I am definitely motivated to try the mirror method. It will be interesting to see how close the plumb line and level scope installs on my guns actually are when tested in the mirror. I might be too embarrassed to report back.....
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I am definitely motivated to try the mirror method. It will be interesting to see how close the plumb line and level scope installs on my guns actually are when tested in the mirror. I might be too embarrassed to report back.....
Perhaps me too. I had originally bought it to use with my scale model building but I've used it mostly on scope mounting.I had to check that I was in the right forum - I've used something like this for checking the pitch(angle) on roofs for years.
For what it's worth, the mirror method compensates for that scenario as well. The scope needn't be centered above the receiver and barrel. For example, the scope could be mounted an inch off to the side. By looking through the scope and rotating the scope body until the reticle is aligned to the bore (veritcal bar of the reticle simultaneously bisects the bore and the objective bell), the scope is mounted correctly and you've eliminated scope cant. When shooting, you'd then hold the gun with the reticle level (i.e. matches a plumb line)...to a bystander it would appear you're tilting the gun but it's in fact level in terms of the relationship between the scope and the barrel. Holding it that way eliminates gun cant. Net result = zero cant error.I was considering the issue as though there was a chance of left/right offset from center of reticle to mounts.
Yes sir, you got it!I see now you simply mean that you're doing this to ensure the relationship between the scope and barrel is in the appropriate 90 degree orientation to level, and match one another in that regard.
Well I'm glad you posted this for the bazillion and one time lol. You explained it very well for others including myself to understand. I'll have to admit, I've been doing it the lazy way by using the wedges because I'm always in a rush to sight in a new gun lol. Just one question on this part?ive cut and pasted this a bazillion times it seems,
but what the hell lol
best method ive found for properly mounting a scope is the mirror method,
it perfectly aligns the crosshairs with the bore.
now im not talking about using a mirror to optically center a scopes turrets in their adjustments,
this is just to align your scope to the bore,
to eliminate shots drifting to one side as you go further out (considering windless conditions)
get a mirror,
set it up at half the distance of the closest parallax adjustment on your scope.
look through the scope at your reflection in the mirror (a steady gun rest helps)
loosen your ring screws and rotate the scope till the vertical crosshair intersects the center of the bore and the center of the scope objective at the same time.
tighten your rings in small amounts and keep checking that the scope didnt come out of alignment
"bam" your crosshairs are now aligned with the bore
THEN.... you can use a plumb line to level the crosshairs for setting your scope level.
(bright colored cord with a weight on the end hanging from a branch works for me)
(again a steady gun rest helps greatly)
adjust the gun till the crosshairs follow the plumb line,
then adjust your scope mounted level to read level and lock it down.
thats all there is to it,works every time,
and no pricey extra tools needed.
nobody has to try it if they dont want to,
but if you try it,
i can pretty much guarantee youll never setup a scope any other way ever again
carry on lol
So if the scope's minimum parallax setting is 10 yards, would it still be able to focus sharply on the reflection at 5 yards? Just wondering if it's some voodoo or just plain physics.You will be viewing your reflection in a mirror so if the scope has a minimum parallax of 10 yards, you'll want to be standing about 5 yards from the mirror so your reflection is in sharp focus.
Well I'm glad you posted this for the bazillion and one time lol. You explained it very well for others including myself to understand. I'll have to admit, I've been doing it the lazy way by using the wedges because I'm always in a rush to sight in a new gun lol. Just one question on this part?
"get a mirror,
set it up at half the distance of the closest parallax adjustment on your scope."
Would you or anyone else care to expound on this?
So if the scope's minimum parallax setting is 10 yards, would it still be able to focus sharply on the reflection at 5 yards? Just wondering if it's some voodoo or just plain physics.