Airmaks Caiman - a definitive regulator fix!

Reseat the valve, screw the plenum and tube back together, reassemble and reset you hammer spring tension.

Edit: it’s probably a good idea to pull the reg from the tube and put it into the plenum , ensuring that the valve rod is seated properly before screwing back together! Otherwise, you might have trouble filling the tube 😉

Here it is snugly fitted with the valve rod/pin showing:

70E789CB-175A-4CCF-B7BD-30C124F25DB7.jpeg
 
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Tested again after reassembly and everything looks good. I’m getting the same 925-930fps from my Zan slugs at 270bar and 160bar fill pressures. Prior to the fix, it would drop from 925-930 to around 860 across that range.

Shooting it again today , I notice that it’s actually more accurate than my Taipan Vet, so I think it’s worth the effort to fix it!
 
Thanks Mike - I recall encouraging orangeokie (who requested this above) to buy a Caimen, so it’s only fair that I also help to get it working properly! If you or orangeokie do this mod, please chime in with before and after shot string results. I’ll be checking mine again after this dis- and re-assembly…
Awesome write up and photos. Thanks a million.
 
I got my Caiman X almost two weeks ago and have been struggling at what I have described as a huge extreme spread. I did not shoot a really long string from 300 bar to the reg pressure (which is 100 bar on my 22) but my velocities would start high when I first started shooting on a given day and gradually decrease as I shot more. Leaving it sit for an hour didn't seem to do much, it needed to sit for 8 hours or more for the velocity to come back up to where it was. I got extreme spread over 50 fps. Might as well not have a regulator.

So with some reluctance (to modify a new expensive (at least to me) gun) I did this modification. The short story is it worked. My ES was under 30 for a 24 shot string late yesterday and when I went to shoot it a few minutes ago it was shooting at the same velocity after sitting overnight! An ES in the 20s is bad relative to my 4 other regulated guns but it's about half what it was. I'm still only at around 500 pellets through it so it might get better. But with the current ES my POI at 30 yards won't be changing. It didn't move all that much when it was closer to 60 but it was enough to reduce my score on the first few 30 yard challenge targets. Maybe 1/8th of an inch, probably a little less. Now it should not be an issue at 30 yards, might still affect things when I try longer distance.

Thanks Weevil for the great modification discovery and the great instructions on how to do it. I have a couple updates relative to my second generation Caiman. First, degassing is different. My Caiman has what I consider a normal degassing screw - but it is kind of hidden. The two attachment screws for the airtube to the rest of the gun are now in line with the airtube instead of on either side of the back end. The front attachment screw goes into the degassing screw. Tightens against it. The one further to the rear of the gun goes into a chamfer - it is a grub screw. You have to back the one more forward (and under the trigger rod) out a lot to free up the air tube. Second, the second generation shroud is not held by grub screws, it just unscrews. Other than these changes related to the gun update Weevil's instructions work great. Another change on the newer model is the safety location. It is above the trigger on mine, not in the rear. To pull it there are two screws in the trigger guard. One is below an access hole and it kind of tightens against the safety piece. You want to back it off a lot or remove it. You don't have to mess with the other one but the other screw is on a flat spring pushing a ball bearing into the safety rod. If you loosen it 1/4 turn you should not have to tap on the safety rod to remove it, you should be able to lift it out with your fingers.

My other comment may just be my gun but the issue did not pretty much completely go away until I also removed a bit of the thread that was under the vent hole in the airtube. I used a very small number size drill bit into the vent hole with the plenum piece in place to mark the location of the vent. I drilled a slight amount into the plenum piece. Then I used a diamond burr to take out that tiny area of that last thread. Same idea as Weevil's original, just letting the regulator breath.

I don't know why my Caiman's ES is still in the 20s but I measured the size of the hole over the valve. It is over 1/4 inch! The barrel port has to be much smaller, 75-85% of the .22 bore diameter. I don't know if the entire passage to the barrel port is this big or what. But on my other guns, when the transfer port is larger, the ES goes up. Might be what is going on. My Caiman will shoot 18 grain pellets over 940 fps at the peak of the hammer spring with it's 100 bar regulator setting. I have it turned down to about 875 fps but being able to get upper 30s fpe from a 100 bar setting seems really high to me - consistent with having a really open path from the valve to the barrel. An ES under thirty is a lot better than an ES just under 60, however. Actually if I had shot my gun all the way down as I got it, I think it would have varied 100 fps or more.

Thanks again to Weevil.
 
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I love my Caiman but it developed some weird problems. I would bring to shoot and it would be shooting way low, like under 500 fps even thought I had just tuned it to shoot 16 gr FX pellets at 875. Turn the hammer spring up to get to 875 again, then after some shots it would go up to over 1000 fps, so frustrating.

