Huben Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

The reason I asked if the length is the same is that they appear to want to vent that portion of the valve where the stem slides in, maybe keeping the large portion of the stem from sealing against the bottom of closing valve. Since this was done with a grooved washer in yours and a star washer in mine. Now that they have put the grooves into the closing valve itself, the venting washer may not be needed and they may have added a little bit of length to account for the (now unneeded) washer. This would decrease power if a washer was used with a longer closing valve.

This is just a guess at what I’m looking at with yours.

Dave

That would be rather ideal if it were the case, however strange they wouldn't have a note with the new part stating to omit the washer.

Wonder if the height of the flange has changed, or can even change without design changes. If I make a flanged poppet, I certainly want the height to be able to absorb impacts for the life of the gun without integrity degradation presented, even in the event of unforeseeable circumstances.

I still don't fully understand their approach there if it requires to breathe/leak under the closing valve seat to operate. Why not grooves in the steel stem/seat? I'd rather have the above pictured grooves present in the metal that the plastic valve sits on, not the plastic that is seated on metal with reasonable force.

-Matt
 
The power is back! ❤️
I removed the washer and it works now.
It's making 89 ft lbs with 51 grain slugs. Thank you so much! Dave, you're a genius!
Without looking back through all the posts, it seems someone mentioned the washer not being in the diagram. I may be wrong about that though. It would be nice if there were a way to confirm whether or not there are different styles of closing valves and what the washer requirements are.

Again, I’m not claiming it is correct now. I would do a tear down after a number of shot for an inspection.

Dave
 
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Without looking back through all the posts, it seems someone mentioned the washer not being in the diagram. I may be wrong about that though. It would be nice if there were a way to confirm whether or not there are different styles of closing valves and what the washer requirements are.

Again, I’m not claiming it is correct now. I would do a tear down after a number of shot for an inspection.

Dave
My 0.22 GK1 diagram shows no washer in the parts breakdown. Haven't taken mine apart to check.
 
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Without looking back through all the posts, it seems someone mentioned the washer not being in the diagram. I may be wrong about that though. It would be nice if there were a way to confirm whether or not there are different styles of closing valves and what the washer requirements are.

Again, I’m not claiming it is correct now. I would do a tear down after a number of shot for an inspection.

Dave
I'm in contact with the Huben shop in Spain. I will ask about any changes.
 
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That would be rather ideal if it were the case, however strange they wouldn't have a note with the new part stating to omit the washer.

Wonder if the height of the flange has changed, or can even change without design changes. If I make a flanged poppet, I certainly want the height to be able to absorb impacts for the life of the gun without integrity degradation presented, even in the event of unforeseeable circumstances.

I still don't fully understand their approach there if it requires to breathe/leak under the closing valve seat to operate. Why not grooves in the steel stem/seat? I'd rather have the above pictured grooves present in the metal that the plastic valve sits on, not the plastic that is seated on metal with reasonable force.

-Matt
I’m not sure why that would need to be vented. While closing, plenum pressure drops on the stem and it can be forced closed by the spring. There is also the pressure inside the valve forcing it off the stem (to a degree I suppose, it’s not an oring seal, just a very close fit) due to the differential created by drop in plenum pressure. The vent there would only keep the stem from sticking to the closing valve when the stem reset (due to increase in plenum pressure) and the closing valve was still closed for opening chamber refill.

All just kinda theory in my old brain, lol.

Dave
 
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I’m not sure why that would need to be vented. While closing, plenum pressure drops on the stem and it can be forced closed by the spring. There is also the pressure inside the valve forcing it off the stem (to a degree I suppose, it’s not an oring seal, just a very close fit) due to the differential created by drop in plenum pressure. The vent there would only keep the stem from sticking to the closing valve when the stem reset (due to increase in plenum pressure) and the closing valve was still closed for opening chamber refill.

All just kinda theory in my old brain, lol.

Dave

I still don't quite understand the reasoning and variations in design with washers/groove placement.

-Matt
 
OK no one has talked about the BIG problem with the HUBEN pistol, And its big money!!
If you buy a GKI 177 you will want a GKI 22 after the wow factor You will have to buy a GKI 25 caliber,
If that's not a problem I do not know what one is,,
Mike
Have a 0.22, still in the honeymoon stage. They are fun, no doubt about it! I strained my budget to get it, have no regrets. You're right, they are big money, at least for me. Not to mention adding accessories like folding stocks, and gobs of ammo!
 
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My question is, if the groove present in reply #296 is necessary to function, it only makes sense its necessity to 'leak' would be while its sitting against the stem, therefore, ergo, if anything should leak or be grooved, it should be on part #21 where #20 seats, not #20 where it seats on #21.

If anyone has a deeper understanding of the reasoning for a washer in between the two surfaces and grooves places on the plastic piece #20, do explain.

Also whats confusing (to me), is the force applied between #20 and #21, is there any way to calculate it? If its a lot, well a beefier flange would go a long way, if its not a lot, then I see no need for the piece being made from plastic.

-Matt
 
I have all 3 and BOOM love them all! See if I can get down to 5 Airguns. Have acquired 2 feral cats that eating what hits the ground.
OK MIKE
You got to tell us the Huben crowd of the three calibers which one is the most favorite, I have had my 22 for a few months , I will call it pellet picky you put a loose one in and its going to jam, Just got my 25 in today, It's a dream to load them big ole 25s drop right in, As cool and neat as these pistols are I am sure a 177 will land in my hands soon, Even if I struggle with the little 177 pellets loading them ,
Mike
 
Hmm, the Norma pellets 17.9gr seem to fit fine in my GK1 0.22. I didn't notice them being loose at all. My NOE cast slugs (pure lead) fit snuggly, and shoot great.

Wonder why there's such a wide variation. Is it just the magazine fit, or both the mag and barrel? Any one with the problem measure them carefully or bring them to a machinist or gunsmith for measurements? Cerro cast? Or inside micrometer? Calipers are not accurate enough for this work.