I ran one for a few years.. Yes I had to change the outlet for it.. But I had a extra 220 outlet to change the outlet to match.. Worked well..
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220 Volt Yong Heng?
- Thread starter Airgun Al
- Start date
I spent most of my career in high end residential eletrical work, I got out just in time to avoid the code madness!
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My code book is several generations old but the need for GFCI was by the area of the house, not any characteristic of the load. The garage and bathroom and outside outlets get GFCI. Maybe things have changed.
My YH does not pull more than 15A running. It probably does at startup. It is on a 20A circuit but it not nearly the only thing on that circuit. In addition, I started and ran it on a large Milwaukee power supply that only supplies 15A. It normally is plugged into a power strip with a 15A breaker on it. It has never tripped. It's a pretty decent sized load but not as big as other things I run at 120V (like my SawStop and my MIG welder). The power strip also has the water pump and a little 8 inch fan and small 120V fans for the radiator on it, all going through the 15A breaker. The extra loads are all quite small but substantiate that the running current is under 15A.
I think that people enamored with 220V service don't really understand electricity very well. 220V is just line to line instead of line to ground. It's still a single phase motor. The current is half as high but that is the only real difference. If you need more than 20A at 120V then you use 220V. If your load is less, and the YH is well under 20A, then you use 120V.
My YH does not pull more than 15A running. It probably does at startup. It is on a 20A circuit but it not nearly the only thing on that circuit. In addition, I started and ran it on a large Milwaukee power supply that only supplies 15A. It normally is plugged into a power strip with a 15A breaker on it. It has never tripped. It's a pretty decent sized load but not as big as other things I run at 120V (like my SawStop and my MIG welder). The power strip also has the water pump and a little 8 inch fan and small 120V fans for the radiator on it, all going through the 15A breaker. The extra loads are all quite small but substantiate that the running current is under 15A.
I think that people enamored with 220V service don't really understand electricity very well. 220V is just line to line instead of line to ground. It's still a single phase motor. The current is half as high but that is the only real difference. If you need more than 20A at 120V then you use 220V. If your load is less, and the YH is well under 20A, then you use 120V.
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Im wondering if anyone else has a 220 version of the Yong Heng, and if so, if they would examin the wire size of the included cord, and see what size of wireing Yong Heng sent with their 220 compressor. 
Years ago, I ordered a 110 Yong Heng, but received a 220 version.
I contacted the seller, and they allowed me to keep the 220 device for free, and promptly sent out a 110 version.
Whatever the reason, the seller did NOT want me to return the 220 compressor.
I suppose that the cost of return shipping, was greater than the cost of the compressor.
So I never even opened it, and have absolutely no money invested in it.
Worse case, it might be a great source for parts, for my 110 Y.H. version, with exception to the motor.
I never even opened it, and simply put the 220 compressor off to the side, unopened, thinking that the company might eventually want me to send it back, but they insisted that I keep it.
So it has sat for 4 or 5 years, unopened, in a dry basement.
I just recently opened it up for the very first time.
This Young Heng 220V compressor was brand new, was sealed, and clearly labeled as 220 volts.
Once I opened it up, and saw the cord, I thought maybe it was simply mis-labled, and possibly a 110 compressor afterall, despite it being labled as 220.
The 220 compressor cord looks exactly like a 110 cord.
The included water pump, (unlike the 110 version, plugs directly into the side of the Y.H)., is also labled as a 220 volt water pump.
I very briefly, and I do mean VERY briefly, plugged the compressor into a 110 outlet, and no surprise, it does not work on 110 volts.
Just a quiet "HUM" for noise.
So it seems to be correctly labled as a 220 compressor.
But it came with this very lightweight, 18 gauge, 300 volt cord that looks EXACTLY like a 110 cord, but will not fit a 220 outlet.
Now Im scrathching my head!
Im thinking that I could simply cut the male end off of the cord, purchase a correct plug to fit a 220 wall outlet, and be good to go, BUT...
BUT 18 gauge wire seems much too small for a 220 volt device.
