Applying The Original Bees Wax Lube To Pellets

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douger said:
I’ve never lubed see no need for it clean barrel takes 4-5 minutes.
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I never used to...recently just took some 3in1 oil and put it in a few select tins for testing. They seem a little easier to load[previously were a slight stuggle], and the ones that get used alot less seem to be more shelf stable too[less 'dirty']is all I can really tell.
 
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Mo-Ron said:
I find that shoeshine buffing as said above dors well maybe best. Apply to center of rag and thin and even dunp in pellets fold hold both ends and use back and forth motion/ buff.. if you feel too much just do in dry rag to remove the excess.

View attachment 292488
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I use a microfibre towel, using 'liquid' beeswax furniture polish getting the towel 'damp'. then do the same as you. Store the towel in a plastic ziplock to keep extra dirt off, can't say it helps BUT it most certainly doesn't hurt.
 
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FNG Bigbore said:
I make cutting boards on the side and make what we call Board butter. It’s a mix of mineral oil and Beewax. It’s thicker than a chapstick. I have 2 and 4 oz tins of it
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FNG Bigbore, the wax won't detonate via dieseling...but mineral oil will. Mineral oil and petroleum based products will diesel. If you're diluting the mineral oil by mixing it with the wax, you'll likely eventually come to a ratio wherein the wax is the greater portion of the mix and dieseling probably won't occur at/after that ratio. What that "diesel-safe-ratio" may turn out to be is anyone's guess. I suppose you could mix by weight, log the info per each small batch, lube some pellets up with each...keeping the batches separate, and fire them off from a cheap magnum break barrel like a modern gamo or something. I'd make sure it's a gas-ram gun and not a spring gun. You might come up with something that protects the pellet against oxidation very well, cleans and lubes the barrel, and doesn't ever diesel. Might be onto something. I've used pure silicone, a German brand I keep in the shop. I've used it on pellets via the tee-shirt "rolling" method some have described herein. The mineral oil content in your mix, however, is more of a solvent than silicone so, it should clean better while the wax enhances the protection factor of the oil. I've also used 100% synthetic automatic trans fluid for lubing seals & o-rings. It's (red)...like a certain pel gun oil. Auto transmission valve bodies contain o-rings and they're exposed to torturous conditions compared to most airgun seals. I prefer silicone if only because it's not as "visibly-messy," it's heavier and less likely to penetrate & saturate the softer o-rings if it's used liberally. BTW, I never apply any oil very heavily at all. Just some food for thought.
 
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If they are pellets: Spray your product in a tupperware container, add pellets, tumble, then place on parchment paper. After sitting for 24 hours place in a pellet box of your choice.
Slugs: Spray your product in a tupperware container, add slugs, tumble, then place on parchment paper. Size slugs, spray a tiny amount in tupperware container, tumble, then place on parchment paper. After sitting for 24 hours place in slug box of your choice.
 
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NGAG said:
FNG Bigbore, the wax won't detonate via dieseling...but mineral oil will. Mineral oil and petroleum based products will diesel. If you're diluting the mineral oil by mixing it with the wax, you'll likely eventually come to a ratio wherein the wax is the greater portion of the mix and dieseling probably won't occur at/after that ratio. What that "diesel-safe-ratio" may turn out to be is anyone's guess. I suppose you could mix by weight, log the info per each small batch, lube some pellets up with each...keeping the batches separate, and fire them off from a cheap magnum break barrel like a modern gamo or something. I'd make sure it's a gas-ram gun and not a spring gun. You might come up with something that protects the pellet against oxidation very well, cleans and lubes the barrel, and doesn't ever diesel. Might be onto something. I've used pure silicone, a German brand I keep in the shop. I've used it on pellets via the tee-shirt "rolling" method some have described herein. The mineral oil content in your mix, however, is more of a solvent than silicone so, it should clean better while the wax enhances the protection factor of the oil. I've also used 100% synthetic automatic trans fluid for lubing seals & o-rings. It's (red)...like a certain pel gun oil. Auto transmission valve bodies contain o-rings and they're exposed to torturous conditions compared to most airgun seals. I prefer silicone if only because it's not as "visibly-messy," it's heavier and less likely to penetrate & saturate the softer o-rings if it's used liberally. BTW, I never apply any oil very heavily at all. Just some food for thought.
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The flash point of beeswax is 400 F degrees. Does anyone know how much heat is generated by a pellet going down a barrel is? Of course its going to depend on how fast that pellet is traveling. So generally speaking, maybe less than 400 degrees at 900 fps?

PTFE, on the other hand, has a melting point of 327 Celsius (621F). I've tried the beeswax furniture spray and found that after about 1/2 tin of pellets, my groups started going to hell. I discovered that the barrel was extremely dirty. My theory is that the lead dust co-mingled with the wax and fouled the rifling. I switched to Finish Line Dry with Teflon bicycle chain lube and now my barrel stay cleaner longer than the beeswax. (Your mileage may vary)
 
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Mr.H said:
The flash point of beeswax is 400 F degrees. Does anyone know how much heat is generated by a pellet going down a barrel is? Of course its going to depend on how fast that pellet is traveling. So generally speaking, maybe less than 400 degrees at 900 fps?

PTFE, on the other hand, has a melting point of 327 Celsius (621F). I've tried the beeswax furniture spray and found that after about 1/2 tin of pellets, my groups started going to hell. I discovered that the barrel was extremely dirty. My theory is that the lead dust co-mingled with the wax and fouled the rifling. I switched to Finish Line Dry with Teflon bicycle chain lube and now my barrel stay cleaner longer than the beeswax. (Your mileage may vary)
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Let me put it very simply, don't sweat it. I've used bees wax furniture polish (LIQUID) on my pellets with zero issues. I have better success with a 'dirty' barrel than one that is sparkly clean, but I'm using the FX soda straws so....YMMV. I recently conducted a limited test of putting Mobil 1 oil on the back of pellets to see if I could get them to Diesel. The answer was no. Caveat use of a lower flash point lubricant may cause it so...beware.

1st 6 plain pellets, 2nd 6 oiled.

.22 AA 16gr #5. Scope 8.75, -1.5

AA .22 16.0gr

Shot count: 12

Low: 949 FPS
Hi: 981 FPS
Avg: 967 FPS
Spread: 32 FPS
STD Dev: 8.8 FPS

14-Jan-2024 13:44:12,949,FPS,32.0,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:44:20,967,FPS,33.3,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:44:35,970,FPS,33.4,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:44:46,967,FPS,33.3,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:44:54,981,FPS,34.2,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:45:02,956,FPS,32.5,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:45:14,965,FPS,33.1,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:45:26,977,FPS,33.9,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:45:36,967,FPS,33.3,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:45:47,970,FPS,33.4,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:46:55,956,FPS,32.5,FT Lbs,
14-Jan-2024 13:47:05,974,FPS,33.7,FT Lbs,
 
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