Advice on scope for Lelya 2.0- TOUGH:)

@JungleShooter I have not tried this type of set up yet. I came to this decision after considering previous experiences with my current setups, reading numerous posts, and watching some reviews. Yes, I’ve noticed several webpages with product descriptions that contradict the info beneath the title and/or what’s listed in the specs. Some of the contradictory info is cleared up in the Q&A section.


I considered a Paragon, and a couple UTGs. Looses lien the Paragon 3-15x is out of stock on Optics Planet . I really don’t think I want a UTG although I have viewed a few. I was looking at a compact Hawke as well. I’m thinking of calling Airgun Optics Plus tomorrow with a few questions about a couple of their Discovery scopes. As for FFP vs SFP, I’m leaning toward SFP because that’s what I’m accustomed to. I don’t own any FFP, but my reading suggests that they may make for quicker shot acquisition. For scopes like the Vector Veyron (it’s either the Veyron or Taurus) I fear the reticle will be too thin in lower magnifications. Another issue is that I’ve seen a few budget scopes that don’t have illuminated reticles. I already have encountered issues with maintaining a good view of my reticle against a dark objects in the woods without illumination. Sifting through the info that’s out there has been time consuming, but I’m learning. 
 
I shop SWFA during their Black Friday sales, I have a 4-16 ffp SWFA SS, and it has been a really nice scope for sub $500.00 , no illumination, can be dialed reliably, kinda bulky but well built. 
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I went with a SFP scope for my Lelya. My reasoning was it’s for short to medium (15-75yds) ranges. So a 3-12 or 15 variable works for me. If I set it to 3x, I can actually see the reticle. With a FFP scope you’re going to see a jumble of hash marks at low powers, so it’s basically useless until you increase magnification to 7x and up.


If I need the hash marks for hold-offs, it means I have the time to crank to 10x and make a longer shot. For any shot from 14-50yds my setup is plus or minus .45”. Or 2 pellet diameters So just hold “On” and shoot.


A shorter and lighter scope makes sense for the Lelya. A long, two plus pound scope defeats the purpose. Something less than 11” looks best to my eye. And weight around a pound seems best..to me.


I went with an Optisan 3-12x32 https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/optisan-cp-3-12x32p-with-the-mil-mh10x-reticle/

Here’s what it looks like on my Lelya

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How did you fit a rail on the bottom to hold the bipod? Thanks!
 
How did you fit a rail on the bottom to hold the bipod? Thanks!
I essentially got rid of the Lelya2.0 wood stock and created a custom Lelya stock from an R5 standard synthetic stock.

The fore end of the R5 stock was shortened (carefully) to fit the Lelya tube. I used hand tools to do it..file..sanding block. Would have been much easier/quicker with a belt sander.

The previous owner had drilled holes in the R5 stock for a longer pic rail and I needed to use a shorter one. The forward most hole was used, but a new 2nd hole had to be drilled.

It easier to see the pic rail on the finished custom stock painted in FDE.

The black stock shows the Lelya with a stock moderator and the FDE has the BAT moderator.

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img-5-R5MC-FDE-onblue-Stock-woodsyn-2.JPG
 
Good Doctor,

I think it would be important to analyze the kind of shooting you're planning on doing -- and then buy a scope that will serve those particular needs.

Many insist on a minimum parallax of 10y, but some are fine with 20y because they only take farther shots....

The fascination of a small light gun is tremendous, but can easily be nullified with a 14-inch long scope, weighing almost a couple of pounds....

Are you going to adjust your point of aim (POA) with the turrets (dialing for every shot)? Or with the reticle (holdoffs)?

The difference between FFP and SFP is huge (if you use holdoffs), and you need to find what suits your style of shooting.

Some hate illumination, some won't buy a scope without it.

Most shooter would agree that it makes sense to have turrets and reticle talking the same language (MOA/MOA or MIL/MIL), but a lot of scope manufacturers seem to disagree.... Go figure.



Without knowing any more about your shooting than you shared, I'd say that you might enjoy:

Short scopes
(you got a short gun, for backpacking)

Light scopes (you got a light gun)

10 yard minimum parallax (you got an airgun, not a powder burner, so your quarry will be much closer -- why limit yourself to 20 yards min...)



Variable magnification (instead of a fixed magnification). I know that this adds weight and bulk, but the flexibility of shooting a vast variety of ranges that a variable magnification gives would be more important to me -- but that's me, you have your own priorities.

FFP (for rushed shooting as in hunting situations, using the reticle to hold off the POA is easier than dialing the turrets, and FFP allows you to memorize only one set off holdoffs for different ranges, no matter what magnification you use)

Turrets –– exposed turrets, or capped turrets, or locking turrets: If you plan on dialing your turrets to adjust your POA you probably won't want capped turrets. However, turret settings will get changed when you carry the gun in a backpack, so for that locking turrets would be an important feature. Capped turrets offer you a similar protection against inadvertedly changed turret settings, but if you want to dial your turrets... -- taking off your turret caps every time you shoot gets really old really fast.



