Hi, I have a new air venturi hpa 4500psi compressor I bought last year for $1300 from PA. I only used it a handful of times and today I went to fill a tank and the compressor won't turn on. The cooling system runs perfectly but the compressor switch does nothing. I read old forums on people having the same problem and nothing worked for me. I opened it up and changed the fuse with no luck. The switch looks fine as does all the wiring on the inside. I contacted air venturi and god only knows when ill get a response. I'm hoping its a simple fix. Any ideas?
Air venturi not starting?
- Thread starter Cerealkilla43
- Start date
Like seemingly all compressors made in China, many times lower grade components are used, and prematurely fail.
My similar (but not Air Venturi branded) compressor did the same thing as you describe. Cooling system (12 VDC side) worked just fine, but compressor would not run. Circuit breaker had not tripped. (Mine did not have also a separate fuse, as you checked/changed on yours).
I worked for several hours in an attempt to troubleshoot the thing and got no where. Seemed like I had proper 110V AC voltages wherever they should have been, but still had what seemed to be a dead compressor motor.
In the end mine was that the main compressor switch had internally (and not visibly) failed. I'm an idiot so in all my troubleshooting I had been checking voltages from the hot side of the switch, not the switched side. D'oh!
Anyway, the simple replacement of this $2.50 switch completely resolved my issue. YMMV
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08614BYNC/
My similar (but not Air Venturi branded) compressor did the same thing as you describe. Cooling system (12 VDC side) worked just fine, but compressor would not run. Circuit breaker had not tripped. (Mine did not have also a separate fuse, as you checked/changed on yours).
I worked for several hours in an attempt to troubleshoot the thing and got no where. Seemed like I had proper 110V AC voltages wherever they should have been, but still had what seemed to be a dead compressor motor.
In the end mine was that the main compressor switch had internally (and not visibly) failed. I'm an idiot so in all my troubleshooting I had been checking voltages from the hot side of the switch, not the switched side. D'oh!
Anyway, the simple replacement of this $2.50 switch completely resolved my issue. YMMV
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08614BYNC/
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Can you visually check the fuse to see of indeed it's a good non blown fuse or use an ohm meter?
Otherwise- (IF you're 100% SURE that the NEW fuse isn't blown too)-
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/air-venturi-issue/
DOES YOURS EXHIBIT THIS SYMPTOM?
https://youtu.be/a1oRHukBago
I'd try to make every effort to return it for a REFUND but that's just me reading way way way too many Air Venturi/Hatsan compressor failures.
I would get the NEW MODEL ALTAROS BOOSTER and a good VERY HIGH CFM shop compressor or Yong Heng with 4 year protection plan and whatever you buy use a credit card that effectively doubles your warranty..
Otherwise- (IF you're 100% SURE that the NEW fuse isn't blown too)-
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/air-venturi-issue/
DOES YOURS EXHIBIT THIS SYMPTOM?
https://youtu.be/a1oRHukBago
I'd try to make every effort to return it for a REFUND but that's just me reading way way way too many Air Venturi/Hatsan compressor failures.
I would get the NEW MODEL ALTAROS BOOSTER and a good VERY HIGH CFM shop compressor or Yong Heng with 4 year protection plan and whatever you buy use a credit card that effectively doubles your warranty..
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There is absolutely no noise whatsoever. The button isn't even lit up like the cooling on/off switch is.
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If it's (FOR SURE) NOT THE FUSE-
BE SURE TO FIRST TAKE PICTURES AND MARK THE COLOR CODED WIRES AND ASSOCIATED INDIVIDUAL PLUG POSITIONS ONE AT A TIME SO YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHERE EACH THE WIRES GO TO IN RELATION TO THE PLUGS UNDER THE SWITCH.
https://youtu.be/yOBTXfqeuvo
Based on TMH's suggestion.
Do you have a RADIO SHACK STILL OPEN?
IF NOT TAKE THE COMPRESSOR SWITCH TO YOUR LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE PARTS STORE SUCH AS NAPA OR O'REILLYS TO BUY SOMETHING SIMILAR.
BE SURE TO FIRST TAKE PICTURES AND MARK THE COLOR CODED WIRES AND ASSOCIATED INDIVIDUAL PLUG POSITIONS ONE AT A TIME SO YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHERE EACH THE WIRES GO TO IN RELATION TO THE PLUGS UNDER THE SWITCH.
https://youtu.be/yOBTXfqeuvo
Based on TMH's suggestion.
