due both to the cost and the danger. You die from an electric shock when the current across your heart is high enough to stop your heart. Fortunately our bodies are not good conductors but getting the necessary current is much more likely with a 220V incident than a 110V. In general it is a myth that 220V motors are superior to 110V. If they cost the same, the 220V is not better. It is how the motor is made that makes one more efficient or longer lasting, not the voltage it operates at.
Upvote 0
Yes and no. Most modern homes have 12g 20A outlets, older ones are 14g 15A outlets. A 1 HP motor takes 746 watts if 100% efficient which it isn't. Use a more typical number of 85% yields input wattage of 878 watts. Best case assuming a 120V line not 110V that would draw 7.3A. Well within the 20A limit so would a 2HP motor. However the startup current is much more than the running current. I just measured my 1HP motor and got 48A RMS for 0.28/sec during startup. So the voltage drop is significant on a 12g wire during startup. Assuming you are 50 feet away from the breaker panel the voltage drop during startup would be 7.6V, or a drop of 6.4%. For my 1HP motor it isn't too bad if 50 feet away. The numbers are worst it the distance or HP is greater. The voltage drop is 1/2 using 240V everything else being the same. If you see your lights on the same circuit flickering when you start your pump it would indicate a significant drop in voltage that would be less if the motor was 240V.
Upvote 0
Europe has been on 220v for a long time, and there not electrocuting anyone.
220V uses less current, hence more efficient.
220V uses less current, hence more efficient.
Upvote 0
The only reason a 120 motor would be better is because of convenience if your residence does not have 240 available.
Comparing a 120 vs 240 motor that is rated for the load the difference in performance would be negligible. If the motors are the same RPM and service factor.
We pay for power by KWH the cost to run the same HP motor would be negligible also.
Most of the world uses 220 for household voltage not 120/240. 240 voltage is NOT anymore dangerous. If contact is made the current would actually be less current is what kills. However less than .5 amps could stop your heart anyway.
As stated many times above current is less by 50% on the 240 volt motor. Current is directly proportional to heat. Lower voltage bigger conductors or wire needed. As said above voltage drop will be noticed more with the lower voltage higher current. 5% voltage drop seriously degrades motor life.
A neutral conductor is always grounded. By definition a neutral is an intentionally grounded current carrying electrode. There are a lot of fatalities every year by becoming in series with a neutral conductor.
These are facts, probably not in great order though.
Comparing a 120 vs 240 motor that is rated for the load the difference in performance would be negligible. If the motors are the same RPM and service factor.
We pay for power by KWH the cost to run the same HP motor would be negligible also.
Most of the world uses 220 for household voltage not 120/240. 240 voltage is NOT anymore dangerous. If contact is made the current would actually be less current is what kills. However less than .5 amps could stop your heart anyway.
As stated many times above current is less by 50% on the 240 volt motor. Current is directly proportional to heat. Lower voltage bigger conductors or wire needed. As said above voltage drop will be noticed more with the lower voltage higher current. 5% voltage drop seriously degrades motor life.
A neutral conductor is always grounded. By definition a neutral is an intentionally grounded current carrying electrode. There are a lot of fatalities every year by becoming in series with a neutral conductor.
These are facts, probably not in great order though.
Upvote 0
It is dangerously wrong to suggest 240 V is not more dangerous. The current flowing to the tool has nothing to do with the danger. The current that flows through your body is a function of the resistance of your body and the voltage that is forcing the flow of current. Twice the voltage means twice the current flow in your body. Standing in water lowers your resistance increasing current flow and risk. Wearing rubber soled boots increases your resistance decreasing current flow. The most dangerous way to get shocked is to take one phase in one hand and the other phase in the other hand. The current path is across your chest and you may die. This can happen with any voltage but the higher the voltage the greater the current flow and the greater the risk.
The tool is not part of the risk. The risks are voltage and resistance. That is what determines current flow and too much will hurt you and potentially kill you. We need to not do things that reduce the resistance of our bodies, do things which increase resistance, and be very careful around even 120 V but extra careful around 240V.
The tool is not part of the risk. The risks are voltage and resistance. That is what determines current flow and too much will hurt you and potentially kill you. We need to not do things that reduce the resistance of our bodies, do things which increase resistance, and be very careful around even 120 V but extra careful around 240V.
Upvote 0
With all the things in this world trying to kill me, a 220v Compressor is low on that list.
