Tuning ARH black tar ?

[Marc from France]

Hello

I wanted to know if many of you use arh black tar ? Do you feel something better ?
Maybe try put on my hw95 arh Hornet kit…

Thanks

 

[Toxylon]

I guess you mean ARH Heavy Tar. I've used Heavy Tar in many of my relube jobs, but it's a bit of a has-been to me. It's really messy, and the advantages are debatable at best.

In my experience, there's no substitute for well-fitted guides, which need zero tar, and those guns that have loose bits rattling inside aren't really fixed by the tar for any real amount of time. To top it off, Heavy Tar inside a springer makes the gun much more temperature-sensitive, which is a dealbreaker for a guy like me, shooting in many different temps over the course of a year, sometimes over the course of a week.

 

[Marc from France]

Yes heavy tar.
Thanks for your contribution

 

[Shuggoth]

I agree with Toxylon, a well fitted guide is the way to go. The tar does work and I have used it in the past but it seems to slow the fps down a bit and it will change in cooler temps. Funny though, I used some by mistake on a gun a few months ago thinking it was a darker version of moly since my containers were not marked and I have to say the gun had a really nice shooting cycle.

 

[Silver Ace]

Regardless of how well fitting the guide is, I use a VERY light coat of the heavy tar on the OD of the spring. Do not “butter” the spring with this. Or it will be temperature sensitive.

Just a very thin coat enough to break the metal to metal contact.

I believe ‘velocity tar’ was for the spring guides. I dont believe this tar is available anymore.

 

[Vana2]

I've used Molybdenum grease (the base for all the "tars") and the various airgun "tar" greases for 50+ years with excellent results.

More recently I've changed to "Lucas Oil Red "N" Tacky Grease" (aka: Almagard 3752 aka: Tune-in-a-tube) which works very well and is less messy than moly. Bonus is that it is reasonably priced and available at most stores with a decent automotive department.

I've also thinned the red grease (with naphtha) to "paint" on to parts. The naphtha evaporates leaving a thin, even coat of grease on the surface.

Cheers!

 

[Mycapt65]

The less grease, the better. Very very little is needed when built right. Tar is also known as open gear lube.
It's used on diesel train traction motor gears that I worked on. It's also widely used in other industrial and agricultural equipment. It's nasty stuff and it'll ruin any clothes you get it on.
That said I've used it sparingly on two of my guns that the kits were cut on the loose side. It helped deaden the last hints of twang. At least until the guns get warm and then it's no better. If I put more it slows the gun until it eventually flings off and causes dieseling.

Yes people have used it for decades but it doesn't mean there's not better ways of doing it now.

 

[jlharden]

I've been using the Vortek stuff on springs and internals and Slip2000 EWG on all contact points, pivots, etc. All good stuff. Anyone have any idea what the origin of the Vortek grease is?

 

[boscoebrea]

It is thick sticky goo,ok tar it is used to tame the harmonics of the spring, nothing else, too much is bad, it has to be sticky,if it ain't sticky it ain't tar, you do not want stuff fling off in your cylinder. Taming the harmonics is just quieting the spring.if it ain't thud is dud