Thanks Brazo
By the way I looked up the pin diameter and it's just under 5mm which is basically 3/16" thanks again.Upvote 0
Other Automatic Transmission fluid to lubricate main spring
- Thread starter Buddy2023
- Start date
By the way I looked up the pin diameter and it's just under 5mm which is basically 3/16" thanks again.Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it, what a wonderful group of people here, I'm glad I joined
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When you are putting it back together once you have one pin in you can relax. It won’t fly apart. Just lean into it slightly so the second pin goes in. The trigger group (T06) seems to naturally line itself back up when putting it batch together. I never had problems with it rotating.
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The majority of transmission/hydraulic fluids used today use mineral oil or silicone oil as their primary ingredient, so yes, you actuallyI wasn't talking about oil, I was talking about transmission fluid
are talking about oil.
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I'll get bashed for this but I'm putting it out here..
My last 2 springs I went with copper neverseize. Probably 5000+ on it and working great.
Next I figure I'll make my own moly paste using nonmetallic neverseize with powder moly mixed in .
Anyway the copper neverseize seems to do great . I guess when this spring bust as they eventually do I'll know when that time comes once cleaned up to go back with new ..
Kinda like used here
My last 2 springs I went with copper neverseize. Probably 5000+ on it and working great.
Next I figure I'll make my own moly paste using nonmetallic neverseize with powder moly mixed in .
Anyway the copper neverseize seems to do great . I guess when this spring bust as they eventually do I'll know when that time comes once cleaned up to go back with new ..
Kinda like used here
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I seem to remember Tom Gaylord using Transmission Oil on his FWB Sport. I was kinda shocked that he did that, and if memory serves it failed to have the desired effect.
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Albert Einstein once said "Anyone that has never made a mistake has never tried anything new "
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Automatic Transmission fluid made by Mobil IS a fully synthetic product "Modern Automatic Transmission Fluid consists of a base oil plus an additive package containing a wide variety of chemical compounds intended to provide the required properties of a particular Alphabet org specification. Most ATFs contain some combination of additives that improve lubricating qualities,[2][3][4] such as anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, detergents, dispersants and surfactants (which protect and clean metal surfaces); kinematic viscosity and viscosity index improvers and modifiers, seal swell additives and agents (which extend the rotational speed range and temperature range of the additives' application" You're right it is an oil, but with these wonderful properties and I was just joking with Mycap, I guess I should have made that more obvious.
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But I haven't used automatic transmission fluid over and over yet? After looking at the properties of automatic transmission fluid made by Mobil it's my opinion that it should be equal or superior to the spring oil RWS sells which I have used over and over again with no ill effects
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I did not say that you did and I am not interested in arguing with you. Have a good one and good luck!
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It's a totally different application than possible use in a springer, but I use transmission fluid instead of Crosman Pellgun Oil in all my C02 guns to keep the seals in good condition. It's way cheaper and I can buy it at the hardware store. A drop on the C02 cartridge neck and you're good to go.Automatic Transmission fluid made by Mobil IS a fully synthetic product "Modern Automatic Transmission Fluid consists of a base oil plus an additive package containing a wide variety of chemical compounds intended to provide the required properties of a particular Alphabet org specification. Most ATFs contain some combination of additives that improve lubricating qualities,[2][3][4] such as anti-wear additives, rust and corrosion inhibitors, detergents, dispersants and surfactants (which protect and clean metal surfaces); kinematic viscosity and viscosity index improvers and modifiers, seal swell additives and agents (which extend the rotational speed range and temperature range of the additives' application" You're right it is an oil, but with these wonderful properties and I was just joking with Mycap, I guess I should have made that more obvious.
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I kinda prefer thicker paste like stuff.
I used krytox some it was ok and butter smooth , but seemed I needed to keep going back in and kinda refreshing it .. idk.
The neversize been used I guess before the moly paste got poplar. Like moly paste it's messy to apply and cleanout also the neversize is by far cheaper.
I agree that trany fluid is not something I'd use on a main spring .. not for any longevity anyway. May even easy seep in front of the piston seal and then what ..lol.
I used krytox some it was ok and butter smooth , but seemed I needed to keep going back in and kinda refreshing it .. idk.
The neversize been used I guess before the moly paste got poplar. Like moly paste it's messy to apply and cleanout also the neversize is by far cheaper.
I agree that trany fluid is not something I'd use on a main spring .. not for any longevity anyway. May even easy seep in front of the piston seal and then what ..lol.
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Given the properties of automatic transmission fluid and the consensus here NOT to use it for mainspring lubrication, the blue fluid sold as spring oil by RWS should be reported to some agency for false advertising or something.
I can't see why it would be any different than using the RWS spring oil in regards to its consistancy they are identical in how runny they are. If you put up to several drops of automatic transmission fluid on the mainspring while still in the rifle and distribute it through the action tube with an air compressor I think it should work just fine, I certainly do not think it's going to hurt anything. I didn't realize how passionate people were about lubes, I'm never posting a thread on this topic again LOL!
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Here's the thing ..
You just do what you thinks is best for you. That what makes you gain experience .
Look I'm not going to knock it. I've done outside the box stuff and it's worked great then times not so.. it then falls under I'll know better next time.
You take the advice and/ or suggestions here what you read around and do what you feels best for you.. notice when I first posted I put " I'll probably get bashed for saying this" .. lol.
