How did you tune the TX Mustafamalikza if you don't me asking?
One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube.
What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox?
One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube.
What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox?
The Krytox I purchased is mixed with molybdenum...I don’t see how it would not mix well. Besides as I said, I didn’t actually mix the two together. They were applied separately. I clarified something in my latest forum post. My thought behind the application of the Krytox was that Krytox is a little thicker as a grease. The v-mach grease I have is very smooth (like soft serve ice cream). I thought using a thicker grease (like Krytox) near the parts that seemed loose like the spring guide rod would make for a more smoother action and shooting cycle. This is just a basic idea of what I thought. I could go into more detail, but it’s redundant. Just do it...if the results are unsatisfactory, then lament the frustrations.
One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube.
What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox?
The Krytox I purchased is mixed with molybdenum...I don’t see how it would not mix well. Besides as I said, I didn’t actually mix the two together. They were applied separately. I clarified something in my latest forum post. My thought behind the application of the Krytox was that Krytox is a little thicker as a grease. The v-mach grease I have is very smooth (like soft serve ice cream). I thought using a thicker grease (like Krytox) near the parts that seemed loose like the spring guide rod would make for a more smoother action and shooting cycle. This is just a basic idea of what I thought. I could go into more detail, but it’s redundant. Just do it...if the results are unsatisfactory, then lament the frustrations.
Just curious, I've been there and done that. What I found was you can put the grease wherever you want it, and it's just going to go everywhere anyway. It's not going to stay where you put it. It migrates everywhere.
And the krytox that contains moly, is fortified with moly powder, the solids, and not moly grease. Moly grease is moly powder suspended in thick oil, and the oil is what doesn't mix and burns off as dieseling.
Unsubscribe from what? My Hulu subscription? Netflix? Disney plus?
A break barrel as consistent as yours is in my collection.
What break barrel do you want to compare with my break barrels that are as consistent or more consistent than your planted targets?
I never bought a TX and never will. It is only because HW makes break barrels better. Say the HW98? Say the HW80? Say the HW50's I have drilled to .20 caliber each from AOA recently; I bought the first and the last of THOSE.
But I understand your enthusiasm with your mooohahahaha kick.
Try a D54 Recoiless in .20 tuned and the whole break barrel thing is gone to a decent sidelever capable of more accuracy and performance than a TX.
I am trying to get your moohahahaha statement revised with the excellent HW98 to improve your own experiences beyond the simple TX200 and any others like it. German or English or Turkey or China or any other manufacturer trying to make air rifles do what an HW98 does everytime anyplace anywhere.
Kindly said while I watch your smug outlook on a TX200 v HW98.
Try the HW98 AGAINST your TX and then you'll get rid of it.
John
Unsubscribe from what? My Hulu subscription? Netflix? Disney plus?
I know, weird right? Like, this isn't your spam folder sir. lol
A break barrel as consistent as yours is in my collection.
What break barrel do you want to compare with my break barrels that are as consistent or more consistent than your planted targets?
I never bought a TX and never will. It is only because HW makes break barrels better. Say the HW98? Say the HW80? Say the HW50's I have drilled to .20 caliber each from AOA recently; I bought the first and the last of THOSE.
But I understand your enthusiasm with your mooohahahaha kick.
Try a D54 Recoiless in .20 tuned and the whole break barrel thing is gone to a decent sidelever capable of more accuracy and performance than a TX.
I am trying to get your moohahahaha statement revised with the excellent HW98 to improve your own experiences beyond the simple TX200 and any others like it. German or English or Turkey or China or any other manufacturer trying to make air rifles do what an HW98 does everytime anyplace anywhere.
Kindly said while I watch your smug outlook on a TX200 v HW98.
Try the HW98 AGAINST your TX and then you'll get rid of it.
John
The HW98 is undoubtedly a great rifle and I hope I have the pleasure to own one someday soon. I’d say that the Pro Sport and HW98 are competitors to each other. Although, I must say that the shooter also plays a big part with a springer. So, at best, the only scientific way to prove that an tuned HW98 is better is by quantitative data (i.e. chrony numbers). But yeah, as you pointed out, the barrel also plays a huge role.