Artemis P15 gunsmith

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I appreciate that. The .25 P15 came to me leaking air and with a bad barrel. I had Lee at Leeairpro machine a LW Polygonal barrel for it. That was when the fun started. The original barrel had an indexing dimple at 12 o'clock to align the barrel and transfer port on the gun. Lee did not put one on. He said to just eyeball it to line it up and the barrel clamps would hold the barrel in place.

I also put in a Huma reg with his power plenum. It worked for several months then the gun started to shoot very erratic over the chrono, so I went back in, thinking regulator. I got nowhere with the internal Huma power plenum, and upon reassembly, the gun was shooting so slow that it would not read at the 590 fps minimum on my FX chrono. I had the HS in as far a it would go to no avail. Finally, I just put the factory reg in which I did not not touch, only swapped out. Same issue. In emptying the gun of air I fired it dry. If you loosen the bleeder screw and re-install it, it will leak. If you loosen the gauge it will leak, and it it difficult to re-align the gauge and still be able to get the fill probe in. I have already experienced those two things trying to fix the original leak when new. 

It seems to me, that when I turned the hammer spring in trying to get more velocity, whatever the hammer hits hit so hard it made it shift forward, so now when the hammer hits, what it is hitting is farther away, and so the power is reduced. I don't mind changing an oring or two, but I am not a tinkerer. If something operates properly, I leave it alone. Unfortunately the leaking gun and barrel issue existed as delivered. This is just what I have figured. I could be FOS.
 
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Check obstruction in Valve, Valve Poppet, Hammer Spring may be damaged...Remove Power Plenum and install Huma without Plenum, (I had the same issue) As for aligning Gauge twist out Fill Assembly (Entire section that has fill port and Gauge) out of air tube, just enough to get gauge aligned you can do this by putting a dowel into the fill port and turning...Not a difficult gun to work on see these :



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZqgEbkFPvI





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BTGJDfvkV8



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EL6fl6qkXRY



Also



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNQRBhyPu_8



You can follow his series of 5 or 6 videos specifically showing Hammer Spring hammer and Valve Assembly...






 
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cmatera,

Sorry for the delay getting back to you. Just a thought, based on a fuzzy recollection, I'm wondering if the valve pin shifted forward in the poppet and is causing the valve to not be able to open sufficiently. I could dig one of mine out and tear it down to see if that would be possible with the design, but I'm pretty sure it does. I'm one of those people that you can hold a grudge against, both of mine are accurate and are still holding air even though I haven't used them for over a year. I'm bummed when I hear these problems, because I like the simplicity of them. Let me know if you want to chat and I'll send a PM with my phone number.

Mark
 
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Well, I took the whole gun apart again:

?1

I just never had that aha! moment. I see no reason why a gun that was shooting 850 fps with a .25 Hades pellet, now only shoots 600-750 fps with the hammer spring maxed. Only thing I notice in the vids is a lot of guys use stacks of washers on the HS adjuster to give the spring a little more oomph. I guess that's all I can try.


 
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1598666141_3438802375f49b59daf8457.52671461.jpeg
I once broke the valve spring in my Skyhawk just from so much shooting it I believe.It was a fcone shaped spring that I had trouble finding and no success with PA.Finally was able to get snowpeak to send me parts.Long story short it’s very simple to work on.Anyway,if you haven’t done so make sure it’s empty,take the Airtube off the action and check the little spring that opens n closes the valve.Hope this helps
 
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A guy over on GTA has the exact same issue with a P15/Skyhawk last year. It had slow poke syndrome but I think it was a .177. We walked him through a ton of stuff to check and then he vanished. Never knew if he figured it out. First, if you don’t find anything and put it back together, turn your HS in until the gun won’t cock, then back it off a half turn. Fill it to 250b, fire and record a string and note the bar it comes off the reg. The reason I say this is if your reg is out of whack and either bypassed or set at 180b, it will show up with that string. You just don’t have enough HS to crack the valve at such high pressure. You will have a bell curve as the pressure drops. 
 
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pin #7 or #10 holds the valve seat #49 in place, this pin falls out easily and gets lost during disassembly, there is a notch on the outside of #49 that holds the pin , it is needed to keep the valve seat in place and the ports aligned

I got my barrel port lined up with the transfer passage by using a drill bit shank end and inserting it from the bottom of the receiver. You have to remove set screw #27 and the #49 valve seat to do this

hope this helps


 
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I will add the Chinese reg was a pain to tune in before I installed a Huma on mine but I don’t have extra plenum just replaced stock reg with Huma.My gun is also a .177 but I found on the Chinese regulator taking my gun apart over and over that the best setting was 3.5 turns out from bottom and 1 full hammer spring turn out from bottom.Again...mines .177 but it’s a place to start I guess.. good luck
 
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pin #7 or #10 holds the valve seat #49 in place, this pin falls out easily and gets lost during disassembly, there is a notch on the outside of #49 that holds the pin , it is needed to keep the valve seat in place and the ports aligned

I got my barrel port lined up with the transfer passage by using a drill bit shank end and inserting it from the bottom of the receiver. You have to remove set screw #27 and the #49 valve seat to do this

hope this helps

Click to expand...

This is very important info. 
 
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freak-eye said:
View attachment 109053I once broke the valve spring in my Skyhawk just from so much shooting it I believe.It was a fcone shaped spring that I had trouble finding and no success with PA.Finally was able to get snowpeak to send me parts.Long story short it’s very simple to work on.Anyway,if you haven’t done so make sure it’s empty,take the Airtube off the action and check the little spring that opens n closes the valve.Hope this helps
Click to expand...
 
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