Air tank valve stop??

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Revoman

Revoman

Member
May 4, 2018
2,523
1,573
San Diego East County, California
Hello AGN'ers!

I have a Tiger Shark from Brancato, it has a small leak, I assume through the brass, threaded valve stop with the Teflon (?) insert.
Brancato will NOT sell just that piece, they only sell the entire 'top end parts' as a single sale item at $90 + Shipping/Handling.
I tried the local dive shop and it seems that there valve stops are CLOSE, but will not thread into the female stem part. I believe that the valve assembly is made overseas, likely in Europe (?), so probably a metric thread, thus the dive shops here don't have them.
So the question is;
Does anyone know where to purchase just the brass threaded stop?
Looks like this....
Tank Stop 1.jpgTank Stop 2.jpgTank Stop 3.jpgTank Stop 4.jpgTank Stop 5.jpg


mike
 

Scotty1​

From what I have learned so far (what I've been told anyway), it's not pressed-in, it's molded into place as there is a retaining lip holding it in place. It would not be retrievable without damaging either the Teflon or the brass lip.
Flipping over would definitely be the hot trick to so though!

​

AlanMcD​

Doesn't sound hair-brained to me Alan. Once I find a replacement, so as to not deface this one too bad while using it for comparison reasons, I will give that a try for the next time one is needed.
Thanks for the idea!
mike
 
Upvote 0
Revoman said:
Hello AGN'ers!

I have a Tiger Shark from Brancato, it has a small leak, I assume through the brass, threaded valve stop with the Teflon (?) insert.
Brancato will NOT sell just that piece, they only sell the entire 'top end parts' as a single sale item at $90 + Shipping/Handling.
I tried the local dive shop and it seems that there valve stops are CLOSE, but will not thread into the female stem part. I believe that the valve assembly is made overseas, likely in Europe (?), so probably a metric thread, thus the dive shops here don't have them.
So the question is;
Does anyone know where to purchase just the brass threaded stop?
Looks like this....
View attachment 552393View attachment 552392View attachment 552391View attachment 552390View attachment 552389


mike
Click to expand...
Don’t know if the stop in this kit is the same size as yours. I purchased this to repair my Drager scba valve several years ago, worked great.
https://www.augustindustries.com/product/repair-kit-for-standard-line-valves/

I might have saved my old stop from my rebuild, I will rummage around tomorrow and will post up dimensions if I find it.
 
Upvote 0

BlackICE​

A bolt would not work as there is a stem that is held within the valve stop bonnet/top that looks like this....

Pic Bonnet 8.jpg


Pic Bonnet 7.jpg


Pic Bonnet 9.jpg


Aimright​


I'm not sure that the link provided has METRIC product (?). Per the AI Picture search, it comes up as a "LOLA" valve stop from Europe, which I assume is Metric dimensioned.

Thanks a bunch for the input on all counts!!

Mike
 
Upvote 0
No luck in finding my old one which is odd for me to throw anything out like that. Sure it will show up in one of my “miscellaneous nuts and other worthless parts I will never use again” stashes around my workshop or shed😂. Hard to say on if the thread type is metric or
standard - the Drager tanks are made in Maryland by Carleton but Drager is headquartered in Germany.
 
Upvote 0
Here is the manufacturing process for the soft seat assembly (your brass piece).
They make the brass portion as shown in left view. They then insert the nylon seat into the brass portion and then the brass at top is pressed or rolled over the top so as to retain the nylon soft seat.
There’s no practical way of removing the old plug without ruining the brass portion.
A machinist could very easily make a new one from a brass bolt of the correct diameter and thread pitch or make the entire part from scratch, which is a bit more time consuming.

I serviced many scuba valves when I was in the business. Often times the soft seat assembly was replaced because the operator cranked the snot out of the valve when closing valve. It does not require a Herculean strength to seal off a tank valve.
I suspect the the rolled over brass end of the assembly is bottoming out in the area of the valves hard seat and not sealing.
My previous post asked where the leak might be coming from.
If the air is leaking out of the tank outlet, then it’s the high pressure seat that is the bad actor. But if the air is leaking while you are refilling your gun, the leak may be from the bonnets sealing areas, in which there are two seals in that area.
Let me know where you believe the leak is coming from.

IMG_1731.jpeg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
  • Haha
Reactions: Mike_Lenardon and Humdinger
Upvote 0

rcs9250​

Cool pics!
I'm sure that it's leaking via the Nylon stop as I shut it off, and as always, put a small rubber cap over the connector end (No dirt!).
The cap is usually sitting on my garage floor somewhere after it has popped off from air forcing it off of the connector. Then, of course, there is less are showing on the tank gauge than when it was filled/topped off.

I'm gonna try Gerry52's suggestion as it's fairly close to me (± 30 miles) and I haven't been downtown for ages.
If they don't have anything, then I'll await a few replies from some vendors that I asked about the stop.
Sans any good information after that, I suppose that I'll have to buy that EXPENSIVE Brancato fix bonnet with the stop inside of it.
I HATE getting beat by vendors.....a $7 dollar stop part, or a $90 bonnet....what a rip-off!

Aimright​


That video is freakin' HILARIOUS (No way!)!!
mike
 
Upvote 0
Revoman said:

rcs9250​

Cool pics!
I'm sure that it's leaking via the Nylon stop as I shut it off, and as always, put a small rubber cap over the connector end (No dirt!).
The cap is usually sitting on my garage floor somewhere after it has popped off from air forcing it off of the connector. Then, of course, there is less are showing on the tank gauge than when it was filled/topped off.

I'm gonna try Gerry52's suggestion as it's fairly close to me (± 30 miles) and I haven't been downtown for ages.
If they don't have anything, then I'll await a few replies from some vendors that I asked about the stop.
Sans any good information after that, I suppose that I'll have to buy that EXPENSIVE Brancato fix bonnet with the stop inside of it.
I HATE getting beat by vendors.....a $7 dollar stop part, or a $90 bonnet....what a rip-off!

Aimright​


That video is freakin' HILARIOUS (No way!)!!
mike
Click to expand...
Be sure to look at the hard seat down inside the valve to make sure it isn’t damaged, or you will still have a leak even with new parts.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu