Huben All Things HUBEN K1 - Master Thread

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@Pfddi I went out to 75 yards with the 15.89 grain Jumbo pellets the other day and my target looked like it was shot with a shotgun. The pellets were dropping at random. So as of now I know what can be done within 50 yards, but I may have to play with the velocity (wheel). Or it may prefer heavier projectiles.

I was thinking about getting a short pic rail for the underside of the fore grip for a bipod or QD swivel stud. I have never installed one.
 
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I’m going to need one of my own at some point. Lots of close friends have them now. Me of which, sold everything else. i Was always nervous about the non removable magamine. Having young kids in the house, I always keep my guns locked up, and the ammo and mags separate. Having non removable mags would mean having to shoot all the ammo every session, and not having it ready to go when I needed it. That’s what put me off. The benefits are starting to outweigh that now though, and I may just have to buy a safe to keep it in instead.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
I was able to get in contact with Kelly and ordered a loading gate for $48 shipped. Yea I know kinda steep, but not too much more than the price of the loading gate on Ebay (it was priced in British pounds IIRC). Kelly seems like a decent guy tot deal with. As for the sling studs, as I mentioned, the vendor advised me to use Allen studs. My thing is that I am not too enthusiastic to use sling studs made for a wood stock in a synthetic/plastic stock in my Huben. The Allen set in the link below comes with one stud for wood (threads look like a wood screw) and another for synthetic stocks (thread look like a machine screw). I want to give the machine studs a go.

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The ones from Jan and Kelly are 3d printed and are fragile. I broke one I got from Jan. His design doesn’t allow the gate to lay flat on the action when open, leaving a small gap between the gate and action. So if you press on it hard enough it will snap the hinge. The eBay one from Eastern Europe is not made from a 3d printer. It’s instead made using ABS in an injection mold. I’m waiting for one in the mail hopefully it’s stronger than the 3d printed ones
 
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@Ezana4CE Here's a better picture with measurements for you. I'm probably going to add the longer one just so I can add a bipod/tripod and light at the same time. The shorter one would work fine for picatinny to arca rail adapter.

The .25 definitely likes the heavier ammo! You might go heavier to see if your groups turn out better. I haven't done the slugs yet as I want to run a few hundred pellets through first, but all the slugs I have are heavier than the the 33.95s I'm currently using. I definitely want to switch over for hunting.

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Okay I am new to the huben world but I liked them so much the leshiy 2 can go and I now have one in .22 and .25. I have done a mod that I haven't seen others do yet and it's my favorite and its laser the mag to count down. I also did the wheel but not happy with the way we did our first test run so came up with another design with Kelly and will update when I get that one sorted. The other thing is the picatinny rail it is one of my favorites because it has curved edges and contours to the stock.
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I love the Lasor mag count,,
And its a learning curve to load the magazine, I got a Air Ventura 22 loading pen that helps me a lot, I was going to take some pictures but 1st I am going to try and sand down the tip of the loading pen see if I can get it in the magazine a little, Now I use the pen to load the JSB 18gr Pellet two at a time and use a plastic pen to get the pellets seated better, Loading with my fingers was a pain, The pellet pen will hold 20 pellets if you fill it up all the way,,
Mike
 
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For a true first PCP, I honestly think the Huben might be a bit daunting to many people . . . it really is a personal comfort thing, especially with the gun always being ready to fire. (it took me a while to fully trust it in that regard, but once I understood how it worked better I became fine with it). I certainly would not say that it shouldn't be a first PCP, but it definitely depends on the person's comfort level.

I too love the numbered mag slots - but honestly I wonder if they would be better "upside down" vs. how they are shown - we interface with the slots more on the other side of the gun. I guess it depends if we normally looks at them from the top or side . . .

A simple thing I did to the power wheel was to place black sharpie dot over the number one position, and once I have the gun dialed in to my main tune I reposition it so that the dot is centered in the stock. I can count how many clicks open the gun is from full closed and note that for future use, but this dot make a good visual "zero" of my set up, with an easy adjustment CW or CCW on that for power as needed (which is usually only a few clicks anyways).
 
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@AllanMcD Good point. As in introduction to PCPs it may be best to get a repeater since that's what I consider middle ground between a semi-auto PCP and a single shot like a Leshiy Classic or Airforce Airguns. A semi may spoil a person in the sense that they may not want to try repeaters or single shots.

@csvette3023 I have to keep in mind that I'd shot and owned a few different types of airguns prior to purchasing my first modern PCP, so my perspective is probably different than someone who has never owned an airgun or a PCP airgun. I think it's good to learn what a person is looking for from a PCP before advising them on what type of PCP to purchase as their first. Nonetheless, I am of the opinion that a Huben K1 is worth shooting at some point. Once you figure out that PCP airguns interest you and that you intend to shoot them for a while one may then seek to purchase one. A Huben can go for as low as $1200 used (not common to see). Even still that's a substantial investment in something that a person isn't even sure that they can get into. Maybe something more affordable with a longstanding reputation, plenty of support, and parts availability would be a better move for a first purchase.
 
