Definitely go through the trigger and polish those sears. You'll thank yourself later. Its a darn easy trigger to disassemble too.Couldn’t stand it any longer, I had to get inside to see what it looks like, and as I thought it was packed with black grease. After complete disassembly and cleaning/ polishing , I will probably make new guides and top hat for this spring. It will be relubed with Krytox 223 or 205 and continue with my pellet testing. Then I will decide if I want to try a lighter Maccari spring. There’s a lot of possibilities with this rifle, I like the fact that the compression tube and piston have delrin bearings from the factory. Piston seal looks good no cuts in it. Probably go through the trigger too.
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Yes the factory guide is pretty loose. Another little thing I don’t like is the bare steel safety catch. I think I’ll slightly radius the sharp corner on it and then cold blue it till I get it as dark as possible..lol.Definitely go through the trigger and polish those sears. You'll thank yourself later. Its a darn easy trigger to disassemble too.
For reference to make your life easier, the he factory guide is roughly 0.530" in diameter. It should be closer to 0.560"-0.565"
Going back through my notes here a good starting point for the guide is actually 0.570"Yes the factory guide is pretty loose. Another little thing I don’t like is the bare steel safety catch. I think I’ll slightly radius the sharp corner on it and then cold blue it till I get it as dark as possible..lol.
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Looking through the underside you can see the stop pin hole bushing I made for a snug fit with the stop pin in the picatinny scope rail, this was a
mod I learned from nced and I have it on all my rifles.
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There is a slight rub mark on top, off center to left. Was yours causing a problem? Are you talking about buttons on the outside of the trigger block? Show a pic if you have it.Mabe check the inside of the trigger group where the latch rod connects to the trigger, on my pro sport it was touching the top of the hole when it was installed because the hold-down bolt would pull it down. So I did button the trigger group, stopping it from touching when reassembling. you can tell if it is touching but the paint is rubbed off at the top. I hope this makes sence to you. Steve!
Thanks I might look into next time it’s apart, I would use delrin for the bearings but brass is fine. I did check my latch rod today before assembly and best I could get it was .005 I did make my guides with a smaller bore than the factory guides.I do not have any pictures right now and I did not want to take the rifle apart for a picture, yes I put brass buttons on the trigger block to centre it.
I did it in my lathe and made it a slight push fit and that stopped the rubbing. I also put the piston in my lathe and checked the run out on the piston latch rod it was out a little so I straightened that as well.
It is the smoothest shooting rifle now. I put a pg4h kit in it and it shoots wonderfully. Steve!
Have you weighed any? The ones I weighed were pretty close although I didn’t check very many.The QYS do very well in my AA’s too. That said, they are not 8.48gr as you may notice that they have lower velocities then the JSBs. They are in actuality around 9gr! Tricky marketing by QYS, but quality pellets none the less.
-Marty
Yes, just a day or two ago. I used a jeweler’s scale. I was surprised that the weights were from 8.92-9.06. This is not uncommon with their other line too…Have you weighed any? The ones I weighed were pretty close although I didn’t check very many.
My prosport was doing about 890fps with them before I took it apart.I’m going to chrony tonight to check it post tune numbers.
Thanks for the info, and great target group. Looking forward to joining you guys by becoming a prosport owner. If it’s more accurate than my tricked out 97K I’ll be surprised for sure.
Time will tell.I would be surprised also if it shoots as good as my HW 97k But really like the looks of that gun