I know as a tuner I've been here before, tho been Years since doing an R7 / HW30 and this time around it was personal !! ... Lol
Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.
Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.
Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.
At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.
Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )
We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted.
For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it
Tearing it apart did a ball hone job on inner tube surfaces placing a nice cross hatch on compression bore & also deburring the cocking slot & holes that the seal must pass over when fitting said seal and final assembly. Cleaned it up and fitted a new ARH seal for nice light fit ( These low power guns need a loose fit to have any chance at OEM power output )
Polished tail of piston and checked latch rod run out in the lathe which did need a tad of straightening out. Next up using 3/4" ACETAL rod made up a spring guide that was a light slip fit to the OEM spring & then opened up washer a tad to fit this now obviously larger diameter spring guide. Made a thin Top lat for piston end of spring. The spring ends gets dress flatter on the belt sander with a small bevel at coils end so it does not dig in while rotating.
Inside the piston ( Spring bore ) gets a thick plastic water bottle liner cut to butt ends and flush out just shy of end once seated having butt gap 180* from cocking slot. The plastic liner on outside gets scratched up heavily with 80 grit and then we'll call glued in with heavy tar which will hold it in place. Tar is ONLY between liner and inner wall of piston !!!! As a lighter spring grease will be used ultimately.
Out on the Yoke end of main tube a little bit of stoning of surface where the thin thrust washers reside ( Factory surface on this one was ROUGH )
Using a flat stone & WD-40 just kissing the high spots around washer placement will smooth up the cocking further.
The cocking linkages lower surface that contacts tube was also stoned flat & polished up with 600 wet.dry. The tube forward of cocking slot deburred and also smoothed up.
The slot itself cleaned up and the sides of the slot stoned and 600 smoothed up full length.
At this juncture we get out the lubes and get the primary action reassembled. Barrel pivot and washers, lower cocking linkage get heavy moly grease, Piston bore and behind seal my proprietary moly/graphite/oil blend, as well within tube at piston skirt to bore. Lucas Red-N-Sticky on spring & guide. Gets assembled setting it aside for the moment.
Trigger next .... No need to disassemble as these Rekord units really just need correct adjusting of the Intermediate link screw ( Torx head No touch it screw ) spring preload screw behind trigger blade & bending of the tab stop forward of blade. All done we have a short 1st stage, No creep & VERY crisp break with light tension on trigger blade .. Perfection !
Reinstall the trigger block after placing some moly grease on sear, and other catch /release linkages with white grease on safety plunger & spring ( grease on spring stops the Twang of releasing safety and some noise upon firing )
We're done and get action back into stock with loc-tite on screws.
Cock & release moving piston up & down bore @ 10 times or so to distribute lube from piston to the comp chamber walls. Next cocking is live fire with a jsb 8.4 ... THUMP hardly having action move and making ZERO mechanical noise from spring, piston, linkages etc ... just a sublime light bump & thump being just what we wanted.
For those reading along ... yes some very detailed info shared as my days doing spring gun tuning for hire is or has wound down after 10+ years of commercial service work.
If you understand what said ? ..... Apply it to your next home grown springer tune ... you'll like it
Bet it's shot cycle is quite SMOOTH...