Do you have a RADIO SHACK STILL OPEN?
IF NOT TAKE THE COMPRESSOR SWITCH TO YOUR LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE PARTS STORE SUCH AS NAPA OR O'REILLYS TO BUY SOMETHING SIMILAR.
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I hate to admit it but I turned the plug on a non grounded extension cord the wrong way and my venturi compressor did the same thing. After a lot of trouble shooting I turned the plug around and it was back to normal and has worked fine ever since.
I know that most people don't have old non grounded outlets like I do but if you do it might be worth a try.
Mike
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Update.. installed new button and brand new fuse. Still nothing! Any ideas? I feel like its something very simple as it has been used only a hand full of times.
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Can anyone that has one confirm if the red light on the fuse box lights up or not? I just noticed mine is not lit even with new fuses
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Sounds like you have loose wire inside one of those factory crimped on spade connectors attached to the backside of the switches, motor, etc. Very easy to work loose in these vibrating compressors. Consider yourself lucky, as I have heard and witnessed switches frying out due to the arcing from loose wires. The arcing can also lead to component failures such as the water pump. Once you source the switches needed for your compressor, do yourself a huge favor and solder on 6” pigtails onto the switch spades, and from there wire nut and tape back onto the factory wiring leading onto the components. That way, if the switch ever fails, it’s just a matter of re soldering new pig tails onto a new switch and reattaching back with the wire nuts. I did that to my hatsan Lightning and miraculously it sounded better when running.
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Unfortunately your hope in the original post for a 'simple fix' is now greatly reduced. The issue may still be very simple, but you've got to go into deeper troubleshooting mode to find it. Like tracing voltages with a multi-meter.
The more expensive of these Chinese built compressors have a good deal of interlocks which can prevent the compressor motor from running.
1) Compressor motor will only run when cooling system is running;
2) High temperature shut-off;
3) High pressure shut-off;
4) High current drain shut-off (breaker/fuse).
Unfortunately, as I stated above, I have worked on mutiple similar compressors, but never the Air Venturi brand. And everyone seems to use the same canned photos on their web sites, so I can't even get a good view of what's inside this unit (under the exterior covers).
One quick thing you should be able to do WITH THE COMPRESSOR UNPLUGGED is to just see if the compressor/motor are free moving or frozen. The compressor motor (likely) has a built-in fan, under a large black shroud at its front. There will be slots in the front and rear of the shroud - place a screwdriver through the slots and see if you can easily turn the fan, or if it appears locked-up. The fan should rotate pretty easily. If it doesn't want to rotate at all, something may have seized in your motor or compressor.
Here is a photo of a 'similar type' compressor where I had the same issue as you describe. The blue arrows show where you can access the motor's fan blade. Note in this photo that I have removed ALL of the electronic control system and have actually wire-nutted a standard wall plug directly to the compressor motor. This test allowed me to understand that the motor was fine, but the problem was in the control system (in my case, the main compressor switch, as I described in an earlier post).
Once again, your compressor may look different in many ways, but I think most of these units use the same basic compressor/motor and differ in the overall 'packaging', how/if they integrate a cooling system and the extent of the control circuit.
The more expensive of these Chinese built compressors have a good deal of interlocks which can prevent the compressor motor from running.
1) Compressor motor will only run when cooling system is running;
2) High temperature shut-off;
3) High pressure shut-off;
4) High current drain shut-off (breaker/fuse).
Unfortunately, as I stated above, I have worked on mutiple similar compressors, but never the Air Venturi brand. And everyone seems to use the same canned photos on their web sites, so I can't even get a good view of what's inside this unit (under the exterior covers).
One quick thing you should be able to do WITH THE COMPRESSOR UNPLUGGED is to just see if the compressor/motor are free moving or frozen. The compressor motor (likely) has a built-in fan, under a large black shroud at its front. There will be slots in the front and rear of the shroud - place a screwdriver through the slots and see if you can easily turn the fan, or if it appears locked-up. The fan should rotate pretty easily. If it doesn't want to rotate at all, something may have seized in your motor or compressor.
Here is a photo of a 'similar type' compressor where I had the same issue as you describe. The blue arrows show where you can access the motor's fan blade. Note in this photo that I have removed ALL of the electronic control system and have actually wire-nutted a standard wall plug directly to the compressor motor. This test allowed me to understand that the motor was fine, but the problem was in the control system (in my case, the main compressor switch, as I described in an earlier post).
