Adjustable Scope Base Comparison (Coldshot vs Ravin)

In my long range shooting experience, I believe these are going to be the best two options for airgunners and I wanted to show everyone the difference between these two bases.

These bases can solve most, if not all, of issues with shooting low velocity projectiles (like airgunning) from close, to extremely long ranges. You'll also be able to use a much broader range of scopes to accomplish your needs. You'll also be able to keep your scopes closer to an optical center to get the best performance possible out of them.

Let's cut right to the chase.

The Coldshot base is from Heritage Arms and made for Extreme Long Range Shooting and built tough enough to be used on high power centerfire rifles.
Screenshot_20230827_195904_Chrome.jpg


The Ravin Jack Plate. Although very similar it's actually made to be used on high powered crossbows and is available from a few different sources, including Pyramid Air.
Screenshot_20230827_173244_Chrome.jpg


Both are built very similarly but the main difference is in the adjustment wheels.

The Coldshot has up to 300 MOA of adjustability and uses a very fine threaded adjustment wheel that has "clicks" simular to a scope turret. The fine threads of the Coldshot can make the adjustment range seem very "long winded" when shooting between various distances. For example, it takes about 7 revolutions to adjust to 200 MOA.
The Coldshot is made of aluminum with precision steel components but can develop a very small amount of back-lash after extended usage. Some bases, like the Ravin, have springs that will always push or pull ,up or down, on the scope rail to help get rid of back-lash.
The Coldshot base is relying on the precision of the steel components to hold a tight tolerance and keep the back-lash to a minimum.
The Coldshot utilizes a indicator pin that protrudes over the adjustment wheel to reference how much adjustment you make. The pin is attached to the scope rail, so the more you adjust, the further the indicator pin gets from the wheel. This means the you'll have to make an effort to look straight down on the pin to make sure it lines up correctly with the numbers on the adjustment wheel.
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The Ravin Jack Plate is capable of 250 MOA of adjustability and built out of aluminum, steel, and a delron like material inside the adjustment wheel.
The Ravin uses a very course threaded, smooth, steel component to thread into a delron like "nut" inside the adjustment wheel. This makes for a smooth and much faster adjustment. For example, less than 2 revolutions to reach 200 MOA. The steel threads appear to be machined or polished very smooth as to not wear on the delron like center of the adjustment wheel and even if some wear does occur, there is a spring built in that is always pulling down on the scope rail to get rid any back-lash that could otherwise develop.
The Ravin uses indicator marks on the rear of the base and scope rail, both above and below the adjustment wheel.
20230827_174919.jpg

The downside to the Ravin is that it was designed for crossbows and doesn't have indicator marks for MOA so you'll have to use a blank tape and make your own yardage marks or use scope turret stickers.
It's also worth noting that the Ravin has a three position selector switch on the side so that the adjustment wheel will "click" like a scope turret, have no clicks and be quiet and smooth, or lock the wheel in place.

Conclusion.
If I were to run only the bases by themselves..... I would have to lean towards the Coldshot. It's very solid, repeatable, and already has the MOA's marked on the adjustment wheel.
It's only downsides IMHO are that it takes a lot of revolutions to make the adjustments and I don't like the placement of the indicator pin.

If I run the bases with the Absolute MOA Digital Readout Kit....... I lean towards the Ravin Jack Plate. With the Absolute MOA, I don't rely on the adjustment wheels for measuring my MOA. I'm looking at the digital readout. So it's much faster and easier for me to make my adjustments between all ranges.
I also enjoy running the Ravin with the switch set on the smooth/quiet setting vs hearing all the clicks. Zip, zip, zip as you spin the adjustment wheel. Lol.

The Absolute MOA also makes the Coldshot easier and faster to use, just not nearly as fast as the Ravin and you'll have to hear the clicks.
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In my long range shooting experience, I believe these are going to be the best two options for airgunners and I wanted to show everyone the difference between these two bases.

These bases can solve most, if not all, of issues with shooting low velocity projectiles (like airgunning) from close, to extremely long ranges. You'll also be able to use a much broader range of scopes to accomplish your needs. You'll also be able to keep your scopes closer to an optical center to get the best performance possible out of them.

Let's cut right to the chase.

The Coldshot base is from Heritage Arms and made for Extreme Long Range Shooting and built tough enough to be used on high power centerfire rifles.
View attachment 384105

The Ravin Jack Plate. Although very similar it's actually made to be used on high powered crossbows and is available from a few different sources, including Pyramid Air.
View attachment 384106

Both are built very similarly but the main difference is in the adjustment wheels.

