Arken EPL 6-24x50 review

I decided my P35-22 shoots so well it deserved a better optic than the ~$200 ones I have been using. I used to use an Athlon Talos 6-24 on it but moved that to the P35-177 and kind of want to leave it there. I put a Primary Arms classic 4-16 on it and it worked fine except for target work. I can see targets at 30-35 yards (the limit in my yard) but I cannot see the 10 ring on the 30 yard challenge target well. So I started thinking about something better for the 22. I posted a thread about seeing 22 caliber holes at 100 yards and got a lot of feedback that basically indicated scopes less than ~$1000 with the exception of a target fixed power scope were iffy for this. So I looked for something a little better than my others but no more than $500. The Arken at $330 seemed to stand out for value.

I ordered one and got it Friday. I immediately mounted it and started shooting with it, Positive attributes include:

1) Windage and elevation adjustments are very definite and dependable. Clicks are audible and can be felt. The point of aim (POA) changes just like it should. Seems to be every time. That is not true for my other scopes. They move but the clicks are not as clear and they seem to delay movement and then jump sometimes which can be frustrating.

2) Everything included seems to be high quality. The scope seems that way, the sunshade is, and even the lens cover, while not the type I prefer, is good quality. It did not come with rings which is fine by me but I would have liked to get flip up covers (the type I prefer).

3) The glass is clear. Not noticably better than my Athlon Talos 6-24 but noticably better than my Vector Sentinel 8-32. The Arken and Athlon at 24X allow pellet placement as well as does the Vector Sentinel at 32 power in my opinion.

4) The reticle is nicely marked and pretty easy to use when you are at 10X or greater.

5) Illumination has off positions between each on position

6) It is reasonably light weight

7) Easy to reset zero and has a positive zero stop for elevation. The windage is like my other scopes, you remove a screw, rotate the dial, and push it back on and replace the screw. There are teeth so you can't always perfectly zero it perfectly. The elevation is different. There are three grub screws on the elevation turret which you back off to rotate the dial and then retighten the grub screws. That permits a more precise zero. There is also a zero stop which I haven't used so far. To use it you must loosen a grub screw, then rotate a screw that goes down from the top of the knob, until it touches a surface inside the knob then retighten the grub screw. Then you cannot turn the elevation below the stop.

Things I don't love include:

1) The scope is pretty much unusable at 6X and even 8X. The reticle is nicely fine when shooting targets at 24X but it disappears when you turn the power down. Turning the illumination helps but the reticle is still pretty much invisible at 6X, might be visible at 8X in sunlight. That is with the illumination at the highest setting. I thought this might be true when I purchased it because it is FFP. But my Primary Arms 4-14 has a reticle fully visible throughout the magnification range (it is also FFP).

2) The parallax will not focus at 10 yards as specified. It might be due to where I set the diopter. I wear prescription glasses while shooting (that have safety lenses) and that may affect this. My Vector won't go to 10 yards either but my Athlon will. My Arken focuses fine at 15 yards and probably will at less than that, maybe even at 11 yards, I haven't tested that yet.
3) The markings of the knobs for elevation and windage are unusual and a little confusing to me. I am used to an arrow on the top of the knob showing you which direction to turn the knob. These knobs do not have that. They have little arrows next to the zero mark which should provide the same information but is confusing me. I also cannot see it if the knob is not close to the zero point. What I have resorted to doing is just watching through the scope as I turn the knob. That works, at least while shooting from the bench.

Overall, my view is this is a fine optic but better suited for target work than for hunting/pesting. I have trouble finding moving targets at more than 6X. It is the least expensive optic I have used that adjusts POA this well.
 
I decided my P35-22 shoots so well it deserved a better optic than the ~$200 ones I have been using. I used to use an Athlon Talos 6-24 on it but moved that to the P35-177 and kind of want to leave it there. I put a Primary Arms classic 4-16 on it and it worked fine except for target work. I can see targets at 30-35 yards (the limit in my yard) but I cannot see the 10 ring on the 30 yard challenge target well. So I started thinking about something better for the 22. I posted a thread about seeing 22 caliber holes at 100 yards and got a lot of feedback that basically indicated scopes less than ~$1000 with the exception of a target fixed power scope were iffy for this. So I looked for something a little better than my others but no more than $500. The Arken at $330 seemed to stand out for value.

I ordered one and got it Friday. I immediately mounted it and started shooting with it, Positive attributes include:

1) Windage and elevation adjustments are very definite and dependable. Clicks are audible and can be felt. The point of aim (POA) changes just like it should. Seems to be every time. That is not true for my other scopes. They move but the clicks are not as clear and they seem to delay movement and then jump sometimes which can be frustrating.