Then i read this thread and thought what do I have to lose, well it was pretty easy to do and the results are fantastic.

I really like how the Caiman shoots and handles, so compact, but a Tanto on it and 18 gr FX/JSB at 840 it is stupid accurate/

With a mild breeze, pretty easy to shoot 1/2 to 3/4 groups at 50 yds.

One of my favorite AGs.

Thanks for the post!
 
I've got a...couple (!)...of Caimans, and a Caiman X .

So far...I've had no problems with any of them But I also have them shooting between 800fps. and about 810fps. I see no need in stressing the interior mechanics, if I don't need to.
Just like the Europeans (UK etc.), they shoot just fine at distance, at slower speeds .

Maybe the slower speed that I've adjusted to, doesn't cause the regulator problems that some others have had ??

One of mine -
1717721590591.jpeg


Mike
 
I posted a thread a couple weeks ago on a potential fix for an issue that is known to afflict many Airmaks Caimans. This is characterized as a slowly descending shot speed that takes place gradually as air tube pressure decreases, in spite of the presence of a regulator. In my original thread, I performed a modification of the reg that involved replacing what seemed to be a soft plastic piston seal with a delrin disc. You can read about it here:


When I put the gun back together, the issue seemed to be fixed, but upon further use over the next few days, the symptom of descending shot speed returned. My Caiman was shooting at 920fps at 270bar, 880fps when tube pressure reduced to 220bar and 840fps at 170bar. All in spite of having the reg set at 110bar. In frustration, I then switched to the use of a Lane Katran regulator, which I had acquired earlier. To my surprise, it exhibited the exact same issue!

This led me to engage in an extensive study of regulator function, using a wide range of online resources. I won’t go into technical details, but I came to the conclusion that the reg was likely not breathing (venting to atmosphere) adequately. This typically yields a gradual increase in plenum pressure that makes the valve harder to open with the same hammer strike, releasing less air and resulting in declining shot speed.

I decided to dive in to the internals again to investigate. The caiman air tube is a two piece affair with a plenum, valve and transfer port in one piece that screws into the main air tube such that the threads on the plenum piece intersect with a breathing hole for the reg that is drilled into the air tube. A pretty common design that allows the reg to vent to atmosphere through the threads. The reg itself press fits into the plenum and is sealed at its distal end by an Oring inside the plenum and at its proximal end by another Oring that sits in the air tube beyond its vent hole. So the idea is that the reg can vent between those two Orings and air can escape through the threads. To facilitate this goal, Airmaks put a chamfer on the shoulder of the plenum where the regulator presses into it, such that air can escape from the reg vent hole and pass into the threads. However, there is a collar on the regulator that allows it to be pressed firmly against the (very flat and smooth) end of the plenum once the tube is filled with high pressure air. The underlying assumption here must be that these two metal surfaces can’t generate a good enough seal to prevent air from passing into the threads and venting. However, my inspection of the system indicates that this is the only potential design flaw that could lead to a failure to vent. Fortunately, I could see a very simple and low risk fix for this “putative” issue that essential amounts to roughing up this joint such that it can’t provide a seal. So I set about filing a small groove at the end of the plenum (which the reg collar presses against) so that it can’t possibly be air tight. This should allow air to escape through the gap and access the threads and subsequently, the air tube breathing hole. Lo and behold, it has been working like a charm with the gun shooting at 920fps from 300bar to 120bar. I’ve tested 8 refills over the course of the past 5 days and there has been absolutely no hint of the problem. I’ve also replicated the original problem by artificially sealing the tube vent hole. Sure enough the descending shot speed returned (in a more aggressive form). Removing the seal then relieves the problem. Therefore, at this point, I’m very confident in my findings and proposed fix. It works with either the original or Lane reg and I suspect that it’ll work without any of the other fixes that I documented in my original thread.

I realize that the Caimans are not the most popular bullpups out there, but if you’re saddled with one that has this affliction, this free and easy fix might be worth a shot. All you need to do is degas and remove the air tube, unscrew the plenum (the reg will remain stuck in the air tube), file a tiny slot into the end of the plenum (just before the threads begin) and put things back together. It’s a 15 min job and you don’t have to mess with the reg settings or retune.

On the following schematic the little slot is filed at the end of the plenum, exactly where the number (21) is shown:


Finally, I also know that some Caiman owners don’t seem to have this issue. MikeVV, on here, for example… Based on my discoveries, I would posit that some guns may have plenums that aren’t machined perfectly and therefore don’t generate an air tight seal against the collar of the reg.
Hi weevil, thank you so much for the valuable posting.

Is there any leakage after you made small groove in the end of tube? Even small leakage from the air bottle?

Thank you in advance