Anything better than duct seal for silent trap?
- Thread starter CrazyDave
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Hi guys, thanks for the thoughts.
The ballistic rubber panels require at least 20 FPE to not bounce back. I'm running 12 FPE.
Ballistic Rubber Panels
These rubber mud flaps are cheap. I might call the company to see what they think.
Custom Mud Flaps
I don't think the rubber mulch would work for my application which is not really enclosed. But glad it is working for some of you. I tried it years ago but preferred the duct seal.
The ballistic rubber panels require at least 20 FPE to not bounce back. I'm running 12 FPE.
Ballistic Rubber Panels
These rubber mud flaps are cheap. I might call the company to see what they think.
Custom Mud Flaps
I don't think the rubber mulch would work for my application which is not really enclosed. But glad it is working for some of you. I tried it years ago but preferred the duct seal.
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Is this what you are using now? What is the dimensions of the back wall on each box? If you have a local scrap yard is it possible you can get some 1" steel plate? mount it the same angle as the white target backing... 60degrees? it being so heavy I don't think it will make much noise. I have a 1 inch thick by 6 by 12 I shoot at sometimes with the 22 and it barely make much noise. But I guess that is subjective as what is considered noisy
Allen
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Hi Guys,
Here's the current dimensions.
This is what I'm thinking:
A metal trap that's 26x26 lined with 2 layers of duct seal. If I did the math correct I would need 135 plugs / pounds of duct seal. I'm remedial in math so I could be off. Duct seal went up in price since I bought it last. I think it doubled. Home Depot has it for about $17 for only 5 pounds.
I am open to the rubber mulch but how would you keep in place over such a large surface? The benefits would be light weight, cost, and I could have a removable tray built in the bottom to easily remove the pellets.
Thoughts? I want to get it right the first time.
The steel plate is a good idea. But, I fear trying to get it down my hill.
Thanks,
Dave
Here's the current dimensions.
This is what I'm thinking:
A metal trap that's 26x26 lined with 2 layers of duct seal. If I did the math correct I would need 135 plugs / pounds of duct seal. I'm remedial in math so I could be off. Duct seal went up in price since I bought it last. I think it doubled. Home Depot has it for about $17 for only 5 pounds.
I am open to the rubber mulch but how would you keep in place over such a large surface? The benefits would be light weight, cost, and I could have a removable tray built in the bottom to easily remove the pellets.
Thoughts? I want to get it right the first time.
The steel plate is a good idea. But, I fear trying to get it down my hill.
Thanks,
Dave
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If you are seriously considering the steel plate, I would not worry that much about damaging it while getting it down the hill unless there is a chance you may lose it in the water or rocks. I don't think it is going to bend too easily.
Allen
Allen
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I was surprised so many suggesting mulch. No way to install it in your awesome trap.
I guess you could glue it in. Then it will never come out.
I do use the the ballistic panel in my apartment, as the face of my 9mm metal bullet box, also lined inside with that putty.
You are right, without enough power the pellet does bounce straight back 20 feet and hit me.
If sound is the only concern a panel (1/2"') would be easier to work with, although they are pricy. Wheel flaps, 2 layers thick may be good alternative
I guess you could glue it in. Then it will never come out.
I do use the the ballistic panel in my apartment, as the face of my 9mm metal bullet box, also lined inside with that putty.
You are right, without enough power the pellet does bounce straight back 20 feet and hit me.
If sound is the only concern a panel (1/2"') would be easier to work with, although they are pricy. Wheel flaps, 2 layers thick may be good alternative
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Hey, thanks guys.
The amount of duct seal required has made me want to try to get my current set up less noisy.
A lead plate might be better than a steel plate. I read on another forum about a guy who melted down lead into a 1cm thick plate and he used that as a backstop. He said it's silent and you can scrape off the pellets that hit it.
I'm curious about what kind of velocity you are shooting and how powerful is the pellet that hits you. Does it hurt? Dangerous? I'm thinking the rubber sound proofing for the sides and bottom of the trap.
The amount of duct seal required has made me want to try to get my current set up less noisy.
A lead plate might be better than a steel plate. I read on another forum about a guy who melted down lead into a 1cm thick plate and he used that as a backstop. He said it's silent and you can scrape off the pellets that hit it.
I'm curious about what kind of velocity you are shooting and how powerful is the pellet that hits you. Does it hurt? Dangerous? I'm thinking the rubber sound proofing for the sides and bottom of the trap.
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When using a plate you are not having it vertical but tilted down at a 45 degree downward angle so the pellet would bounce downwards,.The pellet will lose so much energy it should just drop down or disintegrate into small pieces. But metal plates that thick can be expensive.
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I used mud flaps in a previous target box (prior house, need to build a new target box). I used 2 truck (not semi-truck size) mud flaps from the auto parts store or Walmart, and cut each into vertical strips maybe an inch or so wide, leaving a few inches uncut at the top, so it all holds together. Offset the front flap from the rear flap so the cuts aren't lined up. I had duct seal behind that, but I'd use mulch next time. The rubber strips hanging down are much more forgiving to pellets of all energy levels, slowing them down dramatically yet still letting them pass, or at least drop down. I think I got the idea from the old yellow forum.
