FWB 55 yard shooting problems with FWB 124D

Shot at home at 20 yards with the FWB 124D and got cloverleaf groups with several pellets. Tried the best shooting pellets from home at the gun range at 55 yards (max range for gunslyger) with non windy conditions and got 5 out 20 hits on a 8" paper plate. I shot over a sand bag close to the trigger guard with a sock over it and tried to duplicate what I did at home. I did notice after the shot that the barrel swung to the right. Do not member that much movement at home. I heard you need to keep the guns steady on target till the shot cycle is over. Any advice what I am doing wrong? I think I am going to pretend I am blind with a crippled right hand when I compete in the Gunslynger competition at the Pyramid Cup.
 
Shot at home at 20 yards with the FWB 124D and got cloverleaf groups with several pellets. Tried the best shooting pellets from home at the gun range at 55 yards (max range for gunslyger) with non windy conditions and got 5 out 20 hits on a 8" paper plate. I shot over a sand bag close to the trigger guard with a sock over it and tried to duplicate what I did at home. I did notice after the shot that the barrel swung to the right. Do not member that much movement at home. I heard you need to keep the guns steady on target till the shot cycle is over. Any advice what I am doing wrong? I think I am going to pretend I am blind with a crippled right hand when I compete in the Gunslynger competition at the Pyramid Cup.
Check your screws and make sure they are tight. I have always found the 124d to be hold sensitive
 
Sorry for the dumb question... What pellets are you shooting? Wadcutters? I ask because in my case I shoot mostly wadcutters with my FWB124 at 25 yards. Accuracy is good, but I suspect if I went to 50 yards accuracy would be poor.

On a side note, but maybe somehow related, I have this to happen with my FWB124: I have tried several telescopic sights (I mean several!! Big and small!!), and my accuracy is terrible. In the end I installed a diopter sight and with it the accuracy is good. I don’t know why. Maybe the scope’s weight or place interferes with a good balance? Maybe... The point is, as the other forum member said, this gun is hold sensitive. A “highly idiosyncratic” gun...
 
Sorry for the dumb question... What pellets are you shooting? Wadcutters? I ask because in my case I shoot mostly wadcutters with my FWB124 at 25 yards. Accuracy is good, but I suspect if I went to 50 yards accuracy would be poor.

On a side note, but maybe somehow related, I have this to happen with my FWB124: I have tried several telescopic sights (I mean several!! Big and small!!), and my accuracy is terrible. In the end I installed a diopter sight and with it the accuracy is good. I don’t know why. Maybe the scope’s weight or place interferes with a good balance? Maybe... The point is, as the other forum member said, this gun is hold sensitive. A “highly idiosyncratic” gun...
"Tried the best shooting pellets "

Try some cphp.. do fine for me. 😉

Thats kinda drastic spread from 20 to 50y .. them cheap sad daisy pointed i get a 7" flyers , but ...

Shooting stock irons @50y. Cphp.177
backonirons,r9.jpg

Id check the usual screws tight and give the barrel a good cleaning ... If nothing else crony some shot strings and see how thats looking ..
 
Shot at home at 20 yards with the FWB 124D and got cloverleaf groups with several pellets. Tried the best shooting pellets from home at the gun range at 55 yards (max range for gunslyger) with non windy conditions and got 5 out 20 hits on a 8" paper plate. I shot over a sand bag close to the trigger guard with a sock over it and tried to duplicate what I did at home. I did notice after the shot that the barrel swung to the right. Do not member that much movement at home. I heard you need to keep the guns steady on target till the shot cycle is over. Any advice what I am doing wrong? I think I am going to pretend I am blind with a crippled right hand when I compete in the Gunslynger competition at the Pyramid Cup.
Someone was kind enough to develop a generic standardized Springer not grouping checklist. ....wait ....that was me. I'm sure there's some expert out there that could add to this list.

A standard Springer NOT Grouping Checklist


1. check all the screws including scope screws (snug them up, and locktite them if they keep loosening)
2. tissue test (possible breech seal issues)
3. chrono the gun (is it consistent? if not, look at piston seal, spring, excessive lube to no lube, )
4. Clean your barrel.
5. Try quality pellets, Crosman CPH, CPL, JSB, H&N, RWS, etc, Try different weight pellets
6. lighten your trigger (be careful with this one)
7. Tune/detune your rifle (detuning might make it more pleasant to shoot and help you manage recoil thus shrinking your group)
8. check your crown and leade (for guns with moderators, check for clipping)
9. Troubleshoot possible scope issue (Shoot open sight to check if the scope is busted, swap scopes, mount a laser then use your scope to double check POI shifts).
10. Try the artillery hold and try not to shoot your gun resting on a solid rest/tripod (a hand under the forearm, softer padding? might help). Really be consistent on rifle positioning, your position and trigger control. Shoot at 10 yards first to get good grouping before going to longer yardages. For me, if I can't group around 3/8" at 10 yards, I tweaks things until I see good groupings.
--
Edit
re-arranged the checklist 1-8 are rifle relate, 9 -scope, 10-you.
Wanted to add 11...shoot indoors to eliminate environmental conditions but item 10 already suggested to shoot at 10 yards...that should eliminate wind effect...temp...hmm (but 10 is such a perfect number)
 
