Air tank valve stop??

[AlanMcD]

OK. Now with @rcs9250 's comment about the hard brass collar possibly bottoming out, I have another new hair brained idea - sand down the full base of the part to get more engagement wht a little more turn of the knob . . .

If the brass does extend past the plastic (like in rcs9250's illustration, it would be pretty easy to do a flat sanding approach, but if the plastic is flush it would be hard to do that without embedding swarf in the plastic - that would probably call for sanding the brass on an angle to keep the plastic from contacting the paper (or file, if you go that route) too.

Of course once done, you could then apply a little heat to the plastic to smooth it out too . . .

But I do hope you find a new part at a reasonable price!

 

[rcs9250]

OK. Now with @rcs9250 's comment about the hard brass collar possibly bottoming out, I have another new hair brained idea - sand down the full base of the part to get more engagement wht a little more turn of the knob . . .

If the brass does extend past the plastic (like in rcs9250's illustration, it would be pretty easy to do a flat sanding approach, but if the plastic is flush it would be hard to do that without embedding swarf in the plastic - that would probably call for sanding the brass on an angle to keep the plastic from contacting the paper (or file, if you go that route) too.

Of course once done, you could then apply a little heat to the plastic to smooth it out too . . .

But I do hope you find a new part at a reasonable price!

Yep, that’s something that might work. File the brass carefully so that the roll crimp is removed. I don’t think it’s possible for air to get under the nylon insert (area A in photo) and pneumatically eject the insert but you could always cross drill at the point shown at the lower short arrow and install a roll pin and file ends of roll pin flush with brass OD.

Another thing to do before filing off roll crimp that could verify if the brass roll crimp is contacting the valve body is to get a Sharpie and make a black ring as shown in red on second photo, then assemble valve, crank the valve closed like you normally would and then disassemble and see if the Sharpie transferred onto valve body and has rubbed off of roll crimp.

 

[Revoman]

AlanMcD​

Any and all "hairbrained" ideas are taken seriously by me. I'm glad that you have offered them up!
It might be something to try if all of my other, not so hairbrained, ideas don't pan out.
Thanks!

rcs9250​

Good stuff!
As above, I am open to any and all ideas to mitigate the exorbitant cost that Brancato is charging, unless there IS nothing else that can be done.
Thank you for your continuing comments and support!

mike

 

[kayaker]

I would think a dive shop could help you out, I did find this on google (Breathing Air Systems) the part was $6.62 not sure if it would work best of luck.
edit: (Dive gear express) sells a 5 thread and a 7 thread for $8.00 but I'd do a dive shop first.

 

[Aimright]

A few pics of my valve repair from 2020 on my Drager scba valve that had ~10 years of service with the Phoenix Fire Department before I got it. In the one pic that shows both the new and old nylon seat you can really see what ten years of firefighters cranking the valve shut does to the nylon. Fortunately the hard seat was fine and the new parts fixed the leak.