Huben All Things HUBEN K1 - Master Thread

Sounds like the adjustment rod is longer than necessary. It has a clevis on at least the rear end. Shorten it up and make sure clevis screw is tight.
@Sergye1972 Before attempting something like that, I'd at least like to see if trying to play with adjustment screw would make any sort of difference. I really have not spent a lot of time consistently learning this rifle. It's still fun to shoot from time to time.
 
@Sergye1972 Before attempting something like that, I'd at least like to see if trying to play with adjustment screw would make any sort of difference. I really have not spent a lot of time consistently learning this rifle. It's still fun to shoot from time to time.

Rod 122 has clevis at both ends. Screw 134 most likely loose. (since you haven't taken it apart the rod in the 2 clevises is probably set for the same length it was before). The 2 trigger/sear adjustment screws at back of receiver are likely still set correctly adjust as last resort (2 adjustments and you need to know what you are doing). The loose screw #134 will increase travel as would improper clevis adjustment.
 
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It didn't come in an AGN search so I'd like to ask is anyone using a Robert Lane regulator in their K1? If so, what are the advantages of installing one over the factory reg or a Huma Air reg?
Advantage of Lane regulator is the consistency with no creep. But its not a direct replacement since its not externally adjustable. Lane regulators in the K1 can only be adjusted with it exposed. Huben had problems with consistent regulators up until 2020. After that the regulators are good once broken in.
 
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Advantage of Lane regulator is the consistency with no creep. But its not a direct replacement since its not externally adjustable. Lane regulators in the K1 can only be adjusted with it exposed. Huben had problems with consistent regulators up until 2020. After that the regulators are good once broken in.
@kevtan External adjustability is exactly what I was wondering about. Thank you.
 
Well, it is a bullpup/linkage trigger. Thread tolerances between the connecting rod and its front & rear links are pretty loose. As previously mentioned, thread locker will remove some play here as well as securing the rear clevis screw. The trigger itself has an adjustment screw and there are 1st & 2nd stage screws at the back of the receiver.
After making all adjustments to my liking, I found a way to eliminate overtravel by adding some epoxy behind the safety lever which limits how far the trigger link can move after releasing the sear.
This does NOT affect the safety's intended function.

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2.45mm thick. I was thinking maybe that part myself(have not yeat dissasembled more) i sold my k1 to a beginner,told best to use beast/redesign that i provided.. he then had some old pointed pellets and wanted to shoot them avay.. =jammed up, then he went on youtube and started the work=did not gett all pressure away and .. then this part leftover,airleak somewhere and magazine lock doesnt work. So now iam studying the thing

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253 or .254 for huben. To loose, no shoot
I know it's the preferred the size for the huben. I've shot the apolos out of the k1 and they shot fine as long as you weren't aiming down at a 45 degree angle and shooting more than once and those were .250. As per huben the jsb knock outs shoot well out of those as well and they are 250
 
Good morning, This is concerning the loading gate on the Hubens. The loading gate is a weak point on the Hubens, my opinion . The factory only lets you only one pellet at a time, sucks. I tried softening up the gate with a lighter to deform it to allow loading two pellets at a time, nah looked like Ozarkian solution. If you're from the Ozarks don't get your undies in a bind, I to live in Missouri. I next tried the 3d printed gates, better being able to load three pellets at a time, durability was a problem . The gates broke where the countersunk top screw is, all three of them. I needed a metal gate, searched. I ran across a photo of GK1 with a different gate, looked into them. I found metal gates made Ares Airguns Tactical, www. aresairguntactical.com out of Georgia. I ordered three of them, installation is a breeze.
 
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Here is a link to a quick and simple barrel cleaning method that I devised:

Thank you. I will add this to the compilation of informational links in post #17.
 
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2.45mm thick. I was thinking maybe that part myself(have not yeat dissasembled more) i sold my k1 to a beginner,told best to use beast/redesign that i provided.. he then had some old pointed pellets and wanted to shoot them avay.. =jammed up, then he went on youtube and started the work=did not gett all pressure away and .. then this part leftover,airleak somewhere and magazine lock doesnt work. So now iam studying the thing

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figure it out? is the magazine cycling to the next pellet after firing a round? find the leak?