The Coldshot has up to 300 MOA of adjustability and uses a very fine threaded adjustment wheel that has "clicks" simular to a scope turret. The fine threads of the Coldshot can make the adjustment range seem very "long winded" when shooting between various distances. For example, it takes about 7 revolutions to adjust to 200 MOA.
The Coldshot is made of aluminum with precision steel components but can develop a very small amount of back-lash after extended usage. Some bases, like the Ravin, have springs that will always push or pull ,up or down, on the scope rail to help get rid of back-lash.
The Coldshot base is relying on the precision of the steel components to hold a tight tolerance and keep the back-lash to a minimum.
The Coldshot utilizes a indicator pin that protrudes over the adjustment wheel to reference how much adjustment you make. The pin is attached to the scope rail, so the more you adjust, the further the indicator pin gets from the wheel. This means the you'll have to make an effort to look straight down on the pin to make sure it lines up correctly with the numbers on the adjustment wheel. View attachment 384110
View attachment 384109

The Ravin Jack Plate is capable of 250 MOA of adjustability and built out of aluminum, steel, and a delron like material inside the adjustment wheel.
The Ravin uses a very course threaded, smooth, steel component to thread into a delron like "nut" inside the adjustment wheel. This makes for a smooth and much faster adjustment. For example, less than 2 revolutions to reach 200 MOA. The steel threads appear to be machined or polished very smooth as to not wear on the delron like center of the adjustment wheel and even if some wear does occur, there is a spring built in that is always pulling down on the scope rail to get rid any back-lash that could otherwise develop.
The Ravin uses indicator marks on the rear of the base and scope rail, both above and below the adjustment wheel. View attachment 384113
The downside to the Ravin is that it was designed for crossbows and doesn't have indicator marks for MOA so you'll have to use a blank tape and make your own yardage marks or use scope turret stickers.
It's also worth noting that the Ravin has a three position selector switch on the side so that the adjustment wheel will "click" like a scope turret, have no clicks and be quiet and smooth, or lock the wheel in place.

Conclusion.
If I were to run only the bases by themselves..... I would have to lean towards the Coldshot. It's very solid, repeatable, and already has the MOA's marked on the adjustment wheel.
It's only downsides IMHO are that it takes a lot of revolutions to make the adjustments and I don't like the placement of the indicator pin.

If I run the bases with the Absolute MOA Digital Readout Kit....... I lean towards the Ravin Jack Plate. With the Absolute MOA, I don't rely on the adjustment wheels for measuring my MOA. I'm looking at the digital readout. So it's much faster and easier for me to make my adjustments between all ranges.
I also enjoy running the Ravin with the switch set on the smooth/quiet setting vs hearing all the clicks. Zip, zip, zip as you spin the adjustment wheel. Lol.

The Absolute MOA also makes the Coldshot easier and faster to use, just not nearly as fast as the Ravin and you'll have to hear the clicks. View attachment 384121
View attachment 384122
View attachment 384123
Good stuff. Thanks for the review and thoughts.
 
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I have a few hundred pound of cast slugs though my cold shot Mill adjustable base. I have a big heavy Sightmark Wraith HD mounted on top. Recoil.is sever on the big .510 Texan. The cold shot works perfectly and is consistent under recoil..... I doubt the Ravin base would deal with any real recoil.. Big bores are a different animal when it comes to mounting optics and accessories because of recoil. 650 grain slugs are no joke!!!
 
I have a few hundred pound of cast slugs though my cold shot Mill adjustable base. I have a big heavy Sightmark Wraith HD mounted on top. Recoil.is sever on the big .510 Texan. The cold shot works perfectly and is consistent under recoil..... I doubt the Ravin base would deal with any real recoil.. Big bores are a different animal when it comes to mounting optics and accessories because of recoil. 650 grain slugs are no joke!!!
Whoa! That's some serious horse power and I agree 100%. That's the kind of recoil the Coldshot was made for.

The Ravin is still built very well and I'm sure will work perfectly for the vast majority of airgunners or rimfire shooters. And at half the price of the Coldshot, it's a great option for most.
I have a couple years with several thousand rounds of use on my Ravin and it still works like new.
When you add the Absolute MOA Digital Readout, it's simply the best long range shooting system available for airguns/rimfires.
I would hands down take an adjustable base with even a mid-tier scope and the Digital Readout Kit over ANY scope currently on the market at any price.
 
