That"s a great idea as I also run Nielson in .22 and would like more expansion, veardi veardi interesding!
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An experiment to get .22 cal NSA's to pop open easier. It works !!
- Thread starter Motorhead
- Start date
Groups? Your idea could be scaled on a 3d printer to a machine (press) that would improve consistency.First off not my idea, but taken from a few recent posts about low velocity slugs that mushroom easily. Thank you guys !!
So ... taking a #2 Phillips screw driver tip then dressing each blade web with a dremel tool cut-off wheel, we get each web a tad thinner / sharper.
* Took me 3 tries getting my grinding technique right & having control over equal thinning where it would contact the slugs hollow point making a uniform impression.
Placing a NSA slug on a piece of flat and thick leather, gave three TAP TAP TAP's on the end of driver tip with a small tac hammer so the hollow cavity of slug took on this look.
Once establishing how hard to strike was able to go threw a 375 count of NSA 20.2's in @ 45 minuets. Neurotic YES !!!
AS TO TESTING .... O' yes they now POP open where before was not that impressed
Shot from @ 20 yards into 1 gallon jug of water at @ 1040 fps a stock 20.2 HP passed right threw the jug exiting leaving a round hole ... had tried this prior with a few bottles in line to catch the slug. In the past recovered slug was only slightly opened at HP cavity and in no was mushrooming
MODIFIED with an X from tool described and shown, slug enters jug and does this !!! POP peeling away to the depth of the HP cavity in a near perfect clover leaf shape. Started as a .22 caliber and opened up to a .380" clover having no measurable weight loss still weighing 20.2 grains.
View attachment 133571View attachment 133579View attachment 133586
Needless to say I'm going to scale this idea down and do some .177 NSA's as well. Same tool and do some .25 and 30's too !!!
Scott S
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I wonder what it would do if a torks screw driver was used. Probably not need to grind the end like on the Philips.
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How about a 4-blade broadhead with the point machined to the OD and depth of the hollow-point. Pic is 85gr Slick Trick
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Do it & report back .... It is just that simple, shared "DOING" is just the primer to get others to do there spin on the idea ... GO FOR IT 
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I have these broad heads coming,
the 3 blades are for the Hades HP Pellets
and the 4 blades are for the Deep cavity HP slugs,
Along with a piece of Peek and slitting saw blades to cut slots for the perfect
cross cuts for the slug segments, either 3 or 4 segments etc.
Will cut the Peek to fit whatever pellet/slug design needed.
Then I can use the Thalson single stage press for the cutting the cross cuts needed.
www.shotgunworld.com
I can't get the need depth throw from my sizing press,
Just waiting for the items to get here.
the 3 blades are for the Hades HP Pellets
and the 4 blades are for the Deep cavity HP slugs,
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Along with a piece of Peek and slitting saw blades to cut slots for the perfect
cross cuts for the slug segments, either 3 or 4 segments etc.
Will cut the Peek to fit whatever pellet/slug design needed.
Then I can use the Thalson single stage press for the cutting the cross cuts needed.
Thalson Shotgun Shell Reloader
www.shotgunworld.com I can't get the need depth throw from my sizing press,
Just waiting for the items to get here.
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Qball
I plan on removing the wide cutting edges, and just use the tip for slicing/scoring the pellets/slugs.
I cut a piece of 1" dia Alum today, but did not get a PERFECT cross on the slots,
I'll use my tilting head and then I can dial in the number of turns to get the Perfect cross and the 3 slotted cuts will be 120* degrees apart.
I am hoping that by using the 3 bladed BH to cut deeper slots/grooves
between the Hates 3 HP parts, it should allow a better/wider opening,
as compared to the OEM openings.
On the slugs, I plan on making a close as possible internal shaped exact pattern, then after making the 3 or 4 slot cuts, the slugs could be reformed
the slotted nose back to OEM dimensions etc.
I am hoping that the Broadheads get here first, so I can order the slitting saw blades in the correct dimensions/thickness for the cutting points.
I measured some of my older BH and found dimensions run from .022" to .046" in blade thickness.
I have some small game BH, if I can find them, along with my Broadhead collection.
Tia,
Don
I plan on removing the wide cutting edges, and just use the tip for slicing/scoring the pellets/slugs.
I cut a piece of 1" dia Alum today, but did not get a PERFECT cross on the slots,
I'll use my tilting head and then I can dial in the number of turns to get the Perfect cross and the 3 slotted cuts will be 120* degrees apart.
I am hoping that by using the 3 bladed BH to cut deeper slots/grooves
between the Hates 3 HP parts, it should allow a better/wider opening,
as compared to the OEM openings.
On the slugs, I plan on making a close as possible internal shaped exact pattern, then after making the 3 or 4 slot cuts, the slugs could be reformed
the slotted nose back to OEM dimensions etc.
