I bought a few buttons from ARH that I thought I might use in my old Barakuda. I assumed they were "peel and stick", but apparently they are not. What does one use to adhere these things to the piston skirt?
JD
JD
HW/Weihrauch ARH Buttons
- Thread starter JayDee24ca
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I bought these a few years ago for one of my springers, I forget which one. I applied them exactly as Jim instructed. I roughened up the sides of the piston and the buttons and used the specified glue. They didn't stay attached very long. Could just be my bad luck???
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I bought the same ones. I think he called them "quick and dirty" buttons or something like that. They were literally paper thin discs of delrin that were intended to be superglued to the piston. I never tried them as the whole idea just looked really dodgy once I actually had the parts in front of me.
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They are called Old School Buttons and I have never seen them made of Delrin. Seem to be made of a "cloth" type material?
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I think a Machinist has to install. Piston needs seats to rest in with a good epoxy, like Brownell's Acra-Glass. Probably best with bronze buttons.
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Use your favorite brand of cyanoacrylate glue. Not a gel type, the regular runny consistency stuff.
Clean, clean, clean is the watchword for your piston body. Roughen the area where you want the button with Grey Scotchbrite or an equivalent, and then completely degrease and wipe it down.
The DARK side of the button is the glue side. You will see the difference with them in hand. The DARK side of the button is what J. M. calls the maroon side on his website, and that is the side that gets glued to the piston body.
Apply a small dot of glue where you want the button placed, and then place the button on your small dab of glue. Approximately the size of a match head is more than enough glue.
The next step is important
Once you place the button you want to press it to the piston body until the glue sets. Use a piece of butchers paper, or meat wrapping paper. You want the paper with a rough side and a smooth glossy side. Use the smooth glossy side to press the button down for approximately 30 seconds. The glue will not adhere to the shiny paper side, nor to your fingers.
Did it a few times, and they have held up so far. Good luck with your project!
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That’s possible, but I remember them being made of some sort of plastic. This was about 20 years ago however so my memory may not be the best.
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Thank you all for all the response. I have a bunch of CY glue, the runny stuff, left over from model ship building, so I will use that. Many thanks! I have another question about the Barakuda that I will post under a different heading.
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I think that both of you are correct.
They seem to be made of PTFE, Delrin or the like that is bonded to a backer material of some type that allows them to be bonded to a surface.
I believe that is why J.M. is so specific about which side gets glued.
The light tan side that bears on the compression tube when installed will burnish down to a glassy smooth surface under use, or when sized with a buffer motor.
Just my thoughts though, take it as such.
Also, I have used them in break barrel springers to good effect, and I think that they do well in an application where they bear constantly on a surface throughout their range of travel.
Using them on a piston that cycles in and out of a compression cylinder like a Diana 48, HW77 or the like may present problems?
Careful set up and centering of the piston would be important to prevent the glue on buttons from catching the rear edge of compression cylinder and lifting, I think?
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I have used them and being convinced they would not stick; I made a concerted effort to use thin cyano that was from fresh stock and careful surface prep. They have held up for several thousand rounds.....but it does seem dodgy. I am pleased so far.
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Hey guys,
I’ve used Jim‘s “old school“ buttons on all my tunes for the last 8 years.
They work great assuming you can get them past receiver cut outs.
Once in the compression chamber, they hold very well.
I usually rough up the piston with 220 carborundum, wet the correct side of the button with alcohol and glue with loctite super glue. I turn the piston on the lathe to trim the buttons to right height.
Buttons slow the velocity 10-15 fps, hence I usually start with an almost maxed out spring spacing.
The payoff is ….. the shot cycle is very smooth and solid feeling.
I’ve used Jim‘s “old school“ buttons on all my tunes for the last 8 years.
They work great assuming you can get them past receiver cut outs.
Once in the compression chamber, they hold very well.
I usually rough up the piston with 220 carborundum, wet the correct side of the button with alcohol and glue with loctite super glue. I turn the piston on the lathe to trim the buttons to right height.
Buttons slow the velocity 10-15 fps, hence I usually start with an almost maxed out spring spacing.
The payoff is ….. the shot cycle is very smooth and solid feeling.
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