Diana And so it begins..The 333/65 rebuild. The conclusion...

[muddydogz]

Finally decided today to get the ball rolling on this win333/d65. The seals were pretty much non existent, but everything else looks perfect. I don't think this outfit was used much by the wear and tear. It came apart fairly easy. I just ordered seals for it though so now i;ll have to wait on them. Cleaning the old front seal out looks like it might be a pita but it'll get done. Took some pictures as i went so when i forget how something went in (and i will) i'll have the pics to fall back on. Can't wait to shoot it.

 

[marflow 777]

am wood dowel with a 1/4 slot cut in the middle for down the tube cleaning if you have a Dremel tool use it with brass brushes if it has a cable you can use a brass cup brush down the tube
it is clean and clean some more and when you think you are done do it one more time
the pistol seals are a SOB to put on and you maybe need to make a tool to slide the seal down and over the piston top
a clamp and socket can be handy and a use glue dot the hole the piece you use to side the seal down if you get it on the first try damn good luck but it could take several and you have 2 to do
i have been using Ultimox 226and remember that dowel, i put a clean new sponge in the slot and just lightly coat the inside of the tube
that dowel also works as your cleaning tool by putting clean lint free cloth in the slot
that is enough for now but some ideas that you can use or others reading the thread
there are many tricks from the tools you use to even the clamps
i will be following along

mike in Washington state

 

[muddydogz]

Thanks for the advise marflow, if it goes together half as easy as it came apart i'll be happy. That's usually the case though. The rear seal was just a pile of rubble and the front is still in there. Not looking forward to tackling that but i have plenty of time before the new seals get here. What do you use to lube the cogs and the rails? I'm assuming nothing to thick but the slicker the better.

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

I would use Ultimox 226 in the entire mechanism.

 

[marflow 777]

Chuck is right
even though 226 or Krytox 205 same thing different name is expensive it is a great lube
i set the gun all up and when i put the cap on for the last time just lube the gears and the gears will put the grease where is need so the pistons go in dry

 

[muddydogz]

I do have ultimox. I would normaly use a fine moly but it stinks and i have it on me for a week. So ultimox it is. thanks for the tips.

 

[marflow 777]

the spring need very little lube with the 3 spring set up they don't act as a one big spring and seeing that they are being compress from both ends and react differently and hell it is a low power rifle
but the spring is very long and you will have to make a guide for the reassembly and that is why the rear piston has a hole in it

 

[scottblair]

the spring need very little lube with the 3 spring set up they don't act as a one big spring and seeing that they are being compress from both ends and react differently and hell it is a low power rifle
but the spring is very long and you will have to make a guide for the reassembly and that is why the rear piston has a hole in it

Like marflow mentions, I use a 1/8" carbon rod, cut to length, to support the triple spring while removing and installing, so as not to kink it.
Also as mentioned, to press on the seals, I use an electrical red wire nut to push on (spread) the seal. The red wire nuts larger end, has the perfect OD to match the raised round capture portion of the piston, and tapers down in diameter to easily start the seal.
I use the right size socket to push the seal on, while the piston is held in a vise. Put the seals in hot water first to soften them a little, and a little silicone on the piston to facilitate slipping it on.
It takes longer to write this, than actually doing it.
here's a pic.....
HTH

 

[muddydogz]

You guys are just full of good ideas. I think i'm ready to roll as soon as the new seals arrive. Said they were getting shipped out today so we'll see what happens.

 

[marflow 777]

you see that the Giss System guns are not hard to work on BUT you have to have the tricks to make it so
without that wire nut or something like that you will not get the seals on the pistons, something that simple will frustrate you and stop your progress
there is enough of here that can help and that is what we are here for at least i am is to help
there is a point that when you have everything ready to be installed there are some tricks

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

I am following along and learning like everyone else, and am glad to see someone actually tackling the job and talking through it.

Kudos man!

 

[muddydogz]

Well, it's official. The cleaning of the front seal is a pita. But, with the help of soaking in alcohol wd40 and an arrow nock bent outward it is pretty much a done deal. Everything is cleaned and will get more cleaning before the seals go in. Supposed to be here thursday.

 

[marflow 777]

one thing the tubes in the pistons come out they are a part and they can be stuck in there fairly tight and you can leave them or remove them and clean what is under them if you haven't already or leave them your call
i have been tell people that the cleanup is some things the hardest part and it is now confirmed by you
so this is the old handle that i use on my Model 6 Diana's
and i like to use old Boxers because they are lint free

it makes a great cleaning swab

 

[Wadcutter]

A couple tools that will come in handy to keep the springs from binding during the reassembly.

 

[marflow 777]

and for those just reading allow that is the perfect setup and with you can get the gears in and the cap on and i will say the side caps can be finger tight at this point and with that the guts stays in place because you next chore is putting the rear cap back on and that is another process
and then with the rear cap on you can take the caps back off add your grease and do a finial install and what is left all the trigger parts and the stock a test and a few cold beverages LOL

 

[muddydogz]

Great pics marflow. My two center springs have a rod in them. Does your rod push on that through the rear piston? I do have a clamp like yours, looks like i'll be drilling some holes,lol.

 

[marflow 777]

that is Wadcutter's post and i would think not but it does control all the spring outside the tube
it is kind of a 4 handed job there are a lot of parts but if the tube is secured it helps
the pistols can be easier and done by yourself

 

[Wadcutter]

Make sure to inspect the cogs on the pistons and cam wheels very closely for damage or deformities. It looks like one of yours has a broken cog on the very end. Could be just a weird photo angle making it appear that way, but that is the spot they seem to break at when the seals crumble and the timing gets off. Major reason not to test fire one unless you know for a fact it has been resealed recently.

 

[specie]

Make sure to inspect the cogs on the pistons and cam wheels very closely for damage or deformities. It looks like one of yours has a broken cog on the very end. Could be just a weird photo angle making it appear that way, but that is the spot they seem to break at when the seals crumble and the timing gets off. Major reason not to test fire one unless you know for a fact it has been resealed recently.


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Can you please discuss what you mean by recent reseal?
My gun was resealed in 2019 by Umarex. Do I need to worry about redoing it, and do you think the replacement seals from 2019 would be of the later type?
Is there any way to suspect if the timing is off without taking the gun apart?

 

[scottblair]

The taper at the end of that pistons cog racks look normal to me.
If you just look closely and compare the two sides of each piston rack to each other under good light, you should be able to tell if there is any piece broken or damaged.
JMHO.