AEA HP Carbine Valve Pins

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heavy-impact said:
What parts might you need? Most parts that fail in general are easy to make or are not manufacturer specific.
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Stretch, as himpact implied, not much to go wrong on a unregulated bolt gun. Valve pin or o- rings. The extended bolt handle is 2 long rod thread connectors of 1" length with a 6mx1 1 1/2" allen head. The 2 thread connectors are loc- tighted on the bolt. Leaves 1/2" to thread on the bolt stud. Sanded off the zink coating and cold blued. About $3.75. With proper technique, not too hard to cycle, even for a 140lb 77year old. The trigger is easiest I've done. She's at 2lbs and clean. As I said: a long gun that weighs 6.5lbs, shoots sub moa and makes 50fpe for $600 is a no brainer. I extended the carbine bolt handle with 1 thread connector (also steel) and it cycles as it should. I shoot paper to tune and dope trajectory, I hunt with my guns and if I make the shot a fast follow-up is not needed. The Varmint will make the shot. To each their own. As a foot note I have a. 25cal Ghost on order. Looking forward to seeing how it stacks up to the Varmint's accuracy.
 
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darylm said:
Same question as customcutter…….looks like a stronger material for sure. But I also think that the shaft should go all the way to the end of the head considering that that was always where it broke off.
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You really dont want the shaft all the way to the end, it will protrude through the seal.
 
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I have a .5L CF tank for my varmint that I put on today and am just waiting for the M18*1.5 5/8"-18UNF converter and the 2200 psi regulator. I have plenty of power but want to reduce the cocking force after I get the shots regulated.

Here is a foot of peek and two pieces of Titanium rod that I am working on for my AEA guns. This will help reduce the strike force needed so I can use a softer hammer spring.

20221111_203425.jpg
 
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I've had my .25 TD carbine for a year now. Close to 4K rounds through it without a valve break. I notice mine though tends to stick when filled for the first shot and sticks some when it sets. I too have a PEEK rod to make a valve. What is the diameter of the shaft? My plan was to press fit the shaft in with some high grade super glue. PEEK will stop the sticking. Do you have to burnish the PEEK valve prior to installing?

Rounding the base of the shaft would help. I think what is splitting the valves is the shaft is gradually moving forward inside the plastic creating pressures that eventually split the plastic. I'm going to try adhesive on the shaft to minimize this movement. I had planned on rounding the end just to make the press fit easier.
 
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Sicumj said:
I've had my .25 TD carbine for a year now. Close to 4K rounds through it without a valve break. I notice mine though tends to stick when filled for the first shot and sticks some when it sets. I too have a PEEK rod to make a valve. What is the diameter of the shaft? My plan was to press fit the shaft in with some high grade super glue. PEEK will stop the sticking. Do you have to burnish the PEEK valve prior to installing?

Rounding the base of the shaft would help. I think what is splitting the valves is the shaft is gradually moving forward inside the plastic creating pressures that eventually split the plastic. I'm going to try adhesive on the shaft to minimize this movement. I had planned on rounding the end just to make the press fit easier.
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Jim, I bought my .25 TD carbine used from an iguana removal guy. No telling how many shots it had fired. I might have put 500 rds through it when the original valve broke at the bottom of the shaft. I made a new one out of peek. Don't recall the stem diameter, but it is slightly larger and knurled under the delrin. I don't see how it could move on the shaft. I formed the PEEK section and had it in a collet on the lathe. Then I drilled the hole for the shaft using a chuck in the tailstock. It was a couple of thousandths under the shaft size. Then I chucked up the stem and press fitted it into the PEEK section while it was spinning in the collet. It heated up and seated itself.

Somehow it wasn't properly aligned with the bore of the PEEK. I placed the stem in a collet and re-turned the sealing face of the PEEK and burnished it with some 1200 grit. No problems since but I've probably only shot less than 200 rds with it. I did notice before if the gun had sat for a couple of days sometimes the first shot sounded a little weak. No problem with the PEEK valve.
 
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darylm said:
That’s the one!……..thanks heavy-impact. It literally said “out of stock, limited run” just yesterday! Ha
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customcutter said:
What is the green material? Are the shafts shaped like the original shafts with a fatter head under the green part?
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No. Other than outside dimensions with the exception of the tapered sealing face being extended for less turbulence it is a redesign. Ive adressed some issues with other designs. Delrin and precision ground tool steel and it stays right around the factory valve weight to retain the tune and air efficiency.

I hated my aea from the day i got it(fx snobbery) op rods, charging handles and valves breaking. Burping pellets down into the trigger group. Several friends have them too and had similar issues. So i decided to brute force solve it within reason for the valves which will eventually become cheap enough that they're like oring re sealings. I will also stand behind my re design. If you break it (within reason, not 10 years and 20k rds haha) we will get you running again for a nominal fee. Pricing falls between the factory part and the exotic valve out there.
 
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