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Shooting premiers, JSB exacts, H&N silver jets and H&N FT 4.51, 5 shot each at a different circle on the plate. Could not check each group as a guy with a firearm would not take a break. Maybe it was just one of them that hit all 5 but doubt it. I will try again at different ranges and use a splatter target so I can see the hits. . I did check the screws. I did not shoot closer ranges that day so that would have helped. I think it must be my hold but maybe my sand bag/sock arrangement was different. Not doing the GunSlynger competion so I got more time till 2024 cup. Thanks for the replies.
 
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Having the same problem now with my backup TX. It was grouping...then started shifting. Then group...then shift back.(same shooting session). It's driving me crazy.
I need to run the NOT grouping checklist to isolate the problem(s)
--
Edit
Temp was around 72 degrees

Just chrono the gun...hmmm cheap Chinese chrono...(sorry m/s only, 8.64 grain H&N) 227.1, 227.1, 223.7, 226.3, 225.5, 230.2, 225, 224.2, 227.2, 223.7, 224.7. Extreme spread = 6.5 m/s = 21.35 ft/s...hmm SD = 1.9...not really sure what all these mean...sure hate to see extreme spread at 21.35 ft/s coupled with POI shifts (could be shooter error...or other things). very unusual to see such a hight extreme spread with a Tony Leach set up...unless it was high outside temp...(I need an infra red thermometer).

Should have checked all the screws first...will update next time. (conclusion...probably not done tracking down the culprits yet...most likely shooter error)
--
Edit 2
Checked the screws. All tight/snug.
Swap out the scope. Sighted-in another scope and the POI shifts disappeared. Problem solved? We'll see... more shooting tomorrow.

You might just be right in post #11...We'll shoot some more and see if the POI shifts returns.
 
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Someone was kind enough to develop a generic standardized Springer not grouping check list. ....wait ....that was me. I'm sure there's some expert out there that could add to this.

A standard Springer NOT Grouping Check List


1. check all the screws including scope screws (snug them up, and locktite them if they keep loosening)
2. tissue test (possible breech seal issues)
3. chrono the gun (is it consistent? if not, look at piston seal, spring, excessive lube to no lube, )
4. Troubleshoot possible scope issue (Shoot open sight to check if the scope is busted, swap scopes, mount a laser then use your scope to double check POI shifts).
5. Clean your barrel
6. Try quality pellets, Crosman CPH, CPL, JSB, H&N, RWS, etc, Try different weight pellets
7. lighten your trigger (be careful with this one)
8. Tune/detune your rifle (detuning might make it more pleasant to shoot and help you manage recoil thus shrinking your group)
9. Try the artillery hold and try not to shoot your gun resting on a solid rest/tripod (a hand under the forearm, softer padding? might help). Really be consistent on your position and trigger control. Shoot at 10 yards first to get good grouping before going to longer yardages. For me, if I can't group 3/8" at 10 yards, I tweaks things until I see good groupings.
10. check your crown
Great contribution!!
 
Great contribution!!
Lol...

You know the guy knows what hes talking about when you read #6 " try quality pellets" and crosman cp's are first..

Of course my saying is " i dont mind a pellet picky gun as long as it picks cphp"😉

I think you just shoot ot alot it will come together. Remember Rome was not built in a day..
 
Having the same problem now with my backup TX. It was grouping...then started shifting. Then group...then shift back.(same shooting session). It's driving me crazy.
I need to run down that check list to isolate the problem(s)
--
Edit
Temp was around 72 degrees

Just chrono the gun...hmmm cheap Chinese chrono...(sorry m/s only, 8.64 grain H&N) 227.1, 227.1, 223.7, 226.3, 225.5, 230.2, 225, 224.2, 227.2, 223.7, 224.7. Extreme spread = 6.5 m/s = 21.35 ft/s...hmm SD = 1.9...not really sure what all these mean...sure do not like to see extreme spread at 21.35 ft/s coupled with POI shifts (could be shooter error...or other things). very unusual to see such a hight extreme spread with a Tony Leach set up...unless it was high outside temp...(I need an infra red thermometer).

Should have checked all the screws first...will update next time. (conclusion...probably not done tracking down the culprits yet...most likely shooter error)
You may just be holding it too tight or you're tense. loosen up on you shoulder and play with the position of the artillery hold. This type of thing can be frustrating.
 
Lol...