2) Everything included seems to be high quality. The scope seems that way, the sunshade is, and even the lens cover, while not the type I prefer, is good quality. It did not come with rings which is fine by me but I would have liked to get flip up covers (the type I prefer).

3) The glass is clear. Not noticably better than my Athlon Talos 6-24 but noticably better than my Vector Sentinel 8-32. The Arken and Athlon at 24X allow pellet placement as well as does the Vector Sentinel at 32 power in my opinion.

4) The reticle is nicely marked and pretty easy to use when you are at 10X or greater.

5) Illumination has off positions between each on position

6) It is reasonably light weight

7) Easy to reset zero and has a positive zero stop for elevation. The windage is like my other scopes, you remove a screw, rotate the dial, and push it back on and replace the screw. There are teeth so you can't always perfectly zero it perfectly. The elevation is different. There are three grub screws on the elevation turret which you back off to rotate the dial and then retighten the grub screws. That permits a more precise zero. There is also a zero stop which I haven't used so far. To use it you must loosen a grub screw, then rotate a screw that goes down from the top of the knob, until it touches a surface inside the knob then retighten the grub screw. Then you cannot turn the elevation below the stop.

Things I don't love include:

1) The scope is pretty much unusable at 6X and even 8X. The reticle is nicely fine when shooting targets at 24X but it disappears when you turn the power down. Turning the illumination helps but the reticle is still pretty much invisible at 6X, might be visible at 8X in sunlight. That is with the illumination at the highest setting. I thought this might be true when I purchased it because it is FFP. But my Primary Arms 4-14 has a reticle fully visible throughout the magnification range (it is also FFP).

2) The parallax will not focus at 10 yards as specified. It might be due to where I set the diopter. I wear prescription glasses while shooting (that have safety lenses) and that may affect this. My Vector won't go to 10 yards either but my Athlon will. My Arken focuses fine at 15 yards and probably will at less than that, maybe even at 11 yards, I haven't tested that yet.
3) The markings of the knobs for elevation and windage are unusual and a little confusing to me. I am used to an arrow on the top of the knob showing you which direction to turn the knob. These knobs do not have that. They have little arrows next to the zero mark which should provide the same information but is confusing me. I also cannot see it if the knob is not close to the zero point. What I have resorted to doing is just watching through the scope as I turn the knob. That works, at least while shooting from the bench.

Overall, my view is this is a fine optic but better suited for target work than for hunting/pesting. I have trouble finding moving targets at more than 6X. It is the least expensive optic I have used that adjusts POA this well.
Todays pro tip, use the illumination at lower powers, pro tip #2, when you get the zero set use some purple locktite on the 3 turret screws, you'll thank me later. I use both of my Arken's for hunting, the reticles are great for sniping squirrels.
 
Thanks. I haven't shot a squirrel with it yet (concentrating on the 177 at the moment) but I have tried the illumination at low power and I agree it helps. I have not given up on it but I wish other reviews had commented on the invisibility of the reticle at 6X. Even with the illumination on at the highest intensity I still struggle to see the reticle at 6X. It may be usable at 8X. At least that is my current assessment. Squirrels tend to hide up in trees where there is less light to it may work a little better than I currently think.

The thickness of the reticle is for targets more than hunting in my opinion. I'd like it better if it was about 50% thicker. It's a problem for FFP scopes in general. If the reticle is thick enough to be seen at the lowest power it will be considered too thick by some users at the highest power. I can't imagine how a 6X FFP scope can possibly work over the full range of magnification. If Arken had offered this as a SFP I would have bought that. I'd give up the consistency of the reticle markings for a reticle I can see.
 
Thanks. I haven't shot a squirrel with it yet (concentrating on the 177 at the moment) but I have tried the illumination at low power and I agree it helps. I have not given up on it but I wish other reviews had commented on the invisibility of the reticle at 6X. Even with the illumination on at the highest intensity I still struggle to see the reticle at 6X. It may be usable at 8X. At least that is my current assessment. Squirrels tend to hide up in trees where there is less light to it may work a little better than I currently think.