Upvote 0
Everything JimD states is spot on, as I’ve taken enough OSHA classes and OSHA train the trainer classes to verify. Although not an electrician, I’ve been on enough commercial construction jobs to see my fair share of electrical accidents. The worse one was a tweaker working for the fire proofing contractor was sweeping up the overspray left from coating the beams with the wet fireproofing. In his tweakfullness he decided to grab the ground clamp that was clamped onto a vertical H beam that the iron workers doing welding up above used for their ground. Yup, grabbed it with his bare hands while standing on wet ground. Let’s just say his instantly dead body went airborne for a few good feet, and as he lay there you saw smoke coming from each exploded hole out of both boot heels, not a stench I want to remember.
I’ve heard explosions come from electrical rooms where electricians accidentally put a tool into a hot panel that should’ve been disconnected, but sometimes people get lazy and think accidents won’t ever happen to them.
The two events I shared, were not from common 110v, #12 or #14 wiring/circuits, btw.
I’ll mention it again, I’m not an electrician, but I’ve wired my own house, and know enough to respect it. I heed all warnings, precautions, and for sure follow all instructions. I also plan for stupid people that may come and stay at my house. The last place I’d be asking any electrical advice/How to is on an open forum. No way. If I don’t know a procedure or code, I either buy electrical books and study or I contact one of many commercial electricians that I know.
Its not me I’m worried about so much if I miss a step or decide to take a shortcut like not run a hop over ground wire from copper pipe to copper pipe when installing a plastic in line whole house water filter(yes, a very easy step to neglect by a typical non tradesman homeowner), it’s my wife and son, who might accidentally touch the metal toaster that shorted and now I have no ground protection cause it got cut off with that filter(depending on how old your house is it was common practice for electricians to tie their ground onto the copper pipe your water runs through).
@ JimD- thanks for sharing your knowledge
I’ve heard explosions come from electrical rooms where electricians accidentally put a tool into a hot panel that should’ve been disconnected, but sometimes people get lazy and think accidents won’t ever happen to them.
The two events I shared, were not from common 110v, #12 or #14 wiring/circuits, btw.
I’ll mention it again, I’m not an electrician, but I’ve wired my own house, and know enough to respect it. I heed all warnings, precautions, and for sure follow all instructions. I also plan for stupid people that may come and stay at my house. The last place I’d be asking any electrical advice/How to is on an open forum. No way. If I don’t know a procedure or code, I either buy electrical books and study or I contact one of many commercial electricians that I know.
Its not me I’m worried about so much if I miss a step or decide to take a shortcut like not run a hop over ground wire from copper pipe to copper pipe when installing a plastic in line whole house water filter(yes, a very easy step to neglect by a typical non tradesman homeowner), it’s my wife and son, who might accidentally touch the metal toaster that shorted and now I have no ground protection cause it got cut off with that filter(depending on how old your house is it was common practice for electricians to tie their ground onto the copper pipe your water runs through).
@ JimD- thanks for sharing your knowledge
Last edited:
Upvote 0
All voltage can be dangerous. That is for sure. I was assuming we were talking about properly designed, and wired circuit's. Running a properly wired compressor using approved enclosure, wire and cord cap. Not wired by a Melvin. The leading fatalities in the US are household current. Probably because it is the most common and people making mistakes.
I am off to test 3 4160 200 HP motors this morning. I will be using 9320 volts. All will be safe because we will follow known safety practices with the proper clearances. Accidents happen a few weeks ago I got called to a 500KV substation to test a 230KV transformer that had been tripped line to ground because a goof that was told not to be in an area drove a buggy with a buggy whip under a 230kv buss. the circuit tripped, the buggy is toast and the 3 individuals did not get hurt. They may not have a job anymore.
If you don't know what you are doing get help by all means. But a properly designed UL listed appliance on a properly wired circuit isn't something to be scared of.
I am off to test 3 4160 200 HP motors this morning. I will be using 9320 volts. All will be safe because we will follow known safety practices with the proper clearances. Accidents happen a few weeks ago I got called to a 500KV substation to test a 230KV transformer that had been tripped line to ground because a goof that was told not to be in an area drove a buggy with a buggy whip under a 230kv buss. the circuit tripped, the buggy is toast and the 3 individuals did not get hurt. They may not have a job anymore.
If you don't know what you are doing get help by all means. But a properly designed UL listed appliance on a properly wired circuit isn't something to be scared of.
Upvote 0
I have 220 here for a Saw so i could get the 220 V but i voted for the 110 V unit because it is available most places .
If i remodeled or built a garage i would have to run 220v to that place .
If i remodeled or built a garage i would have to run 220v to that place .
Upvote 0