WIREING IS WAY TOO LIGHTWEIGHT FOR 220 IN MY OPINION!
So I removed the compressors outer housing, and examined the wireing on the inside, that goes to the on/off switch...
It too looks to be very lightweight and probably 18 gauge as well.
Im just wondering if anyone else has a 220 version of the Yong Heng, and if so, if they would examin the wire size of their included cord, and see if they too have 18 gauge wireing.
Years ago, I ordered a 110 Yong Heng, but received a 220 version.
I contacted the seller, and they allowed me to keep the 220 device for free, and promptly sent out a 110 version.
Whatever the reason, the seller did NOT want me to return the 220 compressor.
I suppose that the cost of return shipping, was greater than the cost of the compressor.
So I never even opened it, and have absolutely no money invested in it.
Worse case, it might be a great source for parts, for my 110 Y.H. version, with exception to the motor.
I never even opened it, and simply put the 220 compressor off to the side, unopened, thinking that the company might eventually want me to send it back, but they insisted that I keep it.
So it has sat for 4 or 5 years, unopened, in a dry basement.
I just recently opened it up for the very first time.
This Young Heng 220V compressor was brand new, was sealed, and clearly labeled as 220 volts.
Once I opened it up, and saw the cord, I thought maybe it was simply mis-labled, and possibly a 110 compressor afterall, despite it being labled as 220.
The 220 compressor cord looks exactly like a 110 cord.
The included water pump, (unlike the 110 version, plugs directly into the side of the Y.H)., is also labled as a 220 volt water pump.
I very briefly, and I do mean VERY briefly, plugged the compressor into a 110 outlet, and no surprise, it does not work on 110 volts.
Just a quiet "HUM" for noise.
So it seems to be correctly labled as a 220 compressor.
But it came with this very lightweight, 18 gauge, 300 volt cord that looks EXACTLY like a 110 cord, but will not fit a 220 outlet.
Now Im scrathching my head!
Im thinking that I could simply cut the male end off of the cord, purchase a correct plug to fit a 220 wall outlet, and be good to go, BUT...
BUT 18 gauge wire seems much too small for a 220 volt device.
WIREING IS WAY TOO LIGHTWEIGHT FOR 220 IN MY OPINION!
So I removed the compressors outer housing, and examined the wireing on the inside, that goes to the on/off switch...
It too looks to be very lightweight and probably 18 gauge as well.
Im just wondering if anyone else has a 220 version of the Yong Heng, and if so, if they would examin the wire size of their included cord, and see if they too have 18 gauge wireing.
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Attachment cords are usually undersized being they are under 6' in length. Your compressor should draw, 7.5A @ 240V. I would make sure the supply breaker is a 2 - pole 15A. How long is the cord? You could also source another heavier cord that has the same female end. It looks like a computer monitor cord.
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A few options at your own discretion.
Female connector is a IEC C13
Female connector is a IEC C13
Leviton 15 Amp 125 V NEMA-6-15R Smooth Face Single Outlet/Receptacle, White (1-Pack) 05029-W 5029-W - The Home Depot
Leviton Commercial grade devices are built to the most demanding standards for performance and reliability. Ideal for heavily used areas in homes, offices, schools and commercial buildings. They are the
www.homedepot.com
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And this.
Leviton 15 Amp 250-Volt NEMA Industrial-Grade Straight Blade Plug, Black and White R50-05666-0CS - The Home Depot
Leviton's Black and White line of industrial grade plugs and connectors offer superior performance, long-lasting reliability and features that are backed by a lifetime warranty. Available in many NEMA
www.homedepot.com
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The Yong Heng included cord is about 5' in length, and the female end is labled as 250 Volt, and 10 A, while the cord itself is labled as 18 AWG and 300 V.
I agree, that it looks exactly like a common 110 v. , IEC computer, or guitar amplifier cord.
Im by no means an electrician, so when I saw the 110v style male end, and the small diameter cord, a red flag went off in my mind, as not being correct for a 220 outlet (true), and also not being large enough for 220V service (false).