Once again, your compressor may look different in many ways, but I think most of these units use the same basic compressor/motor and differ in the overall 'packaging', how/if they integrate a cooling system and the extent of the control circuit.
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Sorry for the delay. For some reason I wasn't notified about the replies. I took of the side plate and the fan spins no problem whatsoever. I also checked the wires to the power switch and they are look fine and aren't loose. Attached are photos of the wiring under the switches. 
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O.K., fan spins which means that the compressor motor or the compressor itself are not locked up. That's good!
The component on the upper right side of your photo appears to be the re-settable circuit breaker. Do you have a multi-tester? With the power off there should be continuity between those 2 terminals. If not, then the main circuit breaker is in an 'open' state, and 120 VAC will not be getting to your compressor motor. If you don't have a multi-tester, you can (with compressor unplugged) jump those 2 terminals with a piece of wire, then plug it in and flip the correct switches to see if the compressor motor runs. If it does (don't run it for too long if you didn't use thick jumper wire), they you have a failed circuit breaker (which should always be replaced before using the unit otherwise fire hazard).
The component on the lower right side of your photo marked 'Omron' is an electro-mechanical relay. This serves as a 'gate', and will only allow AC power to go to the compressor motor when all control systems are in their appropriate 'good' state (cooling system turned on, over-temp circuit not tripped, high pressure limit not reached, etc.). The Omron relay is triggered by low voltage DC which, in the case of your compressor, is 24 VDC. The 24 VDC is 'created' by the AC/DC convertor, which is the silver box on the lower left side of your photo. The DC voltage is used to run the control system, the fan(s) and the coolant pump.
Hopefully you can get your ear close to the relay, or be able to see it well. With the compressor plugged in when you turn on just the cooling system switch you should be able to hear the relay 'click' closed, or be able to see a thin metal plate inside it swing to a different position (based on electromagnets being energized). If it doesn't click or close when you power on the cooling system, there are several potential issues:
1) The relay might be bad. These are cheap and readily available. (I actually replaced the one in my compressor with a better quality/more reliable solid state relay at a cost of $9, but that is a topic for another day);
2) Loose wire somewhere causing the 24 VDC current not to reach the relay to close it;
3) Any one of your other safety interlocks not working correctly. Overtemp sensor giving a false reading (causing the system to believe it is too hot to run). Adjustable pressure limit/cut-off switch giving a false reading (causing the system to believe that it has reached the pressure set-point and should shut down).
I guess that checking these things is where I would head, while awaiting any response from Air Venturi.
The component on the upper right side of your photo appears to be the re-settable circuit breaker. Do you have a multi-tester? With the power off there should be continuity between those 2 terminals. If not, then the main circuit breaker is in an 'open' state, and 120 VAC will not be getting to your compressor motor. If you don't have a multi-tester, you can (with compressor unplugged) jump those 2 terminals with a piece of wire, then plug it in and flip the correct switches to see if the compressor motor runs. If it does (don't run it for too long if you didn't use thick jumper wire), they you have a failed circuit breaker (which should always be replaced before using the unit otherwise fire hazard).
The component on the lower right side of your photo marked 'Omron' is an electro-mechanical relay. This serves as a 'gate', and will only allow AC power to go to the compressor motor when all control systems are in their appropriate 'good' state (cooling system turned on, over-temp circuit not tripped, high pressure limit not reached, etc.). The Omron relay is triggered by low voltage DC which, in the case of your compressor, is 24 VDC. The 24 VDC is 'created' by the AC/DC convertor, which is the silver box on the lower left side of your photo. The DC voltage is used to run the control system, the fan(s) and the coolant pump.
Hopefully you can get your ear close to the relay, or be able to see it well. With the compressor plugged in when you turn on just the cooling system switch you should be able to hear the relay 'click' closed, or be able to see a thin metal plate inside it swing to a different position (based on electromagnets being energized). If it doesn't click or close when you power on the cooling system, there are several potential issues:
1) The relay might be bad. These are cheap and readily available. (I actually replaced the one in my compressor with a better quality/more reliable solid state relay at a cost of $9, but that is a topic for another day);
2) Loose wire somewhere causing the 24 VDC current not to reach the relay to close it;
3) Any one of your other safety interlocks not working correctly. Overtemp sensor giving a false reading (causing the system to believe it is too hot to run). Adjustable pressure limit/cut-off switch giving a false reading (causing the system to believe that it has reached the pressure set-point and should shut down).