You know the guy knows what hes talking about when you read #6 " try quality pellets" and crosman cp's are first..

Of course my saying is " i dont mind a pellet picky gun as long as it picks cphp"😉

I think you just shoot ot alot it will come together. Remember Rome was not built in a day..
Nowadays, most serious competition shooters turn their nose up at most Crosman pellets/products.

Sometimes quality surprise us by showing up at a lower price point.

So, here's my experience with Crosman pellets. In some rifle, CPH and CPL can give JSB, AirArms, H&N, RWS pellets a run for their money.

I remember when CPL was still available in a box of 1250 (no more...gone the way of the dinosaurs)
I remember when CPH in a box of 1250 was $18? (no more...it's around $34 now)

Shoot what's accurate in your rifle at a price point that makes sense to you wallet.

I think I'm showing my age by continuing to recommend a discontinued product ...CPL...I'll remove that reference in my next post.
 
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Someone was kind enough to develop a generic standardized Springer not grouping checklist. ....wait ....that was me. I'm sure there's some expert out there that could add to this list.

A standard Springer NOT Grouping Checklist


1. check all the screws including scope screws (snug them up, and locktite them if they keep loosening)
2. tissue test (possible breech seal issues)
3. chrono the gun (is it consistent? if not, look at piston seal, spring, excessive lube to no lube, )
4. Clean your barrel.
5. Try quality pellets, Crosman CPH, CPL, JSB, H&N, RWS, etc, Try different weight pellets
6. lighten your trigger (be careful with this one)
7. Tune/detune your rifle (detuning might make it more pleasant to shoot and help you manage recoil thus shrinking your group)
8. check your crown and leade (for guns with moderators, check for clipping)
9. Troubleshoot possible scope issue (Shoot open sight to check if the scope is busted, swap scopes, mount a laser then use your scope to double check POI shifts).
10. Try the artillery hold and try not to shoot your gun resting on a solid rest/tripod (a hand under the forearm, softer padding? might help). Really be consistent on rifle positioning, your position and trigger control. Shoot at 10 yards first to get good grouping before going to longer yardages. For me, if I can't group around 3/8" at 10 yards, I tweaks things until I see good groupings.
--
Edit
re-arranged the checklist 1-8 are rifle relate, 9 -scope, 10-you.
Wanted to add 11...shoot indoors to eliminate environmental conditions but item 10 already suggested to shoot at 10 yards...that should eliminate wind effect...temp...hmm (but 10 is such a perfect number)
I was privately PM by a top shooter (someone who continually kick my ar(s)e at Field Target)
that I should revise my 3/8" grouping at 10 yards. Because for him, 1/4" at 23 yards was "normal"?

Damn, I must be doing something wrong. I'm going to schedule myself for a physical/check up tomorrow...eye check up...neural check...hand tremors check...cognition check cos only crazy people shoot springers in FT... heart check...bladder check...(we'll skip the other lower part check for now) etc.


Oh yeah ...maybe I should quit my whining and shoot a PCP...LOL----remember hearing that somewhere too.
 
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Ya, a springer so many little things to check over . From screws loosing to barrel clean, or internals like nicked seal or just poorly lubed seal s, spring, guide. These " better" springrrs you kinda got to finesse it up . Im no expert on working in a new gun , but im a little smarter today on doing it.. sometimes a best effort just dont work out on one or two... Then some you can make a sows ear to a silk purse..
 
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Experimented with chronos for more years than I can remember. They can deviate a bunch if the setup is not identical each time. Many years back, I set up a portable chrono bench...a 3' long board with the chrono having a set spot to sit in, a riser to set the gun barrel so each shot is the same height over the screens and the same distance from the screens. Also my own lights overhead, as the strength or weakness of light can vary the reading. Since then my shots are far more consistant and repeatable. Have put my setup head to head with other chronos and found that a consistant setup gives far more precise readouts. Before you get to excited about your deviation, get a setup that allows your gun/ chrono to be able to repeat accurately.
 
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Experimented with chronos for more years than I can remember. They can deviate a bunch if the setup is not identical each time. Many years back, I set up a portable chrono bench...a 3' long board with the chrono having a set spot to sit in, a riser to set the gun barrel so each shot is the same height over the screens and the same distance from the screens. Also my own lights overhead, as the strength or weakness of light can vary the reading. Since then my shots are far more consistant and repeatable. Have put my setup head to head with other chronos and found that a consistant setup gives far more precise readouts. Before you get to excited about your deviation, get a setup that allows your gun/ chrono to be able to repeat accurately.
Correct. The energy loss is pretty quick and a foot or yard between muzzle and crony can be big fps gap .

Honestly not saying its the best but my cheap bolt on barrel china crony i can set the barrel/ muzzle in the same spot or with in a 1/4" and not using the bolt on part and get a more consistent at the muzzle reading..
 
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