Side parallax (many prefer the side turret to adjust for parallax to the AO (adjustable objective), the latter requiring to reach further forward)



Illuminated reticle (because the woods can be dark, and some animals come out just when the lights go out; also the FFP reticle gets really thin at small magnifications, and by turning the illumination on you can still see the reticle rather well)

Sturdy scopes, or scopes with a sturdy warranty (for backpacking). Lifetime warranty from a reputable seller or brand can make up for quality that is below the my-life-depends-on-it quality level.



The bottom magnification is important for quick target acquisition in rushed shooting (= hunting while stalking). A field of view (FoV) of 30ft at 100y distance I personally consider fairly good. 20ft is rather narrow and has me searching for my quarry longer than it might stay around for me to get a shot off. A FoV of 30ft at 100y usually translates to a 3x (or 4x) bottom end magnification (note that every scope is different, so do check the scope specs, there are some good and some bad surprises).



The top end magnification is important for several things: (a) To see the target or quarry large enough to hit it. For that you don't need that much, say at most 9x or 12x for 50y. 16x or 20x for 100y. But more if your eyes have seen a lot in life already (read, when they are not that young anymore). | (b) To see the hits in the paper target. For that you'd need more magnification than mentioned in (a).... And expensive (= clearer) glass helps a lot. | (c) For ranging the distance to your target, say for field target. That's another story, ask the FT guys.



Price.... I'm glad you can afford a four-digit priced scope. Cool. The saying you quote ("Spend as much on the glass as on the gun") -- sure, scope purist believe it and live by it. And everyone decides on their personal priorities. However, I believe the saying originated in a time when quality in a scope cost much, much more than today. Even scopes made in China and sold at a price point are surprisingly clear, and often have features that more expensive scopes by more traditional scope makers do not offer.





There is a recent post that includes three Scope Spec Lists that cover and compare those features, and some others:

  • Short Scopes (any magni*) -and- 3-12x, 3-9x *[any magnification if at least 3-9x]
  • 4-14x Magnification, also 3-18x, 4-20x, and similar
  • 6-20x Magnification, also 6-24x, 5-25x, 4-20x, and similar

LINK:
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/🔴150-scopes-comparison-in-3-scope-specs-tables/



Happy scope shopping! 😊

Matthias
@JungleShooter Back here again a couple years later. The Vector Veyron FFP 3-12x44mm scope has been great on this gun, so much that I ended up with 2-3 of them. Lack of illuminated reticle is making it tougher for me to use with shorter daylight cycles. I’m trying not to buy another scope, but I can’t find much info on placing a heavy Athlon Helos on this light rifle. I may have to either try it or finally break down and grab that Discovery VT-3 if they make a FFP. I’ve grown fond of First Focal Plane (FFP) scopes for hunting in the woods and in general. I still have some searching to do on the Lelya 2.0/Helos pairing, but thought I’d update this thread. I’m not interested in a prismatic or fixed mag scope.
 
@JungleShooter Back here again a couple years later. The Vector Veyron FFP 3-12x44mm scope has been great on this gun, so much that I ended up with 2-3 of them. Lack of illuminated reticle is making it tougher for me to use with shorter daylight cycles. I’m trying not to buy another scope, but I can’t find much info on placing a heavy Athlon Helos on this light rifle. I may have to either try it or finally break down and grab that Discovery VT-3 if they make a FFP. I’ve grown fond of First Focal Plane (FFP) scopes for hunting in the woods and in general. I still have some searching to do on the Lelya 2.0/Helos pairing, but thought I’d update this thread. I’m not interested in a prismatic or fixed mag scope.


Dave,

yupp, I can't believe how much you and I have written in those "couple of years"....! 😄


🔶 I have an update as well.
In the past I have been always thinking "shorter scopes are better." Especially for short guns.
I even made a Scope Specs Table for short scopes....


However... —
I have been reading a scope review for a high-end scope — with 8-fold magnification (8x erector design) — that is short.
The reviewer is a head honcho on the Sniper's Hide forum, a real pro.
So, I'm just taking him by his word what he says about
▪ short scopes, and
scopes with a large magnification range


➠ ➊ They have less depth of field and are therefore more needy to have the parallax adjusted just so. ("finnicky parallax").

➠ ➋ They have a smaller eye box and therefore require a more precise placement of the eye behind the ocular lens — making it harder to quickly mount the gun and take a rapid shot.


Both of these things matter a great deal to me. More than having a short scope.
Therefore, unless I need to mount a scope on a pistol like a PP700 where I don't want the scope to protrude over the gun, I will opt for "normal length" scopes (normal for their top end magnification and magnification range).


Scopes simply are fascinating to me....
Cheers, 😊

Matthias



● The review (and not just the first post, he posts additional comments later):