FX Any advice on replacing the A18 O-Ring on the FX Maverick?

You can use a long needle to just pierce it and get it started out of the groove and then fish a pick in behind it to get it pulled out. Make sure to not poke clear through it and scratch the housing. Should come out pretty easily
Agreed, That is the worst one of the batch. A needle is the only way. I also have brass picks and reverse tweezers, they clamp when you release them. Good old Amazon.
 
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I've been digging deeper into the FX Mavericks o-rings and I've found that there are serious errors in both the online schematic AND the schematic they send with o-ring orders. Note: at the time of this writing this may have changed.

The schematic sent has different hardness's i.e. NBR90 instead of NBR70, this makes sense except one is several mm thicker than possible in it's location. The on-line schematic has the old durometer numbers but the right sizes. Numbers below correspond to the online schematic.

13) 10.0 x 1.5 NBR90 inside Regulator hole at bottom of threads use a needle to get this little sucker out
18) 7.5 x 2 NBR70 Regulator Body
20) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 End of Piston
23) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 Inside Regulator Body, push it all the way in then use a dowel to push it back up and seat it
25) 2.0 x 1.0 NBR90 (2x) Adjustment Screw, suggestion heat in boiling water slip on first one, then second one, or if you have a witches hat it’s easier. And no, heating them doesn't mess them up, they return to shape. I also use the reverse tweezers to stretch them out just a bit, roll on with your finger nails, patience is the key. These little suckers break very easily so.....

Save the pain, buy in bulk from The 0-ring Store a AGN sponsor and they have great taffy too.

I lube ALL 0-rings with light Mobil 1, just a light coat, makes them last a heck of a lot longer, especially if there is movement involved. M1 will not explode in the gun.
 
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You can use a long needle to jut pierce it and get it started out of the groove and then fish a pick in behind it to get it pulled out. Make sure to not poke clear through it and scratch the housing. Should come out pretty easily.
Thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the needle to bite long enough to get leverage on the o-ring unseat it from it’s position. Looks like I’ve got a new project for the weekend!
 
Agreed, That is the worst one of the batch. A needle is the only way. I also have brass picks and reverse tweezers, they clamp when you release them. Good old Amazon.
I’ll have to find some decent picks. The ones I have (or had) were great but wouldn’t fit in that opening - ended up breaking them and now they’re nothing more than some short chopsticks
 
I've been digging deeper into the FX Mavericks o-rings and I've found that there are serious errors in both the online schematic AND the schematic they send with o-ring orders. Note: at the time of this writing this may have changed.

The schematic sent has different hardness's i.e. NBR90 instead of NBR70, this makes sense except one is several mm thicker than possible in it's location. The on-line schematic has the old durometer numbers but the right sizes. Numbers below correspond to the online schematic.

13) 10.0 x 1.5 NBR90 inside Regulator hole at bottom of threads use a needle to get this little sucker out
18) 7.5 x 2 NBR70 Regulator Body
20) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 End of Piston
23) 4.0 x 1.5 NBR90 Inside Regulator Body, push it all the way in then use a dowel to push it back up and seat it
25) 2.0 x 1.0 NBR90 (2x) Adjustment Screw, suggestion heat in boiling water slip on first one, then second one, or if you have a witches hat it’s easier. And no, heating them doesn't mess them up, they return to shape. I also use the reverse tweezers to stretch them out just a bit, roll on with your finger nails, patience is the key. These little suckers break very easily so.....

Save the pain, buy in bulk from The 0-ring Store a AGN sponsor and they have great taffy too.

I lube ALL 0-rings with light Mobil 1, just a light coat, makes them last a heck of a lot longer, especially if there is movement involved. M1 will not explode in the gun.
I took it apart to check everything I could. I found a few o-rings that seemed dry and discovered differences in the reg’s - the first had the upgraded brass piston, but the second still had the black plastic piston one. I ended up getting a full reseal kit from Huma-Air, and a few other things, so I could get everything in tune with one another.

Now that I’m learning more, I’ll be sure to buy extras to have on hand.
 
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I’ll have to find some decent picks. The ones I have (or had) were great but wouldn’t fit in that opening - ended up breaking them and now they’re nothing more than some short chopsticks
Brass picks, 0-ring, Amazon. A nice small dental pick will work down for that ^&%$#@ one that is buried but caution must be used.
 
