Tuning Artemis M22(M10 and M11), Problem with seardrag

[airgun14]

thanks, yes if you come up with something that i could ty, just tell me.

I will try to understand how the trigger parts and springs works, maybe I can adjust something, I will test that first, I will also try to find a small lighter spring, but even if I find i lighter spring it will still grind on the hammer just less force, but still o problem, I think the solution is to find something wrong in setting and adjustments , or I have to grind some material on the hammer.... I have to take one step in time..

 

[Odoyle]

Check inside your trigger group if you got a stuck pellet or maybe a fallen in loose washer or screw or something that doesn't belong blocking the sear from totally disengaging. 

 

[airgun14]

Ive checked how it works, the sear that holds the hammerweight must have tension from a spring to be able to get up and grab the weight, otherwise the sear would be hanging lose.

So the sear must always be draging along the hammerweight, stronger spring = more seardrag, lighter spring = less, so I dont se how it is possible for the sear to avoid completely avoid contact with the hammerweight..

Would be nice if someone with a M22 checked their hammerweight, if they also have seardrag., they must...

 

[airgun14]

https://imgur.com/qqrFCYx



yes, simple drawing, but shows how the little stiff spring must be there to avoid the sear to drop down, so as long as there has to be a spring, it will always drag along the hammer.

Hmmmm? or did I miss something

 

[Parrotculler]

I have just tuned my new M11 and made a pic of the trigger group.

The springs numbered 1 and 2 are different in length. Like Odoyle I put the shortest on the seer, i.e. the placement marked with a 1. First flattened the top and bottom of each spring with a file. Plus cleaned out the set holes that the springs fit into. I also took the edge off of the inside of the seer where it slides over the moving hammer. NOTE: I removed virtually no material!! Only took the sharp edge off with 1000 grain wet (silicone grease) sandpaper. Take off any more than that and the seer will become unsafe!! Also removed the heavy grease from all parts (incl the hammer, which I furthermore polished and lubed with graphite powder). Then turned out the set screws on the trigger to find a snappy first stage. Thereafter put the trigger group back together with shims cut from thin plastic. Put a drop of blue threadlocker on the end of each spring to steady it.

Finally, set a light second stage by turning in (clockwise) the set screw on the seer. This, together with the short spring, will also help relieve the seer pressure on the hammer. Be sure to apply the rubber mallet test to ensure the cocked gun does not discharge if the gun suffers an inadvertent bump. If it does, turn out the set screw a litte.

This gun now has the same sweet 2 stage trigger as my m22.

The seer slides over the hammer. It will become strained only by being pressed against it too hard. That will happen either if the spring is too long or if the 2nd stage set screw is too far out -- or a combination of both.

 

[Parrotculler]

Darn, I like this low cost/high quality platform. I polished the barrel and replaced the stock hammer spring with twin springs, now getting 37 shots @ 265 m/sec with the JSB Kings. Stock regulator set at 130 bar. Haven't tested long-distance accuracy yet, but it should be good if it is like the m22.

The beech has a nice grain. Should I keep it in SPA yellow as a kinda reverse fashion statement? Or should it be stripped and stained in walnut?

 

[airgun14]

from the picture, mine sear looks different, hmm, I think so, I will have to take mine apart like you did and post a picture.



By the way, how can you what pressure the regulator is active to?

 

[airgun14]

Just checked, no use taking picture, looks exactly like yours,,, I will try to get rough edges of and clean everything, but still, the sear as the construction is there is now way of getting rid of that sear drag, Just bothers me its there...

 

[nervoustrig]

So the sear drags against the hammer even with the trigger pulled?

I’ve never seen that, that’s why I’m asking.

 

[airgun14]

So the sear drags against the hammer even with the trigger pulled?

I’ve never seen that, that’s why I’m asking.

Thats why Im stunned, Ive switched spring 1 vs 2, makes no difference in mine, the problem here is, when the weight is cocked against the sear, then when pulling the trigger the hammer goes pass the sear (the sear drags along the hammer all the time cause it must be under spring tension), .....

Also, If u think of removing material from the hammerweight like 5mm behind where the sear grabs the hammer, I dont think it could return to start position again if the sear is free, you cant go back in that direction.... cause the system is built so the sear will always drag on the weight then when you cock the hammer again it returns...