In the end you shrug your shoulders and go for something . It works out or it don't and you know better next try...
You just do what you thinks is best for you. That what makes you gain experience .
Look I'm not going to knock it. I've done outside the box stuff and it's worked great then times not so.. it then falls under I'll know better next time.
You take the advice and/ or suggestions here what you read around and do what you feels best for you.. notice when I first posted I put " I'll probably get bashed for saying this" .. lol.
In the end you shrug your shoulders and go for something . It works out or it don't and you know better next try...
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I'm not bashing ya pal, I just think some of the negative comments about using the automatic transmission fluid are unwarranted. For all I know RWS has Mobil make their mainspring oil and has them dye it blue instead of red LMAO I just think it's outrageous they charge $14+ for one ounce of oil whatever it's made of. I'm not opposed to using the grease that several folks have mentioned here, but I don't have any and I have a whole bottle of Mobil tranny fluid right in front of me LOL When I get my piston seal I'll clean her out and grease the spring like you guys suggest, but until then without taking the rifle apart a few dribbles of tranny fluid isn't gonna hurt anything.Here's the thing ..
You just do what you thinks is best for you. That what makes you gain experience .
Look I'm not going to knock it. I've done outside the box stuff and it's worked great then times not so.. it then falls under I'll know better next time.
You take the advice and/ or suggestions here what you read around and do what you feels best for you.. notice when I first posted I put " I'll probably get bashed for saying this" .. lol.
In the end you shrug your shoulders and go for something . It works out or it don't and you know better next try...
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Let me explain about spring oil for the benefit of new shooters. Although Buddy 2023 on this thread says he's used RWS spring oil with no ill effects, I would never recommended oiling a spring chamber or anywhere else on a springer with any oil. Unless it was a leather sealed gun. Then i believe you're supposed to use silicone or neatsfoot applied conservatively through the transfer port.
Grease is a better lube for springers because it stays put better. Oil simply doesn't cling to parts as well so it doesn't protect as well as grease. Oil breaks done grease, actually removing existing protection. Oil is also more prone to get past the piston seal. That causes dieseling and often detonation.
Dieseling is mild combustion from compression heat. It's normal in small amounts. In large amounts it ruins accuracy, can burn up piston seals and causes premature spring failure. Detonation is extremely rapid combustion denoted by a loud crack similar to a 22LR. New springers may detonate a few times before they burn off excess assembly lube. Detonation can rupture piston seals and shorten spring life greatly.
Springers need less lube than most people think. Only a little bit of grease is needed. People often use a lot of grease to deaden spring twang. When too much is used it can migrate in front of the piston seal and cause the same problems as oil. A little grease will last a long. The best way to deaden spring twang is with a tune kit with proper fitting guides.
Everyone here has there favorite lubes for springers but you won't find a single respected tuner that uses oil anywhere inside springer. Sans maybe trigger pivots. Stay with a good grease and a good moly paste in high load areas and you'll be fine. In my learning process I have made all the mistakes mentioned above and have personally verified all the information. I'm posting my mistakes so others don't have to.
Grease is a better lube for springers because it stays put better. Oil simply doesn't cling to parts as well so it doesn't protect as well as grease. Oil breaks done grease, actually removing existing protection. Oil is also more prone to get past the piston seal. That causes dieseling and often detonation.
Dieseling is mild combustion from compression heat. It's normal in small amounts. In large amounts it ruins accuracy, can burn up piston seals and causes premature spring failure. Detonation is extremely rapid combustion denoted by a loud crack similar to a 22LR. New springers may detonate a few times before they burn off excess assembly lube. Detonation can rupture piston seals and shorten spring life greatly.
Springers need less lube than most people think. Only a little bit of grease is needed. People often use a lot of grease to deaden spring twang. When too much is used it can migrate in front of the piston seal and cause the same problems as oil. A little grease will last a long. The best way to deaden spring twang is with a tune kit with proper fitting guides.
Everyone here has there favorite lubes for springers but you won't find a single respected tuner that uses oil anywhere inside springer. Sans maybe trigger pivots. Stay with a good grease and a good moly paste in high load areas and you'll be fine. In my learning process I have made all the mistakes mentioned above and have personally verified all the information. I'm posting my mistakes so others don't have to.
My 34 is 23 years old and it works just like it did when I bought it, when is the oil supposed to cause problems?
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Well I he think about the paste is it's stickability. Better noise and vibration damping . Things may of changed price wise but a jar of non metallic neverseize and a thing or fine ground moly dust a guy can make up his own mixture of moly paste ... Back before " moly paste " became the thing what was used ? Never seize. Just use copper not the aluminum or other metal kind .. and a thin coat ( like with the moly paste) lasts and goes a long way...
Personally I do feel fluid is too thin for main spring use , but what do I know ....right?
Anyway good luck on your endeavor on the fluid .. maybe best thing ever .
Personally I do feel fluid is too thin for main spring use , but what do I know ....right?
Anyway good luck on your endeavor on the fluid .. maybe best thing ever .
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I just completely disassembled my model 34 as per the instructions given to me here and the piston seal is torn at one edge a little, it's the original seal 23 years old so I'm shocked it's in as good of condition as it is. I'm going to order a Vortek piston seal and follow the advice here and use the grease they sell. I still think automatic tranny fluid will work though
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Take it from an auto mechanic of 15years... you don't want trans fluid anywhere near you. That stuff stinks even when brand new.
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