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Huben was my 3rd pcp but I wish it was my first. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it as someone's first though, depends what they're looking for. If they want power, semi auto, and ergonomics, then yes I would. They can be very accurate but there are more accurate rifles it seems. Also can be projectile picky and require some knowledge to take apart, maintain etc. Some people don't care to work on them to the extent the huben can require. I've had jams that I just could not fix without taking the barrel assembly off.

BTW, you don't have to align the barrel unless it's had the red marked screws messed with, and I've never had a reason to mess with them
 
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Ezana4CE said:
@AllanMcD Good point. As in introduction to PCPs it may be best to get a repeater since that's what I consider middle ground between a semi-auto PCP and a single shot like a Leshiy Classic or Airforce Airguns. A semi may spoil a person in the sense that they may not want to try repeaters or single shots.

@csvette3023 I have to keep in mind that I'd shot and owned a few different types of airguns prior to purchasing my first modern PCP, so my perspective is probably different than someone who has never owned an airgun or a PCP airgun. I think it's good to learn what a person is looking for from a PCP before advising them on what type of PCP to purchase as their first. Nonetheless, I am of the opinion that a Huben K1 is worth shooting at some point. Once you figure out that PCP airguns interest you and that you intend to shoot them for a while one may then seek to purchase one. A Huben can go for as low as $1200 used (not common to see). Even still that's a substantial investment in something that a person isn't even sure that they can get into. Maybe something more affordable with a longstanding reputation, plenty of support, and parts availability would be a better move for a first purchase.
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Thx csvette3023 (Matt)
 
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Don’t buy parts from these price gougers (hubenairguns.shop)

Kelly(Krazcool airguns) has parts in stock and for REASONABLE prices. I just bought a bunch of parts from Kelly. I bought parts like the opening valve, closing valve, and some other parts that would be very difficult for me to make* with my skill set and tools.

Also, I bought a bunch of o-rings from the oringstore. I now have enough o-rings to reseal this huben for the next 50 years. If you don’t want to buy a bunch of o-rings at the very least buy some gauge o-rings which are most likely to go first.
1.5mm x 1mm ID
 
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I would only recommend the Huben for a first PCP if you’re OK with sending it out for repairs which will run $250+ with shipping. Resealing a huben for a newb is daunting compared to a marauder or other beginner friendly pcps. Also the magazine is not forgiving. Load it wrong and you can jam it up which will require you to take it apart. If you don’t pay attention to the pressure and go to low you can also jam up the mag. A lot of things that users of other pcps don’t really have to think about.

If you’re ok with throwing yourself to the wolves then go for it. I highly recommend buying from Kelly (Krazcool AG). He can tune it to shoot JSB pellets which will give you a good baseline. From there all you’ll have to do is adjust the power wheel for different projectiles
 
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AlanMcD said:
For a true first PCP, I honestly think the Huben might be a bit daunting to many people . . . it really is a personal comfort thing, especially with the gun always being ready to fire. (it took me a while to fully trust it in that regard, but once I understood how it worked better I became fine with it). I certainly would not say that it shouldn't be a first PCP, but it definitely depends on the person's comfort level.

I too love the numbered mag slots - but honestly I wonder if they would be better "upside down" vs. how they are shown - we interface with the slots more on the other side of the gun. I guess it depends if we normally looks at them from the top or side . . .

A simple thing I did to the power wheel was to place black sharpie dot over the number one position, and once I have the gun dialed in to my main tune I reposition it so that the dot is centered in the stock. I can count how many clicks open the gun is from full closed and note that for future use, but this dot make a good visual "zero" of my set up, with an easy adjustment CW or CCW on that for power as needed (which is usually only a few clicks anyways).
Click to expand...
The loading side is a little busy and being a righty it's easy to pop off and take a look and see how many shots are left. It's personal preference but this is the way it worked best for me.
 
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brawler1588 said:
The loading side is a little busy and being a righty it's easy to pop off and take a look and see how many shots are left. It's personal preference but this is the way it worked best for me.
Click to expand...
Face palm . . . I was not even thinking of counting shots until empty! I was thinking more about loading it up. Makes perfect sense now. I would love to get that done on mine. I'll have to look into it at some point.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
Today I counted the clicks of travel in my power/velocity wheel. I counted 75 clicks from top to bottom. Does anyone know if they are all useable or if some of the travel is in excess? Meaning will the wheel reach a point where it makes positive clicks with little to no resistance, but yields no change in velocity?
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Just like tuning other regulated pcps the clicks will eventually do nothing for said regulator pressure that's when you reach its max for that pressure when the clicks don't do anything.
 
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