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Here is something that kinda gets me. I'm relatively new to airgunning and even newer to ELR with about a year(?) or so beyond 200. So I tried for a short while the Eagle adjustable rail and it did not feel right, and went back to the eagle adjustable scope rings. Then recently I bought the ravin jack. That's when I realized the back of the scope is like way the heck up there even with the lowest rings. I have to really jack up the cheek rest out there (I use spacers) to get any type of decent weld but just before that I'm out of adjustment. I may have to go back to the eagle adjustable rings to get my cheek weld back.
20231203_220020.jpg

Then again I don't have a k&l or saber tactical adjustable cheek rest. How high do those things go? Will they go higher than this?


Allen
 
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I'm not sure about how high those adjustable cheek rests will go. I've never used them. I've never felt the need to have a solid cheek weld with airguns. I actually prefer not to as it becomes another influence/variable on the rifle.

I put a low profile picatinny rail on my MK2 Impact that puts the Ravin much lower than the factory one. Mostly to shed some weight and I like the looks a little better. (See pics above) On my M3 I'm using the factory rail and a Coldshot base so it's up pretty high. I can connect with targets out to 500-600+ yards constantly with both.

I've also let several strangers shoot them both at the range, some with very little shooting experience, and all of them have been able to connect at ELR with relative ease and no one has mentioned anything about the scope sitting too high. With some practice and getting use to the feel, I think you'll find that a solid cheek weld isn't necessary to shoot most airguns accurately.

I totally understand that we all have our peeves and our own styles of shooting. With all of the accessories for Impacts, surly there is something out there that will work. Your spacers are a great idea. Maybe someone can 3D print a new cheek piece or even taller spacers?
 
Thanks, I'm exploring my options. I think I will have to experiment with my cheek weld. Thinking back I try to have a certain fit behind the scope, but at the same time trying not to press hard against the cheek rest. That and keeping a light predictible trigger so far works for me. And yes I still need a lot of practice. I missed my opportunity to shoot today which makes it about 6 weeks or so without any range time. I'm Jonesing to go but, shooting unprepared is no fun when it's 1.5 hr drive each way.

Allen
 
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so I actually prefer as close to the barrel as possible for sights.. but I also thought it was only a issue as far as height when going to close range.. guess I didn't think it mattered for long distance.. and with the digital dial indicator, as long as you know the numbers you should be dead on at any distance as long as you make the needed adjustments..
Mark
 
If anybody is interested in the Cold Shot, I have a WTS 150 MOA right side, 6" top rail for sale.


Rod in San Francisco
 
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so I actually prefer as close to the barrel as possible for sights.. but I also thought it was only a issue as far as height when going to close range.. guess I didn't think it mattered for long distance.. and with the digital dial indicator, as long as you know the numbers you should be dead on at any distance as long as you make the needed adjustments..
Mark
Another thing to consider is, unless it is a short barrel the front of the scope also has to start seeing around the barrel the further you go out. This is especially true when you have a slug projectile that has a more loopy trajectory.


Allen
 
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If anybody is interested in the Cold Shot, I have a WTS 150 MOA right side, 6" top rail for sale.


Rod in San Francisco
Of course I see that after I bought my Raven jack. 😆

Allen
 
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and with the digital dial indicator, as long as you know the numbers you should be dead on at any distance as long as you make the needed adjustments..
Exactly!
Another thing to consider is, unless it is a short barrel the front of the scope also has to start seeing around the barrel the further you go out. This is especially true when you have a slug projectile that has a more loopy trajectory.
I can run both of the bases on my Impacts maxed out with 700mm barrels and still see perfectly for what it's worth. Milage may vary on set-ups with very low scopes and or very long barrels.
 
so I haven't been able to see for years though a scope, but if I can see the target I can hit it.. just got bifocals so now I can not only read standard print but small print too.. it got to be hard with over the counter reading glasses and giant print..
do any of you have bifocals, I think I might have a old scope in a box of gun parts that I haven't seen in years.. but do anyone use bifocals and if so do you look through the bottom part or the top part of the glasses when you use a scope?? a few years ago my daughter brought her scoped rifle and I tried looking through it but there was 4 cross hairs.. so I tried my reading glasses and it was a normal single reticle..
since I am used to open sights I was thinking about setting up a air rifle for long range.. nothing less than 50 yards but preferably 100-500 yards and using one of these scope jacks along with a open sight I saw that some people are putting on their huben gk1 pistol.. I'll try to attach the link to the sight below..



Mark