Another newbie with questions

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The nice thing about the 1377 is you can get o-rings for it from just about anywhere. Harbor fright to ace hardware carries them. Cheap 3 in 1 oil works for lubing the pivot points like the cocking lever and trigger parts. I would recommend avoiding pellgun oil, especially the pink stuff, for lubing the valve. It turns hard after awhile and gums up the works. Use the chamber oil you have for the valve. Barrel cleaning is a generally touchy subject since the opinion thing kicks in. Personally, unless it's brand spanking new or has visible crud built up in it, I don't bother with it. Unless the accuracy changes drastically, a quick pull through with ballistol or simple green will work. I only give mine a pull when I first get them, then shoot until the accuracy falls off.
The supercharger is different in care being a spring gun. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT put anything in the transfer port. It will wreck your seal at the least. Wiping out the barrel and wiping off the outside is fine. Just nothing down the transfer port. That's the hole the air flows through to push the pellet down the barrel.
You really don't need to stress too much about cleaning airguns as much as you do with firearms. Wiping them down after use is about it. You don't have any carbon collecting water and combining with the nitrates to corrode your metal.
As a p.s. your hatsan will probably sound a lot like a .22lr until the factory lube gets worked out of the chamber. Shouldn't be more than 10 or so shots.
 
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It's interesting to see that you happened to be the first to say that it isn't necessary to clean an air gun like a firearm. I just pulled the manual out of the box the Mod 25 came in a little while ago. I went straight to the Care, Cleaning, & Lubrication section. The first thing that grabbed my attention was the fact it says, "Protect your air rifle with rifle oil periodically". Now, I just need to know their definition of "rifle oil". To me, rifle oil is any of the oils made to lube and protect a firearm. Next, I read this, "It is recommended to oil your air rifle every 250 shots. It is recommended to clean the barrel with a cleaning rod every 500 shots." Other than that, there is no mention of any other cleaning/lubrication. That's going to really limit how oftern I clean one of these pistols. Unless I really get into this hobby and do a lot more shooting than I expect to, it'll take a good long while for me to rack up 500 shots. Considering I have two guns and will be shooting them equally and probably just one each time I want to plink, I'm sure it's going to take a long time to get to 500. The Crosman manual says something very similar. Both seem to imply that a thorough cleaning like you would do to a firearm after shooting 15 or 20 rounds through it is NOT necessary. So, they certainly agree with what you said.

I'm slowly getting there. Won't be long before I figure out what and when to clean and lube. I'm thinking of contacting the manufacturers of some of these cleaning/lubrication products I have and asking specifically if they are safe to use on air guns and if they might harm O-rings. Since all the products are specifically made to clean and lube conventional firearms, I'm betting that at least of a couple of them have already been questioned about use on air guns. I'll be sure to post if I hear back from any of them.
 
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Honestly, I wouldn't stress over the cleaning and just shoot them. Some airgun barrels are more accurate if you don't swab them out and some go the other way. Neither of the two guns you have are known for being picky about how often they are swabbed. Now if you were to leave them out in the rain, that's different.
The two cleaners I mentioned above are all you really need. Whatever you use on the exterior won't bother the o-rings.
Visit the support page of crosman and download the EVP for your 1377 and it will show where the o-rings are inside and what sizes they are. It will also give you the part numbers if you need to order replacements, although as I said, it would probably be cheaper to visit the local hardware store. Hatsan may have their EVPs listed on their website also, but not sure. For the record, springers don't normally have o-rings unless the piston was replaced with something aftermarket. They have a seal on the front of the piston that may need replaced if the gun diesels excessively or it was nicked during install. You will be able to tell by the power dropping over time.
One last bit of advice, don't use a metal cleaning rod down the barrel. There is a slight chance of damaging the rifling. Airgun barrels aren't treated to the same hardness as firearms.
 
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Puppadore, I'm hoping I really get into shooting these things. I really do miss punching paper and killing cans. Apparently I miss it more than I ever thought I would. LOL!

Well, I got responses from Crosman and also from the maker of Pro-Shot Zero Friction. I guess I can say I'm a little surprised at what they each had to say. First, here is what Crosman had to say.

"First, we do not recommend any cleaning solvents. It is not necessary to clean a pellet gun like you would a regular firearm. The reason being is there is no gun powder in the air guns. You do not want to use an oil that has Petroleum in it as this can damage the o rings and seal in the gun.

The 1377 is very easy to take care of. You would put a drop or two of Pellgunoil on the pivot points on the gun. If you check the owners manual, it will show you where to put those drops of oil in the gun. Depending on how often you shoot the gun would determine how often you would oil it. We recommend oiling the gun about every 250 shots or every 3 months. That is really all you need to do to maintain the gun.

Other than wiping down the outside of the gun and putting a little oil on a cloth and wiping down the gun every so often, there is nothing further needed.

In short, do not use any solvents. If you feel the barrel needs cleaning, you should run a dry patch or a patch with a drop of oil down the barrel. On the 1377 you would use Pellgun Oil, not any oils containing petroleum distillates. Just clean the outside of the gun every so often. That is it."


Then, I got this from Pro-Shot.

"The Zero Friction Lubricant is a synthetic petroleum and CANNOT be used on the O-rings or seals in an air gun. No petroleum or synthetic petroleum lubricants should be used on these parts. This will deteriorate the rings and seals. The Zero Friction can be used on the metal to metal parts and on a factory blued barrel for rust prevention."

Seems they both agree. It's beginning to get a little clearer for me. LOL!
 
