Skout .25 Skout Epoch
- Thread starter Centercut
- Start date
bigHUN, do yourself a favor and call Darryl at Skout Guns in PA, that is where they assemble and you may get a deal. That is what I did and glad I made the call. Thanks, Scotty1.
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I have had my Skout .30 cal for alittle over a month now. Really enjoy shooting it.
I have had a air leak that I can't seem to find, I have read these posts and reread them making sure I didn't miss something obvious, usually I have been able to find remedies for problems I have encountered on this forum.
I have resealed the fill check valve, inspected seals on both regs, tried the liquid bubble detection, bottle valve shut off it leaks about 1000 psi overnight from the gun not the bottle.
It doesn't seem to effect guns performance other than me behind the gun.
Like most things that leak, it doesn't get better.
Currently waiting for some digital gauges to replace the originals.
Any thoughts or sequence of items to check?
Thanks
Carl
I have had a air leak that I can't seem to find, I have read these posts and reread them making sure I didn't miss something obvious, usually I have been able to find remedies for problems I have encountered on this forum.
I have resealed the fill check valve, inspected seals on both regs, tried the liquid bubble detection, bottle valve shut off it leaks about 1000 psi overnight from the gun not the bottle.
It doesn't seem to effect guns performance other than me behind the gun.
Like most things that leak, it doesn't get better.
Currently waiting for some digital gauges to replace the originals.
Any thoughts or sequence of items to check?
Thanks
Carl
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A call to Skout is a good idea but in the meantime try this or call Skout if unsure. On your HP reg remove MFE107 and the whole bottom end of the reg (springs, etc.) Leave in the reg body or put back in if you need to remove to get MFE107 out. Refill with air and see if you still get a leak. If you do it is probably the o ring on MFE105 which is part of MFE106 (they screw together). The seal is on MFE 105 and seats onto MFE 104 to seal off the poppet.The components you left off are just for setting reg pressure and bleeding it off. Also, I would still recommend you de-gas the regs between shooting sessions. HP will bleed off but you need to fire off the valve a few times to bleed the plenum. No big deal really. Skout will take care of you either way.
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Thanks I'll give it a shot. I haven't been in valve or solenoid area yet.
Agree with the de-gas when not in use, seems to be the norm.
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I had a similar leak inside the HP regulator.
When i De-gassed the system to store the rifle, there was a blast of air escaping from the bottom of the HP regulator when i re-charged the system. I could stop the leaking by doing an adjustment on the HP dial...a quick turn right/left, and the rifle perfomed as normal.
The problem was the poppet(MFE 105) ..this was determined by the process you have described, but i must say it freaked me out to hear i should take apart 1/2 of the hp regulator and then turn on the bottle!! But. after the 1/2 was removed and the rifle was aired, air was escaping from that area. The only fix is a replacement of the entire poppet. A phone call later, and the parts are on the way.
I must say that removing the piston(MFE107) was difficult for me because i was scared to scratch or damage the piston. I found that the easier way to remove the piston is to first remove the top(MFE103) and the poppet assembly. You can then use the blunt end of a bamboo skewer to push the piston out without marring the surface.
This is a very intriguing rifle. Still need to learn more about the dwell settings as they pertain to long and short barrels and ammo choice. I am really glad i changed from voice mode to a tonal mode...While the voice is really fun in the beginning, it gets irksome after a short time.
back to testing
Mike
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It's actually easy to take apart and they have made some incremental improvements since launch. The regs come right out after degass, pulling the safety clip and unscrewing with a 5/8 socket on the HP and 3/16 on the LP. To get out MFE 107 it may be easier to unscrew the reg housing, pull out and take off the top with the proper supplied allen key(imperial). You can then push out from the top with a non marring pick or similar. Compared to my long gone FX Impact this is an easy process once you do it a few times.
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Update on my leak problem. I followed the steps DanT55 outlined, no leak at this point, proceeded to the LP reg, went back thru it, still no luck.
Went to the solenoid, removed and found the 2 O-rings SK-OB7007 they were black in color and felt soft compared to the white O-rings in parts box.
Installed white O-rings and has held pressure for about 6 hrs now, I think it is fixed, let it sit overnight, but feel it will be good.
Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions that was given, hope this little tidbit helps someone else down the line.
Went to the solenoid, removed and found the 2 O-rings SK-OB7007 they were black in color and felt soft compared to the white O-rings in parts box.
Installed white O-rings and has held pressure for about 6 hrs now, I think it is fixed, let it sit overnight, but feel it will be good.
Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions that was given, hope this little tidbit helps someone else down the line.
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Nice work!
Looks like that is on the Mac valve assembly. Once confirmed I would depressurize by firing off the solenoid so the LP side is at zero while not shooting. From my research NBR (black o rings) typically have better compression set resistance than PU O rings but may not be as tough or wear resistant. I also think the OB7007 means Buna, 70 duro, size -07. Any oring part with a U in it is a urethane material, either 70 or 90. Keep us posted on your final results. Got the Epoch .25 slug barrel kit in today. It is significantly beefier than the standard set up and pretty much fills up the carbon shroud it fits in. Comes with its own barrel nut and chamber nut to accommodate. The slugs are really really nice and well packed. Finish and form factor is also impressive. Ill try to get some more pics up later when I have time but here are the two barrels side by side. Slug barrel is about 13mm in diameter vs 9.6mm for the standard and around the carbon sleeve it is 16mm and 12.5mm respectively. It is very rigid and solid.
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Centercut, I noticed in your pics you are using what appears to be the Saber Tactical rear rest. Have you had any problems covering the large targets RMAC and EBR uses? Especially moving from sighters to scoring bulls.
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It easily covers the entire target. It would cover the EBR target if the target was twice that size. You get used to moving the windage with the heel of your left hand and the elevation with your fingers. It’s not as fast as a front joystick, but it’s acceptable. I added 15 one ounce wheel weights to the bottom of mine to add some weight and stability.
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So I get home after post #357, and my new 25mm digital gauges were in the mail. The ones on there are good, but 28mm and stick out too far.
After depressurizing the breech block, I replaced both bottle and HP plenum pressure gauges. I left the LP gauge factory.
When I pressurized the block - surprise - the HP reg leaked through the middle as it has done about 3 or 4 times in the past. It hasn’t done that in quite a while since I replaced the Polyurethane orings with BunaN, but leaky is back. Hard to be disappointed the way it’s shooting in .30 caliber. Might have done well at the NAC, but that’s kinda far from San Diego.
After depressurizing the breech block, I replaced both bottle and HP plenum pressure gauges. I left the LP gauge factory.
When I pressurized the block - surprise - the HP reg leaked through the middle as it has done about 3 or 4 times in the past. It hasn’t done that in quite a while since I replaced the Polyurethane orings with BunaN, but leaky is back. Hard to be disappointed the way it’s shooting in .30 caliber. Might have done well at the NAC, but that’s kinda far from San Diego.
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