Air Venturi Avenge X tactical hammer spring adjustment

I’m thinking about getting one but the hammer spring adjustment looks to to be a major PITA on the tactical version. If the entire buffer tube and butt stock assembly is removed, it appears that the access to the hammer spring is pretty easy. I’m assuming I could just undo the castle nut to get the tube and stock off. Correct? Or, if the buttstock itself is removed from the tube, would an extra long hex wrench be able to get through the tube and into the adjustment screw? I want to do some tuning work on the rifle and I like the looks of the tactical but the classic has a much easier hammer spring adjustment path.

Tony
 
I’m thinking about getting one but the hammer spring adjustment looks to to be a major PITA on the tactical version. If the entire buffer tube and butt stock assembly is removed, it appears that the access to the hammer spring is pretty easy. I’m assuming I could just undo the castle nut to get the tube and stock off. Correct? Or, if the buttstock itself is removed from the tube, would an extra long hex wrench be able to get through the tube and into the adjustment screw? I want to do some tuning work on the rifle and I like the looks of the tactical but the classic has a much easier hammer spring adjustment path.

Tony
We sell adjustment tools that don’t require any stock disassembly if you are using the OEM hammer spring. It’s an offset belt driven hex tool that fits down into the rifle and allows for adjustment without removing any parts. I just got more inventory in today for them and will be listing more tomorrow.

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Thanks for the reply! I have seen the tool and it looks pretty good. A straight handled hex wrench would make it easier yet. I could see an L shaped wrench hitting a scope - maybe. I‘ve pretty well convinced myself that just getting the entire buttstock off via the removal of the buffer tube would get me access to the adjustment. From what I’ve seen so far, it appears that the tuning of the hammer spring can require just minor tweaks in or out for the best results. Going in thru the hole left by the buffer tube removal would give a really clean access to the adjustment. The gun would then be just rested to get the chrony numbers and when the right place was found, button it back up and test for accuracy. Of course, no plan meets the enemy and holds together so to speak, so my plan here may not be optimal for testing. In which case, you’ll probably see an order for your tool!

Tony
 
Thanks for the reply! I have seen the tool and it looks pretty good. A straight handled hex wrench would make it easier yet. I could see an L shaped wrench hitting a scope - maybe. I‘ve pretty well convinced myself that just getting the entire buttstock off via the removal of the buffer tube would get me access to the adjustment. From what I’ve seen so far, it appears that the tuning of the hammer spring can require just minor tweaks in or out for the best results. Going in thru the hole left by the buffer tube removal would give a really clean access to the adjustment. The gun would then be just rested to get the chrony numbers and when the right place was found, button it back up and test for accuracy. Of course, no plan meets the enemy and holds together so to speak, so my plan here may not be optimal for testing. In which case, you’ll probably see an order for your tool!

Tony
Yes, the L shaped tool only allows for about a 1/4 turn at a time. It can be done like that with the right size Allen key but it is a little tedious. You can also use the approach you mention with tuning and leaving it partially disassembled during. I love the rifle, but the hammer spring access and the vertical height of the chassis are a little off putting. The saber tactical chassis addresses the bulky chassis and makes it look much nicer IMO. I’m working on a new chassis that incorporates an arca rail instead of the pic rail and also slims it down quite a bit.
 
My original plan was to get the classic synthetic and the Saber chassis (agreed that it makes for a much, much improved look for the rifle!) but the chassis is pretty pricey. I'd love to see an alternative so make sure when you get yours done that you splash it all over so we don't miss it! Get some Mloks on the sides of the front end so you can mount the Mlok bipods!

Tony
 
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My original plan was to get the classic synthetic and the Saber chassis (agreed that it makes for a much, much improved look for the rifle!) but the chassis is pretty pricey. I'd love to see an alternative so make sure when you get yours done that you splash it all over so we don't miss it! Get some Mloks on the sides of the front end so you can mount the Mlok bipods!

Tony
Yeah, sounds good. We are on pyramyd air so whatever we come up with will also be listed over there.
 