I guess that checking these things is where I would head, while awaiting any response from Air Venturi.
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Just got a multimeter and tested both terminals on the curcuit break and it is reading power even though the light on the curcuit breaker is not lit. When plugged in and starting cooling system I do indeed hear the relay clicking like you explained.
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EDIT/NOTE: before trying what I said to do in this post jump down to my later posts and try that stuff first.
WHEN TROUBLESHOOTING, ALWAYS START WITH THE EASIEST STUFF! See my very last post about the CHNT 32X fuse holder and make sure that fuse is good and able to pass current (continuity test with your multi-meter).
Well, now we can deduce that your electronic control system appears to be functioning like it should - when the status of all key parameters (cooling system on, not too hot, not at cut-off pressure), the relay is closing which should allow passage of 120 VAC to the compressor motor.
And the AC side circuit breaker appears to be good.
And we know that the system is receiving AC voltage from the wall socket, since that is what is powering the AC/DC Converter.
BUT the AC voltage is being interrupted somewhere between its source and the compressor motor. One interruption point is the main switch, but you have already replaced that.
Do you see the black plastic box on top of the compressor motor, above the left blue arrow in the photo I provided above?
Yours likely has one. Within it reside a couple of big capacitors. They 'soften' the impact of compressor motor start-up on your house circuit. Motors draw the highest amperage when they are just starting up/moving very slowly, and this can trip a home's normal 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. The capacitors prevent this from occurring (at least as often as it would without them).
If your compressor has such a little black box, the main 110 VAC feed from your control system goes into that box, to the capacitors, and then directly to the compressor motor (internal wiring which you cannot see.
If you can find the thick cable which goes into that black box, you should trace it back to where it is connected into the control system. If convenient you can disconnect it there, and wire-nut a spare wall plug (from an old computer or appliance? I save that stuff, but I know that not everybody does), and plug it directly into a wall outlet. This is treating your compressor motor just like it is a toaster - plug it directly into the wall and it will either work (start to run) or not. If it runs, we have confirmed that the compressor motor is good and we continue to troubleshoot the control system backwards from that point. If it doesn't run, then the compressor motor is the issue.
Perhaps lots of stuff and maybe getting out of your comfort zone a bit (?), but in the end you will know your equipment much better!
WHEN TROUBLESHOOTING, ALWAYS START WITH THE EASIEST STUFF! See my very last post about the CHNT 32X fuse holder and make sure that fuse is good and able to pass current (continuity test with your multi-meter).
Well, now we can deduce that your electronic control system appears to be functioning like it should - when the status of all key parameters (cooling system on, not too hot, not at cut-off pressure), the relay is closing which should allow passage of 120 VAC to the compressor motor.
And the AC side circuit breaker appears to be good.
And we know that the system is receiving AC voltage from the wall socket, since that is what is powering the AC/DC Converter.
BUT the AC voltage is being interrupted somewhere between its source and the compressor motor. One interruption point is the main switch, but you have already replaced that.
Do you see the black plastic box on top of the compressor motor, above the left blue arrow in the photo I provided above?
Yours likely has one. Within it reside a couple of big capacitors. They 'soften' the impact of compressor motor start-up on your house circuit. Motors draw the highest amperage when they are just starting up/moving very slowly, and this can trip a home's normal 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. The capacitors prevent this from occurring (at least as often as it would without them).
If your compressor has such a little black box, the main 110 VAC feed from your control system goes into that box, to the capacitors, and then directly to the compressor motor (internal wiring which you cannot see.
If you can find the thick cable which goes into that black box, you should trace it back to where it is connected into the control system. If convenient you can disconnect it there, and wire-nut a spare wall plug (from an old computer or appliance? I save that stuff, but I know that not everybody does), and plug it directly into a wall outlet. This is treating your compressor motor just like it is a toaster - plug it directly into the wall and it will either work (start to run) or not. If it runs, we have confirmed that the compressor motor is good and we continue to troubleshoot the control system backwards from that point. If it doesn't run, then the compressor motor is the issue.
Perhaps lots of stuff and maybe getting out of your comfort zone a bit (?), but in the end you will know your equipment much better!