So there is really no solution to get the hammer to move free



the only way I see it is to try a lighter spring

 

[airgun14]

Also if you pull the trigger to the bottom and hold it there, one would think if you push down the sear from this position it will fell like it could be pushed down with even springtension, NO way, it has tiny spring tension in some parts, it is also loose in some parts, really makes no sense

 

[airgun14]

If you remove material from the weight,,,,,,position nr 1, gun is cocked, when the sear is in position nr2, I dont think it could return to position nr 1 again ?

 

[nervoustrig]

Yeah that seems odd. All the prior discussion led me to think this is a typical direct sear design but apparently not so let’s try to step through it and see what’s happening.

There is a spring that presses the sear up to capture the lip of the hammer. Pulling the trigger applies pressure at the opposite end of the sear, causing the sear to gradually pivot and pull away from the hammer. Eventually the sear pivots far enough that the hammer is released and flies forward.

At the instant the sear releases the hammer, what happens at the spot where trigger blade is contacting the sear? Do they lose contact with each other? Normally they would stay in contact with each other, therefore as you fully squeeze the trigger, the sear pivots even further away from the hammer so it doesn’t drag. It sounds like yours does not do that.

Regarding the question on cutting a notch, there would need to be a ramp left in the end of the notch to push the sear out of the way so it can ride up (down) and over the lip.

 

[airgun14]

the moment the sear lets go off the hammer, no matter how hard you pull the trigger the sear dont move anything more away from the hammer ...



The moment the hammerweight is released the sear-part jumps over the part pushing the sear-part, so it does not matter if you try to squeeze the trigger more after that point..



I will try take picture of the 2 parts before and after, there is a hole on side so you can see when the sear release and what happens

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About making a slot in hammer, I dont think the sear can be pushed down after the hammer is released, I think you have to hold down the trigger to get the hammer back again over the sear,,

 

[airgun14]

1) before the hammer is released, 2) after hammer is released

 

[Parrotculler]

The seer should slide over the hammer, gently when pulling back the bolt with the trigger untouched.

Conversely the seer should be disengaged from the hammer when cocking with the trigger kept under tension. Indeed, when the trigger is pulled (and kept under tension) the middle piece pushes (and keeps) the seer away/disengaged from the hammer. Except if the spring on the seer is too strong or the second stage set screw is not turned in far enough. Or a combination of both.

(Note: as the pic shows, the set screw is on that middle piece and not on the seer itself.)

Suggestion:  turn (clockwise) the second stage set screw in until the gun does not cock anymore (with the trigger left alone). Then turn it out in small increments until the gun cocks. Then pull back the bolt again with the trigger engaged. If the seer still drags over the hammer, spring #1 is too strong. Try a shorter one from a lighter. (I would be reluctant to mess with the stock spring, you only have that one ...)

Good luck, and don't forget the mallet test before putting your gun back into operation!

 

[airgun14]

Hi, thanks for helping, but the second stage screw is there only for how long the second stage will be before the sear releases the hammer, I dont feel any difference in sear drag if this screw is all the way in or out, same seardrag pressure. Also no matter how hard you squeeze the trigger is does move away from the last sear, so does nothing to take away the tension...

Look inside the hole when you squeeze trigger, it moves away, it does not contribute to less seardrag..



Is this normal? I would think: harder trigger force, the more the last sear moves away from the hammer weight, but it isnt the case hear..

Maybe it could help a little bit with a lighter spring, but Im not sure anymore.

I guess I have to live with the hammer weight draging on the sear making a oval shape on the surface, just hope it holds over time..





I will take pictures of how it looks inside that hole where you can see both sears meet, 1 cocked, 1 released and the last one when squeezing trigger extra . I will be easier for other to see the function

 

[Geokirk40]

Anyone know where I can get a sear bracket for the SPA m10, m11, m20, or m22. In my manual it is part #55 however, in others it is part #57. 

Please excuse me for hijacking this thread!

 

[Rambo2]

Hi, I need a spare part for my Artemis Spa M22 trigger assembly. Sear Bracket is broken- part no 55 in exploded drawing in operating manual. Any ideas where to order this?

Long story here. Intake valve o-ring was leaking and I replaced it. Before that I emptied the air cylinder by dry fire until the trigger did not work anymore and the pressure was on yellow area. Then I removed the intake valve. Then I dismantled the trigger assembly but I couldn’t make it work anymore. Instead sear bracket went broke.

So I need information how to make trigger work again. This topic has a lot of trigger information but I don't understand what was the problem at first place. What screw should I adjust and how much. Trigger action was perfect before I made any part removals or dry fire. Why is dry fire a problem when pressure is too low?

 

[Rambo2]

Sorry about this steal also. I really need a spare sear bracket and I have a serious trigger assembly problem.