$335 for a 9mm SPA/Artemis/Snowpeak M25

Anyone has a photo of the plenum tube to share for the 7.62/9mm?
I have the .25 cal and i want to confirm that the bigger tube it will fit this one.

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The .35 plenum threads will fit the .25 and the other way around

not my pictures

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Has anyone got aftermarket barrels. Determined mine is actually bent an thats what is causing the clipping of the moderator. I talked to loth but they wont do the machining on the barrel blanks. An we dont have any smiths local to me to have them doit. So id rather just order one thats good to go

Yes but not me i forgot what he was using for sure it was a FX barrel with a carbon shroud but it needed some work before it would fit!


Only have the pictures for now cant find the post he made about if he also sold it not long ago, if you want i can try to search some more but it's not a direct fit you need to do some milling work on the barrel or the gun itself i can't remember.

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Has anyone got aftermarket barrels. Determined mine is actually bent an thats what is causing the clipping of the moderator. I talked to loth but they wont do the machining on the barrel blanks. An we dont have any smiths local to me to have them doit. So id rather just order one thats good to go
If there is a lathe accessible somewhere. Straight ing barrel between centers pretty easy . Put indicator on high spot and hit the high spot. For real its easy.
 
I noticed when i got the M25 that the grip wasn't pleasant to hold. Not enough room for my index finger because the triggerguard is to close to the grip.
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I moved the triggerguard forward so that you can hold the pistolgrip correctly.
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I had to grind somthing of the trigger to make it fit.
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Much better like this.
 
That barrel porting is one bad design if making power is your goal. You have any pictures of internals? Valvebody and tp?
I alwas tho this M25 is just new remake of M10/M11. That regchamber volume sure is also big limiting factor. Also how is that bolt locking? Hopefully with something different than it was with M10/11 ( one M4 12.9 bolt that had high risk of snapping) especially now when they sell it as 9mm.
Hi

The M25 uses a M5 12.9 screw. But that is not sufficient for the .35 version if you would ask me.

After a couple of 100 shots I got problems cocking the bolt. It got stuck.
I took it apart and discovered the folowing.

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There where the locking bolt locks in the action, the material got disformed because of the forces.
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The M5 12.9 bolt is also not straight anymore, a big risk of snapping of and than the risk of getting the cockingbolt in your face when your shooting.
 
Hi

The M25 uses a M5 12.9 screw. But that is not sufficient for the .35 version if you would ask me.

After a couple of 100 shots I got problems cocking the bolt. It got stuck.
I took it apart and discovered the folowing.

View attachment 327280View attachment 327281View attachment 327282

There where the locking bolt locks in the action, the material got disformed because of the forces.
View attachment 327283View attachment 327284

The M5 12.9 bolt is also not straight anymore, a big risk of snapping of and than the risk of getting the cockingbolt in your face when your shooting.
Just exactly what Iv been warning ppl about. If that snaps it can cause serious injury or fatality. I have my 223cal spa M10 modified with double locking points. I milled L shape rail on bolt and added 6mm solid locking axel on upperframe. Better to have two points of locking than just one but some others have fixed that by reinforcing that one point.

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Hey do you think I could get a regulator n from say a 35 cal snow peak and install on my umarex airsaber. It looks likes.its identical action. It would be nice to have regulated shots on Airsaber!!!! Thanks for your time
Hi

I don't know how the Umarex is build, so I can't help you with that.
The build of the M25 regulator is the same as in the Snowpeak PP750.

Gr
 
Just exactly what Iv been warning ppl about. If that snaps it can cause serious injury or fatality. I have my 223cal spa M10 modified with double locking points. I milled L shape rail on bolt and added 6mm solid locking axel on upperframe. Better to have two points of locking than just one but some others have fixed that by reinforcing that one point.

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I did something different to solve the problem.
Have no time now so I will post it tomorrow.
 
Und weiter.


I grind the ends of the hammerspring and polished them.
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Also made a hammerspring guide out of Delrin.
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Made a shotstring using the JSB Exact .35 in M/s
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Great numbers and I am pleased with them.

One of the beter groups at 50 meters.
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I shot the best results of a sandbag because a bipod isn't working well for grouping.
Also without any part of the silincer. Also because of beter groups without it.
 
Like I said the grouping with silencer are worse then without.
So I thougt that the solution would be to drill out the silencer parts. Only used two.
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But it dit not work. Still bad grouping.
The problem is that without the two silencer parts the barrel is shorter then the aircilinder.
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It aint pretty. The solition is to shorten the aircilinder by 73mm, so that the barrel is 1cm longer then the aircilinder.

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