HW/Weihrauch Acquired a HW30 Delux last week ... Fresh ARH seal, Piston sleeve & fitted guide .. WHOA SMOOTH !!!

I know as a tuner I've been here before, tho been Years since doing an R7 / HW30 and this time around it was personal !! ... Lol

Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.

Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.

Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.

At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.

Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )

We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted. :D

For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it ;)(y)

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Awesome writeup, what a wonderful contribution of technique to the forum for springer tuning. I like how you combine graphite & moly in the oil. I assume a silicone chamber type oil vehicle? Good description of polishing all the critical sliding surfaces. The voice of great experience. Thank you for sharing.

I bought some powdered molybdenum disulfide and added some to my all purpose oiler for general use. Perhaps I'll add some graphite. Don't get it on your clothes!

Regards,
Feinwerk
 
Thanks for sharing!

So you are saying, tar to “glue” the piston liner and the real tar is the Lucas Red ‘N’ Tacky?
BLACK SPRING TAR :LOL: is the adhesive to hold Liner to piston & used NO WHERE ELSE !!!
Red-N-Tacky Only used on the Spring & Guide and NO WHERE ELSE

I assume a silicone chamber type oil vehicle?

No Silicone used anywhere !!! Metal on Metal use is Bad JuJu (n)
 
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Awesome writeup, what a wonderful contribution of technique to the forum for springer tuning. I like how you combine graphite & moly in the oil. I assume a silicone chamber type oil vehicle? Good description of polishing all the critical sliding surfaces. The voice of great experience. Thank you for sharing.

I bought some powdered molybdenum disulfide and added some to my all purpose oiler for general use. Perhaps I'll add some graphite. Don't get it on your clothes!

Regards,
Feinwerk
Moly and / or Graphite WILL NOT stay suspended in an oil, they require a grease / paste to hold them in solution.
 
Scott, Are you saying you're not doing tuning anymore for the public.
Not completely, just taking the old gun base maintenance / servicing off the table. More modern guns folks use in competition / FT etc has always been my go too and remains so.

Case by case with a simple PM inquire and conversation on whats wanted sort of deal.
 
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I know as a tuner I've been here before, tho been Years since doing an R7 / HW30 and this time around it was personal !! ... Lol

Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.

Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.

Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.

At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.

Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )

We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted. :D

For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it ;)(y)

View attachment 496067
Don't close up just yet. I managed to get my HW35E back, and it never was tuned, What spring do you recommend, and I will get one before mailing you the rifle.
 
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Hey Motörhead,
Sounds about what I do, except I use buttons on the piston, disassemble - polish the trigger sears, polish indent (if gun has one) and polish/wax bore. Spring guide usually ok; but if not … make one from delrin, use a touch of superlube in compression tube.

The buttons cost me about 25 fps, but the guns feels more solid/smoother.

Labor of love, but then you have a great shooter for years :).
Also try AA 7.33 …….. (y)
 
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I know as a tuner I've been here before, tho been Years since doing an R7 / HW30 and this time around it was personal !! ... Lol

Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.

Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.

Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.

At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.

Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )

We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted. :D

For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it ;)(y)

View attachment 496067
wonderful write up ,fascinating to read , when are you sending to me ? tracking number please .

OK seriously you have a wonderful gun enjoy as much as you can .
Stan in KY.
 
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Not completely, just taking the old gun base maintenance / servicing off the table. More modern guns folks use in competition / FT etc has always been my go too and remains so.

Case by case with a simple PM inquire and conversation on whats wanted sort of deal.
I have a newer Beeman R7 that I'd be interested in having it tuned in the manor you described. What
kind of velocity does it shoot post tune up ?
 
Hey Motörhead,
Sounds about what I do, except I use buttons on the piston, disassemble - polish the trigger sears, polish indent (if gun has one) and polish/wax bore. Spring guide usually ok; but if not … make one from delrin, use a touch of superlube in compression tube.

The buttons cost me about 25 fps, but the guns feels more solid/smoother.

Labor of love, but then you have a great shooter for years :).
Also try AA 7.33 …….. (y)
As with most seasoned pro's, all the details are not shared.
Case in point ... spring guide is also fitted/sized to latch rod and buttons become not required. barrel work, lapping, crown & leade clean up with bore waxing is Always done.

Tho YES .... knowing what your doing A to Z before doing it is key .... Long live the sport and those mechanically gifted having a place in the world :cool: