After 9 years my Shoebox gets another upgrade!!!

[AirRanger]

When I originally purchased this shoebox about 9 years ago I opted to order it without the built in fan as I was being cheap and wanted to save a few bucks and so I have ran my unit with the cover off using an external fan blowing directly into the shoebox. Finally after 9 years I decided for the sake of convenience and also I have wanted to be able to run the shoebox with the cover on as I have youngsters running around the pad and that’s how it was designed to be used. I went to my local hardware store and purchased a 105cfm computer fan and all hardware and electrical doodads and such. Quite easy to install, I simply added two double headed spade connectors to the factory wiring and ran a plug and play simple 120v fan cord which plugs directly into the fan and the other side wires into the shoebox, I then simply grounded the fan to the back of the shoebox housing which funny enough is the same screw grounding the factory wiring to the inside of the shoebox. I now have more than enough cooling capacity even with the cover on and no more messing around with a big clunky external fan. I have it wired up so when you plug in the shoebox it will automatically come on to pre-cool anything inside that needs it but more importantly it will continue to run even after I turn the On/Off switch to off to allow post-cooling. So far I’m happier than a pig in mud!!

 

[Ranchibi]

Awesome mods for an awesome compressor!

 

[Revoman]

While I already have fans on my 2 Boxes, I also added a small radiator to flow cool water through it to aid in cooling since I live in a hot clime during the summer. During summer months it stays in the +100° for days on end, so I tried it out.
It helps a lot.
A small aquarium pump does the pumping of the liquid and it's cooled via Pelican Ice packs in a small, lidded bucket to keep mosquitos out.
Funny, I see that you have small magnets holding on the appropriate Allen Wrenches on your Box as do I. No searching!
Good on ya keeping your children safe!

mike

 

[AlanMcD]

Nice! I am curious about one thing from your second picture - I don't see the pressure switch at the bottom of the main central block, and it looks like your piston rod block has the "old clanker" mechanical shut off arm on it, but with no spring? Just curious how the unit shuts off from a control standpoint?

I've done something I think is similar with my Shoebox Max compressor, in that I disabled the mechanical shut off and use a timer to control run times to a desired pressure level, and that is why I ask. But on mine I kept the spring and all that on it with an easy path back to conventional operation if needed.

 

[TnCnDn]

When I originally purchased this shoebox about 9 years ago I opted to order it without the built in fan as I was being cheap and wanted to save a few bucks and so I have ran my unit with the cover off using an external fan blowing directly into the shoebox. Finally after 9 years I decided for the sake of convenience and also I have wanted to be able to run the shoebox with the cover on as I have youngsters running around the pad and that’s how it was designed to be used. I went to my local hardware store and purchased a 105cfm computer fan and all hardware and electrical doodads and such. Quite easy to install, I simply added two double headed spade connectors to the factory wiring and ran a plug and play simple 120v fan cord which plugs directly into the fan and the other side wires into the shoebox, I then simply grounded the fan to the back of the shoebox housing which funny enough is the same screw grounding the factory wiring to the inside of the shoebox. I now have more than enough cooling capacity even with the cover on and no more messing around with a big clunky external fan. I have it wired up so when you plug in the shoebox it will automatically come on to pre-cool anything inside that needs it but more importantly it will continue to run even after I turn the On/Off switch to off to allow post-cooling. So far I’m happier than a pig in mud!!View attachment 526300View attachment 526301View attachment 526298View attachment 526299

8 or 10?

 

[Revoman]

In addition to AlanMcD's observation, it's odd that it has the old clacker system, which to memory used a chain-drive. Your Box has the toothed-belt-drive.
Perhaps there was a revision that was in the middle-ground between chain-drive and belt-drive that didn't have the auto-shut-off like the later models have? Or, I'm way off base as I have only seen the chain-drive with the clacker shut-off, not the belt-drive.
Good on ya for capping the inflow fitting, but there isn't a cap on the outflow fitting? BTW, I hate that spring thing on the on-off switch. Anyone find a better option to extend the toggle?

mike

 

[AirRanger]

It used to have the mechanical shutoff arm that smacks the on/off switch to off once pressure builds up enough but it was loud and I ended removing the spring and just tightening down the arm it connected too, it was unnecessary because I never leave it unattended for too long, there is a spot to add a pressure sensor to the air block and I may or may not add one at some point just because I love to tinker.

 

[AirRanger]

BTW this unit is neither a Shoebox F8 or F10 it’s not an original either, it’s a Shoebox Max with belt drive and mechanical shutoff arm , this is the first upgrade to the original chain drive. I was very fortunate to purchase all the replacement parts from Tom Kaye just before the shutdown, I plan on using this another 9 years just because it works so dam good!!! And as much as I hate to say this…. Someone needs to clone this because it is the best shop compressor accessory you could ever ask for, the ability to take 90-120psi all the way up to 4500psi is simply an amazing tool! I will purchase a decent scuba compressor probably a Coltri or Bauer at some point but this thing does everything I need for the moment.

 

[AirRanger]

Also I have read all your shoebox posts over the years Alan and the radiator is a great idea, I do borrow ideas from you guys from time to time. Please continue to sing the boxes praises!

 

[AlanMcD]

In addition to AlanMcD's observation, it's odd that it has the old clacker system, which to memory used a chain-drive. Your Box has the toothed-belt-drive.
Perhaps there was a revision that was in the middle-ground between chain-drive and belt-drive that didn't have the auto-shut-off like the later models have? Or, I'm way off base as I have only seen the chain-drive with the clacker shut-off, not the belt-drive.
Good on ya for capping the inflow fitting, but there isn't a cap on the outflow fitting? BTW, I hate that spring thing on the on-off switch. Anyone find a better option to extend the toggle?

mike

As AirRanger indicated, the Max model came with belt drive, mechanical shut off, and a "standard" cooling fan that could optionally be deleted for a cost savings. It was offered for a while at the same time as the F8, thus they ran at different speeds with different shut offs but had the same motor, cylinders, and pretty much everything else . . . I ordered my Max with the cooling fan, but still prefer to run it with the cover off and air blasting over the cylinders.

 

[JackHughs]

BTW this unit is neither a Shoebox F8 or F10 it’s not an original either, it’s a Shoebox Max with belt drive and mechanical shutoff arm , this is the first upgrade to the original chain drive. I was very fortunate to purchase all the replacement parts from Tom Kaye just before the shutdown, I plan on using this another 9 years just because it works so dam good!!! And as much as I hate to say this…. Someone needs to clone this because it is the best shop compressor accessory you could ever ask for, the ability to take 90-120psi all the way up to 4500psi is simply an amazing tool! I will purchase a decent scuba compressor probably a Coltri or Bauer at some point but this thing does everything I need for the moment.

I found the sales invoice for my Shoebox Max with belt drive and clacker. In 2012, the total cost was $726.00 which included $45.00 for the fan upgrade and $25.00 for a Maintenance Kit. Mine suffered what appears to be a catastrophic o-ring failure in the HP cylinder a month ago leaving a black gooey mess in the block and output fitting. I'm OK with a rebuild but I'm dreading the prospect of tearing it down and cleaning the mess.

JackHughs

 

[AirRanger]

Yeah you’ll definitely know when an o-ring goes bad because the old grease will make its way to the air block and been there done that and have the postcard to boot! Simple o-ring replacement and your all set, just make sure when you reassemble it you check that your piston rods have the correct stroke length, Tom has a video that you’ve probably already watched 100 times as I did but yeah just a little love and care and lube and she’s your best friend!!!

 

[Revoman]

JachHughs​

Yeah, I get that deep gray colored stuff once in a while, not certain of exactly what it is. I thought that perhaps I was using too much silicone oil on the lubrication felts, not sure though.
Rebuild is very easy however, just make sure that reassembly has all parts very clean.
You're lucky with the HP piston as any parts needed, such as the Delrin spacers, are still available from OCO Labs....they DO NOT have anything available for the LP piston. Those spacers are something that I could not find to duplicate the original on my parts spreadsheet.
I developed a good way to clean out the cylinders:
Get a rubber cap that fits tightly on the outlet side of the cylinder. When installed it keeps cleaning solution inside the cylinder.
Find another rubber cap the correct diameter of the 'reduced' section, where the air holes reside, and cut a piece of the rubber cap down to fit into that grooved area tightly. This also prevents solution from leaking out.
Put enough cleaning solution into the cylinder to about 1" below full, put another rubber cap on the inlet side of the cylinder and vigorously shake the cylinder to remove all of the gunk inside when poured out.
Then rinse with very hot water and dry with compressed air.
I might imagine that this can also be done with the Main Block except you would need rubber corks instead (?).
My 2¢.

mike

 

[JackHughs]

JachHughs​

Yeah, I get that deep gray colored stuff once in a while, not certain of exactly what it is. I thought that perhaps I was using too much silicone oil on the lubrication felts, not sure though.
Rebuild is very easy however, just make sure that reassembly has all parts very clean.
You're lucky with the HP piston as any parts needed, such as the Delrin spacers, are still available from OCO Labs....they DO NOT have anything available for the LP piston. Those spacers are something that I could not find to duplicate the original on my parts spreadsheet.
I developed a good way to clean out the cylinders:
Get a rubber cap that fits tightly on the outlet side of the cylinder. When installed it keeps cleaning solution inside the cylinder.
Find another rubber cap the correct diameter of the 'reduced' section, where the air holes reside, and cut a piece of the rubber cap down to fit into that grooved area tightly. This also prevents solution from leaking out.
Put enough cleaning solution into the cylinder to about 1" below full, put another rubber cap on the inlet side of the cylinder and vigorously shake the cylinder to remove all of the gunk inside when poured out.
Then rinse with very hot water and dry with compressed air.
I might imagine that this can also be done with the Main Block except you would need rubber corks instead (?).
My 2¢.

mike

Thanks,

I would not have thought to use rubber stoppers to aid in cleaning the block. All suggestions are welcome as the gunk is so thick in the block that the bleed screw will not fully close. It may be a while before I get around to rebuilding the Shoebox. In the meantime, I hope the new CS4-i keeps on ticking. I intend to inspect the grease cup tomorrow.

JackHughs

 

[AlanMcD]

It was time to give my backup Shoebox compressor a functional run (something I do at least every several months so it does not sit too long unused). It is an F10, but slowed down with an F8 drive cog in it for lower temps and less load on the crank bearings (I think the F8 speed was the real sweet spot for these units).

Anyways, I opted to do a test of sorts. I always have my units with the covers off, with a pair of high volume pancake fans salvaged from a dead air hockey table blasting air over the cylinders. For this run, I decided to leave the cover on and see what the cylinder temps would reach with the internal F10 fan, which of course is a lot higher capacity than the fan on the older Shoebox Max model.

I always run the units in my basement workshop where ambient air temp is pretty consistently around 67-68 F, and the highest temp I ever recorded with an IR thermometer was about 84 F when running with the covers off. This time with the covers on the peak temperature I got while scanning both cylinders was 95 F. So it is clear to me that, at least in my situation, running with the covers off and with higher external airflow leads to a lower running temperature.

 

[Revoman]

AlanMcD​

Good information on your experiment Alan.
I use mine in my garage, I don't have a basement, and as stated in previous posts, I live in a warm clime. In the summer it easily reaches into the low 100° F, so my fix is the small aquarium pump using ice water and a small radiator to keep the temperature down. Without that the Box will run up to around 140° F. While the O-Rings are up to the task, the spacers suffer.
With the rig as I now have it set up, it hovers around ±100° F. This running with the cover on.
I will try with the cover off, but from memory, it seems that the cover on keeps the cool air inside longer to cool better.
Thanks for the information though, I will give it a go on my next fill, likely on this Saturday or Sunday.

mike

 

[AlanMcD]

AlanMcD​

Good information on your experiment Alan.
I use mine in my garage, I don't have a basement, and as stated in previous posts, I live in a warm clime. In the summer it easily reaches into the low 100° F, so my fix is the small aquarium pump using ice water and a small radiator to keep the temperature down. Without that the Box will run up to around 140° F. While the O-Rings are up to the task, the spacers suffer.
With the rig as I now have it set up, it hovers around ±100° F. This running with the cover on.
I will try with the cover off, but from memory, it seems that the cover on keeps the cool air inside longer to cool better.
Thanks for the information though, I will give it a go on my next fill, likely on this Saturday or Sunday.

mike

In your case, in which you are pumping air that is cooled below ambient into the box, you are much better off with the cover on - your data seems to prove it: if you are getting cylinder temps of ~100F in ~100F ambient conditions, then you are winning! Remember, I'm getting ~85F in ~68F ambient conditions with the cover off, so that is close to a 20F rise while running with great cooling (~30F with the cover on). That would indicate that you must be getting your incoming air down to about 70F or so with your chiller. Great work!

 

[Revoman]

Well, I hadda top off one of my Great White tanks this afternoon.
So, I ran the Box with the cover on for about 20 minutes, the temperature was 126° from ambient of 73°. I then continued without shutting it off but sans cover. It ran for another 16 minutes and the temperature was 124°. This without any extra fans blowing from the front, just the larger computer fan that I installed when I installed the radiator.
No radiator was used.
With a variable temperature, a 2° delta ain't much. As you well know, it does run much cooler with the radiator, so my next fill I will do the same, run with the cover, then without in the same top off session.
The Great White topped off in 36 minutes from 4,000 PSI to 4,300PSI, or ± 8.33 minutes per 100PSI. When filling around 650PSI is runs
± 9.03 minutes per 100PSI.