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@smhardesty In a prior post I believe that you asked about quoting other members in repense to their previous posts. Take a look at the photo below.
DDA86053-4FB7-4B4A-8E69-BE7E7D7FE3E6.jpeg

By going to a specific post and selecting “Reply” (tap the word) it should start your post with that member’s quote above the field where you will type your response. It will appear in a box. You want to start typing outside of that box. Tap beneath that quote box if your cursor is in the box. If that doesn’t work, tap the “return” button on your keyboard/keypad and the cursor should drop down below the quote box. This is also good if you wish to place emphasis on areas of a quote (italicizing, underlining, or using bold font on specific words or phrases) in addition to truncating other people’s quotes.

Also when you want to address certain members type the “@“ symbol in front of their name. That way they will be notified when you mention them in your response. Otherwise if they are not following your thread they won’t know that you have responded to something they said unless they drop in to check out new posts on your thread. You’ll get used to these features the more that you post.
 
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OK. I see that now. I was looking for an option to select "Quote" in the menu bar. I sometimes try and quote 2 or 3 different guys if I get behind and need to respond to multiple posts. I can use the "Reply" to get around. If need be, I can always just copy and paste selected text and place it inside quote marks. It's just a little different than a lot of other forums I visit.

Thanks.
 
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@smhardesty No problem. You can quote one person, type a response to that quote then scroll to another person’s quote, tap “reply” and respond to that quote. In theory I think that you can do that as many times as you please. I haven’t seen many folks quote more than 3-4 people in a post, but it seems like you have an idea about how it works.
 
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smhardesty said:
OK. I'll try and take things in order. By the way, I don't seem to find a direct way to quote a previous post or parts of it. Am I just overlooking the obvious? Now, onward!

Badger, You read it right about the 58 pounds, but I have to say I'm kind of questioning that. I only cocked it once right after I opened the box today because I had similar thoughts when I saw the 58 pounds they list. I'm an old codger and I have some health issues. I grabbed the thing and it seemed to break and cock awfully easy, especially when it's supposed to require 58 pounds of breaking pressure. Maybe I've just gotten stronger in my old age. LOL!

As for how long this thing has been sitting around, it was given to me by someone who claimed he never uses it. That's all I know at this point. Which is one of the big reasons I'm asking so many questions about cleaners and lubes. I figure if this thing has sat for 5 years or more, things internally might be a bit dry. I don't want to go shooting it only to find out it was in desperate need of lubrication. It's also the reason I asked about buying any parts/pieces to "rebuild" or refurb the thing. I might just go ahead and order in one of the Seal Kits listed in the original parts diagrams. It's nothing but seals and an )-ring, so shouldn't break the bank. Then, if I find it is needed, I already have it.

You also brought up a point about lubrication. I went and read through the owners manual. Under the "Maintenance" section it states, "Pellgunoil is best, but any light household oil is better than none". It says to put a couple of drops of Pellgunoil on the pump pivot pins, the trigger, the cocking mechanism, and the pump cup in the pump mechanism, and also states, "A little oil on the barrel helps prevent rust". I'm going to spend a little time later this evening reading the manual for the Hatsan. I haven't even cracked that manual open yet. It may very well state specific oil to be used on it.

So, from that and from a compilation of everything I've read on here and been told by you guys, it seems that using a pure synthetic CLP type product should satisfy the gun's needs. I'm still concerned with that O-ring. I have no idea if synthetic CLP would affect that O-ring. More reading and more suggestions, I guess. LOL!

WOW, BeMeUp. 30 pumps? I'm not at all doubting that, but I have a question. If the gun shoots .177 cal pellets at 600 fps using the stock 10 pumps, how fast will it shoot that same pellet at 30 pumps? That is for sure something I'll want some more info on. I definitely want to check out all the parts you offered. Who knows how far I'll end up going with this thing? And, as mentioned, if I totally screw it up I can always buy a new one for well under a hundred bucks. That's if I really like shooting the 1377. Only time will tell me that. I did notice during my casual once over of the gun that it appears a few roll pins and a half dozen screws will, in fact, disassemble the thing. I'm not going to tear into it right away. I'm going to want to shoot it a few times to see how well it is holding pressure. Heck, it might not even shoot a pellet. I might be looking at rebuilding before I get to use it. I'll let you know how that goes.
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Well I tried chrono graphing it got some really crazy as in all over the place readings, it was pretty warm out and all the pumping really messed with the pressure, I gotta try again but I was only getting an extra 20 fps at 10 pumps compared to 5 pumps ,after fifteen pumps is when it was chronoing all over, I have the fx chrono so I’ll try a differant setup it has two for pistols but I only had time to mess with one
 
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BeMeUp said:
Well I tried chrono graphing it got some really crazy as in all over the place readings, it was pretty warm out and all the pumping really messed with the pressure, I gotta try again but I was only getting an extra 20 fps at 10 pumps compared to 5 pumps ,after fifteen pumps is when it was chronoing all over, I have the fx chrono so I’ll try a differant setup it has two for pistols but I only had time to mess with one
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FWIW I was thinking about the # of pumps question from earlier in the thread and did some testing today with my 1377 today.

A few takeaways from it:
1. I noticed a significant diminishing return in velocity increase after 7 pumps.
2. Accuracy seemed to stabilize at a peak at also around 6-7 pumps.

My conclusion is for 1377 seven pumps is optimal.

View attachment Crosman 1377 study.pdf
 
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All this talk about cronographing has my undivided attention. I really like the study chart, badger. For my use, at least initially, I agree that 7 or 8 pumps should suffice.

BeMeUp, I really want to know what you end up with once you get the chrono figured out. I realize I'm just about the newest newbie on here, but I really have to wonder what those extra 20 pumps are doing to the gun, the velocity, and the accuracy. I'm not prepared to make a purchase tomorrow, but I'm not ruling that out down the road once you get some solid results to work with. Yep, keep me informed!
 
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