But apparently, if I simply remove and change the male end to fit a 220 wall outlet, the 18 gauge cord will indeed be heavy enough ....I think!
I will then proceed with extreme caution, and if the compressor begins to spin properly, I will certainly monitor the temperature of the cord carefully for a while, especially when used for any extended period.
Thanks for your help!
MORAL OF THE STORY: If you order a 220V Yong Heng compressor, the cord will need to have the male end cut off, removed, and replaced with the proper 220V end!
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It seems likely that at least some YH compressors that are made for 220V are intended for Europe where that is the normal residential voltage. But Europe is also typically 50 Hz. The US is 60 Hz. The YH motor is an induction motor and the frequency makes a big difference. The speed will be wrong at the least and it may not run at all. Unless you know the 220V device is made for 60 Hz you should not just change the plug and plug it in.
Voltage makes a difference on the insulation of the wire but not the size of the conductor. Current is what determines the acceptable size of the conductor. Residential wire in the US can be used for 120V or 220V circuits, the insulation is plenty adequate for 220V.
The type of breaker on the circuit is determined when a house is built or major remodeling is done. Homeowners are not required to change out breakers or outlets based upon changes in the code (until and unless they are remodeling that area). My house is about 60 years old. I did one permitted remodel and during that remodel the areas we added had to meet then current code requirements. But the rest of the house did not. The outlets on the outside of my house were not GFCI protected nor were the older bathrooms. I don't think that is a very good idea so I changed it. But in my area, even with a remodel of other areas, I was not required to do this work. Local codes vary. I would be surprised to learn that there is a requirement anywhere in the US that if you plug in a water cooled compressor you have to change the outlet or breaker to a GFCI. But if it bothers you, GFCI outlets are not expensive or hard to install. GFCI breakers are probably more reliable but my house just has GFCI outlets. They should be the first outlet on a circuit and then they protect all the loads downstream.
Voltage makes a difference on the insulation of the wire but not the size of the conductor. Current is what determines the acceptable size of the conductor. Residential wire in the US can be used for 120V or 220V circuits, the insulation is plenty adequate for 220V.
The type of breaker on the circuit is determined when a house is built or major remodeling is done. Homeowners are not required to change out breakers or outlets based upon changes in the code (until and unless they are remodeling that area). My house is about 60 years old. I did one permitted remodel and during that remodel the areas we added had to meet then current code requirements. But the rest of the house did not. The outlets on the outside of my house were not GFCI protected nor were the older bathrooms. I don't think that is a very good idea so I changed it. But in my area, even with a remodel of other areas, I was not required to do this work. Local codes vary. I would be surprised to learn that there is a requirement anywhere in the US that if you plug in a water cooled compressor you have to change the outlet or breaker to a GFCI. But if it bothers you, GFCI outlets are not expensive or hard to install. GFCI breakers are probably more reliable but my house just has GFCI outlets. They should be the first outlet on a circuit and then they protect all the loads downstream.
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The GFCI idea came up on the fact if he had to run a new dedicated circuit to an area like a garage, etc. I now believe he will be using an existing circuit with some modifications, so it will depend on what area this will be located. Most motors are rated for both 50 and 60Hz, and for some reason his is not, It will just run faster @ 60Hz. Maybe a 150ish rpm difference.
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I would not run a motor designed for 50hz at 60hz. It will run 20% faster which will increase centrifugal forces but will also increase power. But that means it will need more cooling which may not increase depending on the design of the fan. If you know that the motor is designed for either frequency that would be different but I have never seen a motor rated for either 50 or 60 hz. I really doubt the Yong Heng motor works that way. I think it is far better just to use a YH intended for the power supply you have.
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His is probably not, but we have plenty at our facilities. They are out there!
Also, a lot of electronics are rated for both. I do agree you should be using it on the system it was designed for, but were talking about a budget compressor here.
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The motor he has may also be dual voltage. 110/220 if it has the taps. It would be cheaper for the manufacturer to make them this way instead of making two separate motors.