I am hoping that the Broadheads get here first, so I can order the slitting saw blades in the correct dimensions/thickness for the cutting points.
I measured some of my older BH and found dimensions run from .022" to .046" in blade thickness.
I have some small game BH, if I can find them, along with my Broadhead collection.
Tia,
Don
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Please, continue this thread —
and continue the development of viable methods (consistent and time-efficient).
PLEASE.
I think this is the next big thing in projectiles for me:
▪ Hollow points that expand at low velocities.
▪ And hollow points that have extreme expansion at high velocities.
THANK YOU!!
Matthias
and continue the development of viable methods (consistent and time-efficient).
PLEASE.
I think this is the next big thing in projectiles for me: ▪ Hollow points that expand at low velocities.
▪ And hollow points that have extreme expansion at high velocities.
THANK YOU!!
Matthias
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JS
I plan on updating the information etc,
the only downfall for me is posting photo's, I have a very hard time doing that.
Tia,
Don
I plan on updating the information etc,
the only downfall for me is posting photo's, I have a very hard time doing that.
Tia,
Don
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The torx headed bit idea sounds interesting.
What if you put a torx bit (of the required size for slug hollow point) in a drill press, spun it up to speed, then put a cutoff wheel in a dremel tool and held it at an angle
to the spinning torx bit in order to get the bit pointed like a screwdriver, as Scott has shown in his original experiment. Maybe that would make additional segmented cuts for expansion?
What if you put a torx bit (of the required size for slug hollow point) in a drill press, spun it up to speed, then put a cutoff wheel in a dremel tool and held it at an angle
to the spinning torx bit in order to get the bit pointed like a screwdriver, as Scott has shown in his original experiment. Maybe that would make additional segmented cuts for expansion?Upvote 0
My machine shop teacher used a file held at an angle to cut down a reamer bit spun in a mill to make a 9mm chamber finishing reamer when I was finishing up a 1911 barrel install.
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Combine the cut/segmented tips with silicone-filling of the cavities. That would give crazy expansion.
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Did some research on the slick trick in the previous pic. That particular broadhead won’t work because of the blade config..they don’t come to a point like I thought..so regardless of how small the ferrule was machined the 2 blades forming the X would be too wide.
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What about just the main tip, before the cutting blades?
Would this not produce the fracture lines needed from the very tip only?
What is the diameter of the ST main shaft be fore the cutting blades?
Still waiting on all the items to get here.
Tia.
Would this not produce the fracture lines needed from the very tip only?
What is the diameter of the ST main shaft be fore the cutting blades?
Still waiting on all the items to get here.
Tia.
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The ferrule near the trocar tip is .190 and the point itself does not have the edges on the point well enough defined to make the X cuts. In addition, the length of the point is so long that it contacts the bottom of the hollow point before it touches the edges.
I just got rid of some Muzzy broadheads that had a better trocar point and blade system. Dang Swedish Death Cleaning.
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ThanksThe ferrule near the trocar tip is .190 and the point itself does not have the edges on the point well enough defined to make the X cuts. In addition, the length of the point is so long that it contacts the bottom of the hollow point before it touches the edges.
I just got rid of some Muzzy broadheads that had a better trocar point and blade system. Dang Swedish Death Cleaning.
Any possible way to shorten the sharp point, grind to a round ball point,
so when the point just touches the bottom of the HP cavity,
the sharp edges cut into the sidewalls to the depth needed?
It is hard to tell what that point is cut too? Flat or curved for the very nose section?
A section of proper fitting rod and some wet/dry sand paper should put the needed sharp cutting edges on the curved sides of the point, flat sided could be sharpened on a whet stone.
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That was one of the primary attributes of the phillips tip ... it bottomed out perfectly just as the tips edges met the outer edge of slugs cavity hole.
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Would this help? Or would it require the entire casing, and not work with the bare slug?
The L'il Gizzy 22LR flat nose/hollowpoint tool - YouTube
The L'il Gizzy 22LR flat nose/hollowpoint tool - YouTube
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Just did a little experimenting with this wonderful idea. I started with 24.8 grain 0.219 NSA slugs. Shot them into duck seal - 832 fps @10 yards.
I thought the results were pretty good. The two on the left are stock and the three on the right got cross topped with a Phillips head bit. Just a tap tap tap as suggested. Of course it was only 10 yards but the accuracy was still pinpoint.
Hopefully the photo uploaded properly.
I thought the results were pretty good. The two on the left are stock and the three on the right got cross topped with a Phillips head bit. Just a tap tap tap as suggested. Of course it was only 10 yards but the accuracy was still pinpoint.
Hopefully the photo uploaded properly.
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