.35 Air Bolts for the .357 Benjamin Bulldog

@AirArcher66 I’m thinking that it may not be a fluke mistake on my part. Yesterday I used a bipod for a rest. Today I simply knelt without a rest other than my elbow on my knee. If you look at the photos he POI pattern looks similar.
Yeah something funky going on there, when I was shooting bolts out of my Claw .50 I could not even think about shooting groups because I would just keep busting arrows

Anyway,...if anything concentrate on your first shot and make sure that one is on POI all the time,...deer hunting you only need one shot.
 
@AirArcher66 Spread, is that even qualified to be called a spread? 😆 But I have some ideas to get it sorted.

The first shot is money with a slug. How do you think these bolts would do? Think that first shot would’ve broken its spine or incapacitated the deer? I’m thinking if the trocar tip hits bone its gonna bowl through it or crack it good.
 
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@AirArcher66 Spread, is that even qualified to be called a spread? 😆 But I have some ideas to get it sorted.

The first shot is money with a slug. How do you think these bolts would do? Think that first shot would’ve broken its spine or incapacitated the deer?
Yeah but is that shot always going to be there or next time is 5" up and left ?.......yeah that was the spread that kills all spreads :ROFLMAO:
 
Yeah but is that shot always going to be there or next time is 5" up and left ?.......yeah that was the spread that kills all spreads :ROFLMAO:
@AirArcher66 That is the question. I’m going to say no……….for now. I can look at pictures of targets and see something that appears to be shaping up as a pattern. I’d like to go over the data and photos again. I do know that the first shot was up and left on the target with the deer. I was aiming for heart and lung area and it hit in the spine/base of neck area. If that were an actual deer and he had time to drop (to run) at the crack of the shot before impact the bolt probably would’ve flown over its back. The other holes on the deer target are passthrough holes from the target painted on the opposite side. From the photos I’m obviously not ready to be taking 50 yard shots on live game with this setup yet. I intend to continue to work through the issues. I very well may be the reason for pulling shots to the left, but the vertical drop concerns me.

I am not doing much more target shooting with these broadheads until I can find some square bales of hay to use for a backstop. With every shot being a passthrough on my broadhead target and my production of wayward shots like the second shot and the low and left shots through the plywood. I definitely don’t wish to tear up any more (fletching on my) bolts or broadhead blades by punching through my plywood backstop. Although doing so demonstrates the potential punching power and penetration of these trocar tipped broadheads coupled with .35 Seneca air bolts and my .357 Bulldog. This is still a work in progress.
 
I found this in the bottom of the air bolts box.

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Safety,
I know it doesn't happen often but if for some reasons the valve gives in ( you hear stories of guns just letting all the air out ) I don't want a broadhead anywhere near my hand.
I acually even take the air tube off, place the arrow in the barrel ( the insert has to rest on the crown and I have a gap of about 1/2" from valve to nock ) then I screw the broadhead on and the replace the airtube
 
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Safety,
I know it doesn't happen often but if for some reasons the valve gives in ( you hear stories of guns just letting all the air out ) I don't want a broadhead anywhere near my hand.
I acually even take the air tube off, place the arrow in the barrel ( the insert has to rest on the crown ) then I screw the broadhead on and the replace the airtube
@AirArcher66 I dealt with an air dump once. Not cool, but if the cocking lever hadn’t been engaged not an issue.
 
@AirArcher66 After thinking about it a bit longer my issue is this. The Seneca .35 bolts are not long enough to load seating the nock against or directly in front of the valve in a .357 Benjamin Bulldog. Because of this the bolt must be loaded leaving enough room for the insert to remain outside of the end of the shroud in order to remove a field tip so that a broadhead can be affixed. In this situation if you don’t carefully remove the field tip, you can push the bolt down too far into the shroud where you can not get a bite on the insert with the broadhead threads. Then you have a problem and without the correct machine screw or tool to screw in to pull it out some you’d have an untipped bolt in your Bulldog barrel. I’m thinking more so in terms of loading a field tipped bolt and sling-carrying an uncocked rifle to a blind, stand, or post. I imagine it is a hassle to remove a bolt from your quiver and attempt to load it in the event that you cross paths with or come up on a deer (or group) that can be stalked for a shot while on your way to your stand.

However inconvenient, loading just before taking the shot seems ideal concerning safety. I’m just curious as to how one would do this without wasting much time or spooking deer that are in range. That is a significant amount of movement that would also take practice to do without rattling or banging things around in the least bit.
 
@AirArcher66 After thinking about it a bit longer my issue is this. The Seneca .35 bolts are not long enough to load seating the nock against or directly in front of the valve in a .357 Benjamin Bulldog. Because of this the bolt must be loaded leaving enough room for the insert to remain outside of the end of the shroud in order to remove a field tip so that a broadhead can be affixed. In this situation if you don’t carefully remove the field tip, you can push the bolt down too far into the shroud where you can not get a bite on the insert with the broadhead threads. Then you have a problem and without the correct machine screw or tool to screw in to pull it out some you’d have an untipped bolt in your Bulldog barrel. I’m thinking more so in terms of loading a field tipped bolt and sling-carrying an uncocked rifle to a blind, stand, or post. I imagine it is a hassle to remove a bolt from your quiver and attempt to load it in the event that you cross paths with or come up on a deer (or group) that can be stalked for a shot while on your way to your stand.