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Wait a minute, and correct me if I am wrong. And I may not be understanding what you mean by "tested both terminals on the curcuit break and it is reading power". But if you are reading voltage across the 2 terminals of the circuit breaker doesn't that mean the breaker is open? If the breaker is closed it should be a 'short circuit' and there should be zero voltage across the 2 terminals.
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In looking at the photo provided and pondering this control system a bit more, it looks like the output from Omron electro-mechanical relay is what trips the low voltage side of the Fuji SJ-0G magnetic starter. L1 should be incoming and T1 outgoing (AC current).
What is the white component where you can just see the lettering 'HNT' between the SJ-0G and the Omron? Can you show a clearer photo of it? It appears that the output from the magnetic starter goes through it on its way to the compressor motor.(NO MORE NEED FOR ADDITIONAL PHOTO - I FIGURED OUT THAT COMPONENT IS A FUSE HOLDER)
What is the white component where you can just see the lettering 'HNT' between the SJ-0G and the Omron? Can you show a clearer photo of it? It appears that the output from the magnetic starter goes through it on its way to the compressor motor.(NO MORE NEED FOR ADDITIONAL PHOTO - I FIGURED OUT THAT COMPONENT IS A FUSE HOLDER)
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Also, a couple of multi-meter checks you can do:
1) The terminals marked 'A1+' and 'A2-" are the low voltage trip for the SJ-0G. With the compressor plugged in and with the coolant system turned on, are you getting 24 VDC across A1 and A2?
2) Not having a circuit diagram (I should have asked earlier - is one provided in the owners manual???) I am just guessing but the wire color and the electrical standard tells me that the circuit breaker is in the Line or Live side of the circuit, so that is a good test point. With your multi-meter set to read VAC, see if you have 110 volts between the black wire terminal of the circuit breaker and the connector screw labeled L2 on the SJ-0G (with compressor plugged in and the coolant system switched on).
3) Next, with the compressor in the same state (plugged in and with the coolant system on) and IF you had 110 VAC at test point L2, test for AC voltage on the SJ-0G at the screw labeled T2.
The control system appears to use the 24 VDC output from the Omron to close the circuit on the SJ-0G and allow AC current to flow from L2 to T2, and out to the compressor motor. If you don't have 24 volts at A1 and A2, then the control system is not telling the SJ-0g to let the AC current flow. L2 is the hot side and should still read 110 V, but T2 (the switched side) never would.
If you are reading 110 V at T2, then AC current is getting really close to the compressor motor and we just have to figure out what is happening (or not happening) downstream from T2.
1) The terminals marked 'A1+' and 'A2-" are the low voltage trip for the SJ-0G. With the compressor plugged in and with the coolant system turned on, are you getting 24 VDC across A1 and A2?
2) Not having a circuit diagram (I should have asked earlier - is one provided in the owners manual???) I am just guessing but the wire color and the electrical standard tells me that the circuit breaker is in the Line or Live side of the circuit, so that is a good test point. With your multi-meter set to read VAC, see if you have 110 volts between the black wire terminal of the circuit breaker and the connector screw labeled L2 on the SJ-0G (with compressor plugged in and the coolant system switched on).
3) Next, with the compressor in the same state (plugged in and with the coolant system on) and IF you had 110 VAC at test point L2, test for AC voltage on the SJ-0G at the screw labeled T2.
The control system appears to use the 24 VDC output from the Omron to close the circuit on the SJ-0G and allow AC current to flow from L2 to T2, and out to the compressor motor. If you don't have 24 volts at A1 and A2, then the control system is not telling the SJ-0g to let the AC current flow. L2 is the hot side and should still read 110 V, but T2 (the switched side) never would.
If you are reading 110 V at T2, then AC current is getting really close to the compressor motor and we just have to figure out what is happening (or not happening) downstream from T2.
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O.K., also just answered my own question from above with a little Googling. The white CHNT 32X is a fuse holder, which has an LED indicator light. Did you say that you changed this fuse? With the coolant system and compressor switch turned on, does the red LED glow? With the system turned off did you check continuity between the inlet and outlet screw terminals of the 32X (to verify a good fuse inside)?
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Yes, I changed the fuse from the old to a replacement that was sent and also bought another from pyramid air. All the fuses are good, just for some reason the fuse light is not lit. I'm not getting any vdc or ac readings whatsoever turned on with cooling system running. Only readings I'm getting is the continuity lol. Does that make sense?
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