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I agree that some motors can be changed from 110 to 220V by switching a wire or two. I've owned one before, I may have some now. But I cannot imagine a good reason to change a properly functioning 110V YH to 220V even it if is easy to do. There is just no significant advantage of running at the higher voltage.
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Meaning he might be able to change it to 110V and just utilize a laundry receptacle or such.
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I only have one 220 outlet. Its out in my shop, and gets used daily for a welder and a normal automotive style air compressor. I feel no need to update or change the outlet, as its been working great for years.
I had the outer "shell" off of the 220 Hong Yeng compressor a few days ago, and examined everything inside. I wish I had taken photos. I may disassemble it again, take photos, and take another look inside. But as I recall, the wires inside are also relatively small diameter and probably 18 gauge as well. I do not recall, seeing any markings anywhere inside that indicate or suggest 110 useage.
The 220 yong heng compressor is a little different than the 110 version.
The 220 version has a dedicated outlet built into the side of the compressor, that the water pump plugs into.
The included water pump is clearly labled 220.
The 110 version compressor has no power outlet on the compressor, and so the water pump plugs directly into an additional wall outlet, and not the compressor itself.
If I needed parts, I would simply keep this 220 compressor for parts.
But it is brand new, and I do not need parts!
I am not an electrician, but I do have a Fluke multi meter, and may attempt to determine if the compresors motor is designed for 50hz or 60hz.
Im scratching my head as to why Yong Heng, would ship 220v compressors in the U.S.A. , with a power cord that looks identical to a 110 power cord. ??? And if this compressor was intended for the Europeon market, I would expect that the male end would not exactly resemble a common 110v., that is commonly utilized in North America....Maybe I am wrong here???
To be perfectly honest, simply cutting off the male end of the INCLUDED 18 AWG power cord, and changing it over to a 220v. male end that properly fits my wall outlet, dosent sound like a great idea. However, this just might be the proper solution.
Again, this brand new compressor would make an excellent source for parts, but I do not need any parts!
I had the outer "shell" off of the 220 Hong Yeng compressor a few days ago, and examined everything inside. I wish I had taken photos. I may disassemble it again, take photos, and take another look inside. But as I recall, the wires inside are also relatively small diameter and probably 18 gauge as well. I do not recall, seeing any markings anywhere inside that indicate or suggest 110 useage.
The 220 yong heng compressor is a little different than the 110 version.
The 220 version has a dedicated outlet built into the side of the compressor, that the water pump plugs into.
The included water pump is clearly labled 220.
The 110 version compressor has no power outlet on the compressor, and so the water pump plugs directly into an additional wall outlet, and not the compressor itself.
If I needed parts, I would simply keep this 220 compressor for parts.
But it is brand new, and I do not need parts!
I am not an electrician, but I do have a Fluke multi meter, and may attempt to determine if the compresors motor is designed for 50hz or 60hz.
Im scratching my head as to why Yong Heng, would ship 220v compressors in the U.S.A. , with a power cord that looks identical to a 110 power cord. ??? And if this compressor was intended for the Europeon market, I would expect that the male end would not exactly resemble a common 110v., that is commonly utilized in North America....Maybe I am wrong here???
To be perfectly honest, simply cutting off the male end of the INCLUDED 18 AWG power cord, and changing it over to a 220v. male end that properly fits my wall outlet, dosent sound like a great idea. However, this just might be the proper solution.
Again, this brand new compressor would make an excellent source for parts, but I do not need any parts!
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That male plug must be a Chinese thing. I had a neighbor years back bought 3 small 220V machines directly from China and they had the same configuration as our 120V plugs. Definitely strange. From what you had described, it doesn't sound like you would be able to change taps to run it on 120V. What's the amperage of your 240V receptacle. If your using it for a welder, I would assume it's at least 30A. I wouldn't run this compressor on anything over 15A @ 240V. If the compressor motor overload fails and there is a locked rotor, the wiring on the motor, etc. would burn well before a 30A breaker would trip. It has to be fused correctly. Be safe.
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