I just got a used one, it's in the mail as we speak can't wait to take it apart and start modifying it.
Upvote 0
$335 for a 9mm SPA/Artemis/Snowpeak M25
- Thread starter Picard
- Start date
His other videos seem to show that he's getting about 230 joules out of it, in that configuration.
Upvote 0
Yes, i was wondering about that also. In general i would think this is a poor idea, as the load on for example the valve would also be much higher than it was designed for. I can't imagine this would be conducive to the rifle having a long operating life, even if the bolt somehow doesnt work itself loose and injure you.
Speaking of valves, i've taken my M25 entirely apart, and am looking to polish the valve seat. The core and seat seem to be turned to an angle of 60 degrees inclusive. I don't have a lathe at the moment, but i do know that you can buy small dead centers for lathes for very little money. They just happen to also be ground to a precise angle of 60 degrees, and are hardened steel, so this seems a good tool to have for maintenance.
Unfortunately though it does seem that the body of the valve is glued into the tube, so it cannot be easily removed and serviced, and has to be worked on in situ. Has anyone here managed to work on this part of the action? I'm curious to hear what your experience is.
I guess it would be possible to heat that section to loosen the glue bond, and perhaps to replace the valve seat entirely, but i am concerned about heat reducing the strength of the aluminium part. I just don't know enough about metallurgy to judge whether this is a dumb idea or not.
Speaking of valves, i've taken my M25 entirely apart, and am looking to polish the valve seat. The core and seat seem to be turned to an angle of 60 degrees inclusive. I don't have a lathe at the moment, but i do know that you can buy small dead centers for lathes for very little money. They just happen to also be ground to a precise angle of 60 degrees, and are hardened steel, so this seems a good tool to have for maintenance.
Unfortunately though it does seem that the body of the valve is glued into the tube, so it cannot be easily removed and serviced, and has to be worked on in situ. Has anyone here managed to work on this part of the action? I'm curious to hear what your experience is.
I guess it would be possible to heat that section to loosen the glue bond, and perhaps to replace the valve seat entirely, but i am concerned about heat reducing the strength of the aluminium part. I just don't know enough about metallurgy to judge whether this is a dumb idea or not.
Upvote 0
I worked on reshaping the grip by the trigger guard yesterday. I think it was designed for a very small hand lol. I opened it up with a cutter on my Dremel and then finished it off with some 220 grit. It's not exactly how I would like it but it doesn't crowd my second finger quite as bad now.
Upvote 0
That's what got me motivated to do what I did. That mod isn't off the list. I was able to get a fair amount of relief per day but moving the guard forward would put the icing on the cake. Looks like I need to go back and re-read what you did.
Upvote 0
Hello again my friend Picard, I’d like you to give me some of your knowledge again!
I want to do the “small internal work” you did and move up to 220 fpe!
How could I do that?
Do you want me to send you my number in private message to talk via viber or WhatsApp?
Upvote 0