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I have this 1 inch thick rubber panel..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC2ZMW1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3YBF5XXDKPDGY30DZ3J6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't have the guns I had tested. But i had asked this forum, what is minimum power for penetrating...
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/ballistic-rubber-panel-what-fpe/?referrer=1
I jump with surprise, but it is a very minor sting. Maybe like flicking with your finger.
The forum felt under 20 fpe would bounce. My faulty memory would say 400-700 fps using 22 and 25 caliber was the danger zone for my sliding glass door and myself
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC2ZMW1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3YBF5XXDKPDGY30DZ3J6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't have the guns I had tested. But i had asked this forum, what is minimum power for penetrating...
https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/ballistic-rubber-panel-what-fpe/?referrer=1
I jump with surprise, but it is a very minor sting. Maybe like flicking with your finger.
The forum felt under 20 fpe would bounce. My faulty memory would say 400-700 fps using 22 and 25 caliber was the danger zone for my sliding glass door and myself
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Great ideas. Thanks again for all the info.
One other idea that I came across on a forum in England was to sandwich a piece of carpet or rubber between 2 steel plates. The guy said it was very quiet and he had over 10,000 posts...
The backs stop is angled and that does add an extra layer of noise because the pellet hits the backstop and then hits the bottom of the trap after being deflected. I put a strip of duct seal in the bottom to take care of the secondary noise.
Well, I have some ideas. I'll contact the machine shop and see that they can do for me.
One other idea that I came across on a forum in England was to sandwich a piece of carpet or rubber between 2 steel plates. The guy said it was very quiet and he had over 10,000 posts...
The backs stop is angled and that does add an extra layer of noise because the pellet hits the backstop and then hits the bottom of the trap after being deflected. I put a strip of duct seal in the bottom to take care of the secondary noise.
Well, I have some ideas. I'll contact the machine shop and see that they can do for me.
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Dave, you need to think outside of the box, literally. Glue the rubber mud flaps to all sides of the outside of those traps with clear silicone construction adhesive. The two densities of rubber will deaden the sound and last forever. A couple tubes of clear silicone from Home Depot should make a good 1/4" thick layer on the outside of them, with the mudflaps cut to fit each side and bottom.
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Outside I use a cardboard box with old papers, taped to a aluminium sheet, as added protection for passthrough. I hang it on tree, and take it down when finishing shooting, as it is on my neighbours property. When I am finished shooting, the lead is contained in the box. I trow new papers as I get them, in a new box, and always have a box ready when the old one gets to heavy to carry. The only dowside, it does not like to be wet when it rains
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Brilliant, I love when people think outside the box. I have some commercial carpet that has a rubber backing. It already comes with a light adhesive applied to the rubber backing so it will be easy to slap on and see how it works. I can try that out and see how it works. I should be able to get to that this week.
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The carpet works well and changed the harmonics. It now sounds like a thud and not a high pitch metal on metal hammer ding. I'm going to line the inside of the sides with carpet and put down a rubber mat on the bottom.
Thanks for helping me be a good neighbor.
Thanks for helping me be a good neighbor.
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I use bullet traps made for up to 22 cal firearms. I tape my targets to 12 in square cardboard clipped to the front of the trap. The traps are made from rather heavy steel with a back plate that directs the pellets down into the collection area. Once you get a good layer of spent lead, it dampens the sound enough that no one nearby would be bothered.
Not the cheapest solution, buy hey this is my hobby.
Another option is a bale of hay, I use one for my 75 yard targets, totally quiet.
Not the cheapest solution, buy hey this is my hobby.
Another option is a bale of hay, I use one for my 75 yard targets, totally quiet.
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This is a topic I posted some years ago .
I like my guns to be as quiet as possible , so put all kinds of moderators , which helps a lot. But I realize that the main noise was coming of the pellet hitting the paper target. So I decided to build a wooden box ( 3/4 plywood ) with a removable top and a little plexi window to give the target some light.Dimensions are 20 inches long and the front face is the size of a A4 sheet of paper. The inside walls are covered with noise insulation foam , and the target is held on a metal frame with magnets, 4 inches inside the box. Just behind the target I put 3 inches of high density rubber foam, and some bags filled with sand to stop the pellet.
It works well, but I realize that some target paper are "louder" than others ; printing papers gives a kind of "twack" when hit , and drawing paper or soft cardboard seem to be quieter.Here is a pic of the box
I
I keep trying to improve it somewhat
I like my guns to be as quiet as possible , so put all kinds of moderators , which helps a lot. But I realize that the main noise was coming of the pellet hitting the paper target. So I decided to build a wooden box ( 3/4 plywood ) with a removable top and a little plexi window to give the target some light.Dimensions are 20 inches long and the front face is the size of a A4 sheet of paper. The inside walls are covered with noise insulation foam , and the target is held on a metal frame with magnets, 4 inches inside the box. Just behind the target I put 3 inches of high density rubber foam, and some bags filled with sand to stop the pellet.
It works well, but I realize that some target paper are "louder" than others ; printing papers gives a kind of "twack" when hit , and drawing paper or soft cardboard seem to be quieter.Here is a pic of the box
I
I keep trying to improve it somewhat
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