However inconvenient, loading just before taking the shot seems ideal concerning safety. I’m just curious as to how one would do this without wasting much time or spooking deer that are in range. That is a significant amount of movement that would also take practice to do without rattling or banging things around in the least bit.
Ho well, there's your accuracy problem then ;
the insert needs to be sitting in the crown to be accurate

I walk with the arrow in the gun, put it inat the beginning of the hunt
 
Ho well, there's your accuracy problem then ;
the insert needs to be sitting in the crown to be accurate

I walk with the arrow in the gun, put it inat the beginning of the hunt
@AirArcher66 I was speaking of the need to leave the insert out to have some room to remove the field tip in order to affix a broadhead if not walking with a bolt/broadhead loaded. The Bulldog’s shroud demands this type of room to swap tips. I have a broadhead loaded now. Because it rests upon the shroud (the way I load them) it’s easy to grab and swap that way, but with field tips once they’re down in the shroud, I’m not quite sure how to get the bolts with field tips out without shooting them.
 
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@AirArcher66 I was speaking of the need to leave the insert out to have some room to remove the field tip in order to affix a broadhead if not walking with a bolt/broadhead loaded. The Bulldog’s shroud demands this type of room to swap tips. I have a broadhead loaded now. Because it rests upon the shroud (the way I load them) it’s easy to grab and swap that way, but with field tips once they’re down in the shroud, I’m not quite sure how to get the bolts with field tips out without shooting them.
Ahhh sorry missread your post.
yeah definitely a bit of a problem, that's why I prefer guns with the barrel free for Bolts.
 
Let me preface this by saying this isn’t the result I was looking for, BUT I’m convinced that this rifle is capable of doing the job.

I was out on a squirrel hunt but made it a point to grab my deer rifle as well. That was a pain toting two rifles and a pair of binos with no chest pack while maneuvering in and out of undergrowth. I spotted a group of about 8 deer while posting in proximity of one of their routes in a mature oak stand where they eat and travel through.

Here is where I posted.
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The deer came out of the treeline about 55-65 yards out. When the one I wanted got within 45-50 yards I took a shot with my .35 Seneca Air Bolt that I’d had loaded in the barrel for several days. It was fitted with a Sykd Endurance Hunter trocar 100 grain broadhead for a total of 375 grains. I admit I got excited when I saw the deer eating acorns before taking my shot. I lined up the reticle dead center for the lower shoulder and missed!! I’d forgotten to use my holdover! 😡 It cost me a bolt and the arrowhead was lodged too deep into the trunk to retrieve. Notice how the fletching is still curled from being in the barrel so long and being in 30 some-odd degree temps fora few hours. It still flew pretty straight.
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Here’s a photo of the damaged part of the bolt.
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There was also fur on the nock and a patch of fur to the left of the tree.
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View from the bolt to my post (by the red arrow).
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I had to have barely grazed her on the belly. I’m absolutely confident that this broadhead will smash a deer, bones and all.

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@MartMan Happy to share some of what I've learned. When you begin exploring shooting air bolts from the Bullbog platform drop in and let us know things go for you. I'm especially curious to see how the M357 will handle them. The .357 Bulldog shoots these bolts very well once you figure out good bolt/broadhead combination(s) and methods that work best for you.
 
For example with my Claw .50 It would shoot 6 arrows at low power with a completely flat string somewhere in the 380 fps ( cannot remember the exact nombers ) and the arrows where in the 450+ gr range ,...again cannot remamber the exact number ( need to pull out an old thread on GTA to check exactly )
This from Pyramid air at full power.
Air Venturi Air Bolt, 6 pack

  • 0.50" Caliber bolt
  • Velocity up to 500 fps (when used in Seneca Dragon Claw)
  • Power up to 238 FPE (when used in Seneca Dragon Claw)
  • 430 grains including 100 grain field tip
  • Overall length 23"
  • 300 Spine
  • Constructed from 100% Hi-Modulus Carbon Fiber
  • 6 Air Bolts per package
I get the same speeds from my wingshot as the Dragon Claw but not as many shots. I have not had a problem with the vains but I don't have any rifling. I like to put just a dab of food grade silicon greasy on the o-ring on the knock. I had to stop shooting mine until I can get a better target because I was using the two targets I have back to back and was still totally burying them in the targets and I did not want to ruin the vains. Anyways good job, looks like you are having lots of fun with them.
 
For example with my Claw .50 It would shoot 6 arrows at low power with a completely flat string somewhere in the 380 fps
You guys inspired me to try mine again. I used low power out to 30 yards and then high power at 40 and had a ball. I could not do well at 50 with my red dot but it is me not the gun or arrows, I have a messed up eye. I guess I will get 1x5 scope for it. Anyways thanks guys this thread really helped me out and I had some fun as well.