AEA HP SS PLUS

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Perle said:
I broke out both of em

I really like my AEAs

So much so I’ve named them

Meet Jack and Sledge, the hammer brothers !

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Hi. What are the benefits of the other aluminum air tank? I have dreamed with having tank that I can swap on the fly and carry two extra ones to the mountains, instead of having to deal with the compressor. I have seen various small valves for tanks like yours (some with the trigger hammer) that I assume could seal the tank from loosing the air while stored. But I don't know the technology, I am just doing my homework before entering the PCP world. I am surprised though that other people have not done it already. Here are some small valve models: https://es.aliexpress.com/store/1102605379?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.46ceFlG0FlG0RQ and a picture with an exmple:

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Sicumj said:
The bolts on these rifles are a bit small IMO. My Terminator cocks easier than my HP Carbine. I have arthritis in my right hand. Fishing thumb is what my doctor called it so I turned a larger handle for me. I find it much easier if you can get two fingers on the bolt.

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Great ! I don't even own one yet but by watching videos of people struggling with it I was planing on doing something about it. I'll draw the length by comparing the ones in your picture :)
 
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Chard said:
Has anyone changed out the valve pin and is it hard to do? I was checking mine the other day before posting for sale. It has less than 50 rds through. The air started coming from the breech. I need to fix that before I can sell it. I have the valve pin in hand.. I'm not super handy btw. Thanks..
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I'll buy it as is so you don't have to buy a new poppet. PM me
 
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Adolf said:
Hi. What are the benefits of the other aluminum air tank? I have dreamed with having tank that I can swap on the fly and carry two extra ones to the mountains, instead of having to deal with the compressor. I have seen various small valves for tanks like yours (some with the trigger hammer) that I assume could seal the tank from loosing the air while stored. But I don't know the technology, I am just doing my homework before entering the PCP world. I am surprised though that other people have not done it already. Here are some small valve models: https://es.aliexpress.com/store/1102605379?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.46ceFlG0FlG0RQ and a picture with an exmple:

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Some of those valves are not HPA on both ends and others don't allow for quick-connect.

FX is the only ones with a removable bottle valve inlet that I know of.

Here is the FX valve....

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Rosco said:
Just picked one up from AEA Northeast - Came with CNC'd adj buttstock .. Fit and finish is very nice.. Now we will see how it runs semi-auto and long term durability.. I have to say the thing is built like a tank...



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Could you take a picture for me with shroud off? I have this gun, and the guy that opened it before me gutted it and made it single shot bolt. I've been buying parts and trying to get it back to semi for a long time. I think maybe I'm missing baffles at the end of the barrel now....
 
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dnye1986 said:
Could you take a picture for me with shroud off? I have this gun, and the guy that opened it before me gutted it and made it single shot bolt. I've been buying parts and trying to get it back to semi for a long time. I think maybe I'm missing baffles at the end of the barrel now....
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This thread is 3-4 years old.

I also turned mine into a single bolt action, since the semiauto would work whenever it felt like.

Good luck trying to get it to work in semiauto.

I soled mine and I used the money to buy something that actualluy works.
 
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dnye1986 said:
Could you take a picture for me with shroud off? I have this gun, and the guy that opened it before me gutted it and made it single shot bolt. I've been buying parts and trying to get it back to semi for a long time. I think maybe I'm missing baffles at the end of the barrel now....
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Without seeing what you have I'm guessing you need three pieces. A threaded rod that connects the piston with the bolt, The piston and the spring. Here is a pic or two or mine and a pic of exploded view.

I can help you tune it if needed. Start out buy purchasing some aftermarket mags. I use A E Swede. Typically people get frustrated when they try to fix it and it only gets worse. Many times though it is an accumulation of small issues . New mags is a good start. I have 4 Semi-Auto AEA's and all are shoot-able when I want to shoot one. I have other PCP's but I truly like the AR feel and power of these small auto's. I find myself shooting one of them 95 percent of my time. Keeps us up to date on how it goes and feel free to ask questions.

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nobody1 said:
This thread is 3-4 years old.

I also turned mine into a single bolt action, since the semiauto would work whenever it felt like.

Good luck trying to get it to work in semiauto.

I soled mine and I used the money to buy something that actualluy works.
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I give you a gold star for your good reply lol. I may follow your advice and scrap the damn thing. So it's not just me the semi auto doesn't always function....?
 
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Sicumj said:
Without seeing what you have I'm guessing you need three pieces. A threaded rod that connects the piston with the bolt, The piston and the spring. Here is a pic or two or mine and a pic of exploded view.

I can help you tune it if needed. Start out buy purchasing some aftermarket mags. I use A E Swede. Typically people get frustrated when they try to fix it and it only gets worse. Many times though it is an accumulation of small issues . New mags is a good start. I have 4 Semi-Auto AEA's and all are shoot-able when I want to shoot one. I have other PCP's but I truly like the AR feel and power of these small auto's. I find myself shooting one of them 95 percent of my time. Keeps us up to date on how it goes and feel free to ask questions.

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I believe when my gun is cocked there is a small space between piston and the front piston with holes in it. Is that right?
Thank you so much for taking time out to help me here.

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Yes I have mine adjusted out for a stronger cycle for cold weather. You can speed up or slow down the cycle with adjusting the drum. The drum is the blow back devise that works your semi auto function. Closer to the end of the barrel the stronger the cycle. If you are have problems with it cycling they are pretty easy to tune. Yours looks dry to me. They run better wet. Your hammer and guide rod is right below the bolt. Make sure you lube that too.

I like your 30. I am waiting on a good deal on one. Mine is a 25. My SS and SS Plus

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Sicumj said:
Yes I have mine adjusted out for a stronger cycle for cold weather. You can speed up or slow down the cycle with adjusting the drum. The drum is the blow back devise that works your semi auto function. Closer to the end of the barrel the stronger the cycle. If you are have problems with it cycling they are pretty easy to tune. Yours looks dry to me. They run better wet. Your hammer and guide rod is right below the bolt. Make sure you lube that too.

I like your 30. I am waiting on a good deal on one. Mine is a 25. My SS and SS Plus

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Thanks a lot. I got this thing for under 59 bucks. So to properly adjust the rod, what all do I need to dismantle, I've had it apart MULTIPLE times, but I would like to make sure I'm not making any extra steps for myself.
 
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Quickest way remove the shroud. Take a pair of needle noise vise grips and clamp the rod that ties the bolt to the piston with medium pressure. Turn the rod counter clockwise to the bolt thread. Once out of the bolt you can thread the piston in and out. Allow for the distance the rod will thread back into the bolt. MAKE SURE you tighten rod well after getting it to work. The piston is where you want to apply a dab of lock tite.
 
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