The thickness of the reticle is for targets more than hunting in my opinion. I'd like it better if it was about 50% thicker. It's a problem for FFP scopes in general. If the reticle is thick enough to be seen at the lowest power it will be considered too thick by some users at the highest power. I can't imagine how a 6X FFP scope can possibly work over the full range of magnification. If Arken had offered this as a SFP I would have bought that. I'd give up the consistency of the reticle markings for a reticle I can see.
Frankly, for up close and personal, a SFP is fine, heck I use a 12x to 80 yards with my 17HMR but that thing is a laser out to 110 yards so it's easy. My minimum range is 50 yards, with the occasional 15 or 25. It takes a bit of time to get use to the Arken's. Here is a link to my last crummy video, my production values are pretty low. You can see the scope at different distances, farthest one is 100 yds Vids at the bottom, there is an arial view of where I'm at a bit up. Warning, graphic videos, it is in hunting...https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/ive-scored-prime-ground-squirrel-hunting.1285842/page-2
 
The best hunting scope I've used in FFP is the Athlon Helos BTR Gen2 2-12x42. But you lose the precise target shooting ability IMO as it shines at 4-8x but too thick above 10x for sure to me. The Arkens have a thinner reticle compared to my Helos BTR Gen2 4-20x50. Nature of the beast unfortunately with FFP scopes. I can personally use 6x just fine on my scopes even 4x if need be but where I shoot the sky is my backdrop or white tin so I can see easily. Plus I'm 30 with 20/20 vision. I will say though target shooting I also don't like anything above 12x usually. I feel like I get tunnel vision with a small FOV lol
 
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This thread is old but I feel like I need to amend my comments relative to hunting with my Arken EPL4 6-24. I took my fourth squirrel with it today and it works significantly better than I thought it would. I have used both 8X and 10X. Fortunately I made a stock for the P35 it is on which fits so I can find my target even with it turned up to 10X. I have not taken a shot using the lighted reticle but I have messed with it and it could be useful in low light. 8X is definitely useful and visible in good light. I also now think the glass is a little better than my Athlon Talos 6-24. But I still think the way the turrets are marked is stupid. It's so easy to just put a right and an up arrow I don't know why Arken can't do it. But that only affects sight in. Overall I like it even better now that I've used it more. It cost more than my other scopes but it's worth it.
 
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I think, like you, that the lowly Primary Arms 4-14x handles FFP duties extremely well for its entire range, unlike most scopes that I have tried. The reticle size they chose is optimal for usability for hunting but they should have included an IR for low light or better glass. Still, it's a great usable scope for little money. I have been going back to SFP scopes because of the reticles disappearing into uselessness on FFP models. Strelok does my corrections anyway. The Arkens do seem like a good deal though if you aren't using the low end.
 
I have the EPL4 6-24 also and it's on my Huben .25. I agree with @JimD in that I seem to forget (I'm old) which way to turn the turrets for up/down, left/right, but it's really during sight in as said. I can get it down to 10 yards, but I have to treat the tiny reticle as a "single" so I can aim it! I'm using the scope more for hunting so fortunately (or unfortunately) I don't seem to get critters to come that close for me to shoot so it's not an issue. At 24x it only becomes a bit more difficult when I'm shooting the targets at 200 yards plus as it's tough for me to position the large reticle where I want to (age related again). And amen to @HogKiller comment on the Loctite - that happened to me and I was doing a "WTF" when the turrets turned freely and no reticle movement!
 
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This thread is old but I feel like I need to amend my comments relative to hunting with my Arken EPL4 6-24. I took my fourth squirrel with it today and it works significantly better than I thought it would. I have used both 8X and 10X. Fortunately I made a stock for the P35 it is on which fits so I can find my target even with it turned up to 10X. I have not taken a shot using the lighted reticle but I have messed with it and it could be useful in low light. 8X is definitely useful and visible in good light. I also now think the glass is a little better than my Athlon Talos 6-24. But I still think the way the turrets are marked is stupid. It's so easy to just put a right and an up arrow I don't know why Arken can't do it. But that only affects sight in. Overall I like it even better now that I've used it more. It cost more than my other scopes but it's worth it.
Now even older but still relevant! I’m looking at this very scope (hunter reticle) to replace a 4-16x44 sfp for hunting and came across your post, would you mind helping me out with a couple of questions?

how is the eyebox at higher maginifications? my current scope on 16x is very tight, neck-strain tight… I hope this one is better?

currently most of my shots are about 50 yards and magnification is never below 10x ( only stationary targets in a verified safe environment so tunnel vision is not an issue), how usable is it from 10x and up?

any problems with reliabillity? I know it’s just a 500 dollar scope but still,a little ruggedness and water resistance are required…

thank you very much for your time!
 
No issues with it. Arken is also said to be great responding if there is an issue. 10X is not a problem for me to see. I also have no problem with the eye box but with a caveat. I don't shoot animals above 10X and my stocks are custom and fit me. If I leave my scopes at their highest power and then pick them up to shoot a pest I have had issues but I don't know it was with the Arken. I think eye box gets tighter as the power increases. I also noted recently that my EPL-4 is not the bottom of Arkens line any more. Given the lower price the glass is probably not as good on the lessexpensive one. It has both turrets capped whereas the EPL has an uncovered elevation turret.