I just replaced the whole bottle valve adapter with a new one lol. I needed a new regulator anyway but those reg housing orings are the worst.
I got replacement reg’s from Huma, made that switch much easier. My tank doesn’t have a valve (it’s hooked into the bottle adapter). I was thinking about getting another one of those to have a second tank, but I’m likely going to get a buddy tank at some point.
 
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I plan to give another go with the needle tonight. If that fails, I’ve already got a set of brass picks ordered on Amazon (gotta love 1-day shipping)
Normally I can knock off a reg in under 30 min, my friends took me close to 2 hrs because of that Y&^%$#@$%^&Y^%$ 0-ring down there. Hard to see, if they are old they are flush with the bore and hard.
 
Normally I can knock off a reg in under 30 min, my friends took me close to 2 hrs because of that Y&^%$#@$%^&Y^%$ 0-ring down there. Hard to see, if they are old they are flush with the bore and hard.
Considering it’s my first PCP, I’m actually surprised at how easy and straightforward everything has been, besides the 🤬 o-ring. Frankly, I’m more worried about tuning once I’m done with this maintenance.
 
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After reading your post, I think it may be better for me to start with something more beginner-friendly. I’m new to PCP too, so I think I'll avoid FX for now since it has too many o-rings to deal with.
Honestly, I wouldn’t rule it out. I intentionally bought a used gun so I could learn the mechanics. I considered others PCPs first, but after shooting a few different FX models, I can say they felt different (in a better way). Aside from this one o-ring, it’s actually quite easy to work on. I opted for the FX Maverick as it’s not as intensive as the M3 (at least that was my perspective).

I found lots of resources on the forums and several tutorials at YouTube University. I did a full disassembly and reassembly first, and it still shot great. I then started the reseal / upgrade and have only run into this one issue (namely I don’t have the right pick). So far, I installed a new probe, transfer port, CF barrel liner, 2 new reg’s, new 28mm gauges.

If you buy a new one, I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work as expected out of the box.
 
After reading your post, I think it may be better for me to start with something more beginner-friendly. I’m new to PCP too, so I think I'll avoid FX for now since it has too many o-rings to deal with.
All airguns have their quirks, because FX sells a heck of a lot of guns more issues come to the surface. Mavericks aren't too bad to work on. Now that I've got the regulator issues sorted out they've been rock solid. Tuning is 'easy', once you know the keys and a certain amount of luck.
 
All airguns have their quirks, because FX sells a heck of a lot of guns more issues come to the surface. Mavericks aren't too bad to work on. Now that I've got the regulator issues sorted out they've been rock solid. Tuning is 'easy', once you know the keys and a certain amount of luck.
Any advice on finding the “keys” to tuning? I was hoping to set reg’s and then adjust power wheel to dial-up down between 26 gr pellets / hybrid slugs and 34 gr pellets…
 
Any advice on finding the “keys” to tuning? I was hoping to set reg’s and then adjust power wheel to dial-up down between 26 gr pellets / hybrid slugs and 34 gr pellets…
What is your barrel length? In my experience you can kind of tune for two different weights but its not the best. If you dont mind keeping your heavier 34g at normal pellets speeds like ~880fps and your lighter 26g at "too fast" like 980fps you might be ok. You end up getting some erratic ES if you try to use the power wheel to tune down too far, but within reason it can work out well. So I would tune for the 34g and get those dialed in and then leave the regs/IHS alone and play with the power wheel only. You will probably need to pick one or the other for optimal accuracy. Pellets dont usually like to be pushed too fast and do some really strange things in flight.
 
What is your barrel length? In my experience you can kind of tune for two different weights but it’s not the best. If you dont mind keeping your heavier 34g at normal pellets speeds like ~880fps and your lighter 26g at "too fast" like 980fps you might be ok. You end up getting some erratic ES if you try to use the power wheel to tune down too far, but within reason it can work out well. So I would tune for the 34g and get those dialed in and then leave the regs/IHS alone and play with the power wheel only. You will probably need to pick one or the other for optimal accuracy. Pellets dont usually like to be pushed too fast and do some really strange things in flight.
Barrel length is 700. I know there are different target ranges for reg’s and PW / HS for different ones and wasn’t sure if there was a way to find some balance between the two. Figured it was worth a shot. I know the settings it was at, 150 / 120 (not sure about the PW though), it was shooting the 34g pellets pretty damn well at 50-75 yards.