I got my Avenge-X Tactical about a month ago and ran in to hammer spring adjustment issue. Evolve3D site showed the tool sold out and still shows it sold out. When tuning, I remove the buttstock and buffer tube. However, you still cannot get to the adjustment screw without further disassembly unless you drill an access hole in one of the rear chassis parts. I'm not sure what the part is called but you can get a new one from Pyramyd Air for about $5.00. I just shoot it without the buttstock and replace when finished. Just one screw that takes 4mm allen wrench in the center of the buffer tube to remove.

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I get my Avenge-X Tactical about a month ago and ran in to hammer spring adjustment issue. Evolve3D site showed the tool sold out and still shows it sold out. When tuning, I remove the buttstock and buffer tube. However, you still cannot get to the adjustment screw without further disassembly unless you drill an access hole in one of the rear chassis parts. I'm not sure what the part is called but you can get a new one from Pyramyd Air for about $5.00. I just shoot it without the buttstock and replace when finished. Just one screw that takes 4mm allen wrench in the center of the buffer tube to remove.

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I did get the Avenge X and the Saber Tactical chassis. I use a straight tube stock. I was kind of surprised that the Saber chassis was not wide open at the stock attachment point. A quick hole thru the area allows me to get the hex key in there. I have to pull the Saber piece that files in the gap at the end of the receiver but the result is the same as yours. Run the gun without the stock and make the adjustments.

Tony
 
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Inspired by @superduty250 post above, I took it one step further.

I drilled two slotted holes in parts #150 and #153. After drilling pilot holes, I used a 1/8” drill bit and gradually made the slot longer until I could get a ball-end Allen key to engage the screw from underneath the connecting ring.

With a standard length L shape ball-end Allen key, I can rotate the screw in 1/2 turn increments without removing the stock. With a longer one with a screwdriver handle, it could probably do full turns. Comparatively, you can only turn it in 1/6 turn increments with a stubby Allen from above

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I got my Avenge-X Tactical about a month ago and ran in to hammer spring adjustment issue. Evolve3D site showed the tool sold out and still shows it sold out. When tuning, I remove the buttstock and buffer tube. However, you still cannot get to the adjustment screw without further disassembly unless you drill an access hole in one of the rear chassis parts. I'm not sure what the part is called but you can get a new one from Pyramyd Air for about $5.00. I just shoot it without the buttstock and replace when finished. Just one screw that takes 4mm allen wrench in the center of the buffer tube to remove.

View attachment 517982

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Yeah, we had issues where some of the hammer springs were too stiff and the tool was slipping. I redesigned it to be gear driven but the nylon printed gears were also cracking in some cases. I would rather discontinue the tool than potentially sell something that doesn’t work consistently. I apologize for the issues. I tried to get something to work but without being able to make a chain driven or metal gear design, I don’t think I can reliably get the torque to adjust the hammer springs on everyone’s rifles. Some of them would break away and rotate pretty easily (including mine), but I was also getting feedback saying it would start slipping.
 
Yeah, we had issues where some of the hammer springs were too stiff and the tool was slipping. I redesigned it to be gear driven but the nylon printed gears were also cracking in some cases. I would rather discontinue the tool than potentially sell something that doesn’t work consistently. I apologize for the issues. I tried to get something to work but without being able to make a chain driven or metal gear design, I don’t think I can reliably get the torque to adjust the hammer springs on everyone’s rifles. Some of them would break away and rotate pretty easily (including mine), but I was also getting feedback saying it would start slipping.
The Markforged printer we bought at work ~6 years ago could be upgraded to reinforce the nylon base filament with either continuous fiberglass or continuous carbon fiber material - IIRC the carbon fiber had strength similar to aluminum. (No experience with it, we just bought the basic model)
 
The Markforged printer we bought at work ~6 years ago could be upgraded to reinforce the nylon base filament with either continuous fiberglass or continuous carbon fiber material - IIRC the carbon fiber had strength similar to aluminum. (No experience with it, we just bought the basic model)
Yeah, we had Markforged on-site a few years ago to demo their parts. The technology was impressive, but at the time, the material was quite expensive, and the printing process was relatively slow. Im curious if they now offer printing services with that machine.. it could be worth exploring since the gears are small and likely more affordable. I appreciate you bringing this back to my attention. I wanted to make the hammer spring tool work, but I’ve been tied up with other designs, and this time of year is especially busy. I really don’t want to send them out if they aren’t 100%. I will see what I can find regarding printing them with continuous fiber. That’s a good thought!